Thursday, July 2, 2026
On the way to Hotel Canoe in Banff, where we planned to spend two nights, I intended to stop at Wild Flower Bakery to purchase the next day's packable lunch. Once we reached Banff, traffic was extremely heavy, so I dropped off Alex and Inna nearby so they could order pastries and sandwiches while I looked for parking.
From there, we drove to Hotel Canoe, parking at the front and checking in at the front desk. We were assigned room #546 in building B. We were also given freshly ground coffee with cream and various teas for our pour-over system in our room.
The pour-over coffee process is quite simple (but as I still prefer the Italian Mocha Pot for making coffee):
Pour-Over Coffee Process
- Put the paper filter inside the metal filter
- Put the ground coffee in the paper filter
- Boil a container of water
- Pour boiling water over the beans and wait 30 seconds
- Continue pouring until the canister is full
Once in the room, we unloaded our bags and decided to get ready for the hike to the nearby, spectacular Tunnel Mountain. The trailhead was nearby, and we parked our Hyundai Kona (in the last remaining parking space) at around 18:15.
Since Banff is at a latitude of 51 degrees north, it has much longer summer days than nights. In July, though the sun rises at 05:30, it sets at 22:00. Thus, we have maximum daylight during the summer months.
As we started our upward hike on the Tunnel Mountain trail, we were not worried about returning in the dark. The hike had a steep ascent, and we stopped a few times for rest. However, it's not a long hike, and we quickly reached the top (in less than an hour).
Tunnel Mountain Trail Overview
Distance: ~4.5 to 4.8 km (2.8 to 3 miles) out-and-back.
Elevation Gain: ~260 meters (850 feet).
Time: 1.5 to 2 hours round trip (though quick packers or runners often do it in an hour).
Difficulty: Rated as Easy to Moderate. Parks Canada classifies it as moderate due to the steady uphill incline, but because the trail is exceptionally well-graded and free of technical scrambling, it is highly approachable for beginners and families.While climbing the trail, we marveled at the sweeping, majestic views of the surrounding Canadian Rockies. Inna even managed to spot a red fox and take a photo. I was too slow with my Nikon P1100.
- Appetizer: Butterleaf Lettuce, Doughnuts
- Main: 25oz Blue Dot Ribeye
- Sides: Mushrooms, Potato Puree, Grilled Cabbage
- Drinks: Haskap Berry Cider
Friday, July 3, 2026
We did not sleep well during the night - perhaps the late steak dinner at the Bluebird Woodfired Steakhouse was difficult to digest. I woke up at 02:00 and again at 04:00, and had difficulty falling back asleep.
I got up at 05:45 to take a shower and get ready. At around 06:15, I decided to make the pour-over coffee, filling up my thermos to its full 24 oz. I packed all our sandwiches, ice packs, and cream into the portable Igloo. When everyone was ready, we loaded up our car and headed for Johnston Canyon (about 30 minutes away). We were worried that the small parking lot there would fill up, and we wanted to arrive in time for our hike.
Fortunately, we arrived at 07:15, and the parking lot was mostly empty. We parked our Hyundai Kona and put on our hiking gear. I had to borrow Alex's belt so that I could attach the can of Bear Spray to it. I also had my Nikon P1100 camera and the small hiking pack (which had my lunch, snack bars, mosquito repellent, and sunblock).
I poured the freshly made coffee from the thermos into a cup (and added cream). I shared the cup with Alex and Inna, and we took turns drinking it (we forgot to bring additional paper cups). After finishing eating our banana bread (our breakfast!), we got ready for the hike. Initially, I thought of bringing my heavier Lululemon jacket, but it turned out it wasn't as cold as expected.
As we started the hike at around 08:00, there was already a line of people heading uphill toward the Lower Waterfall. After about 30 minutes, we had reached it and took many beautiful photos. The whole area was spectacular, and we really enjoyed it.
At the Lower Waterfall, across the narrow bridge, there is a narrow rock tunnel with very little space, so only a few people (perhaps 3-4) can fit comfortably inside. The tunnel opens onto an amazing close-up view of the waterfall (but the mist & spray coming off it are heavy), and one gets soaked quite easily. Inna and I took a few photos before leaving the tunnel, and I bumped my head on the low ceiling.
We continued on the trail toward the Upper Waterfall. We spent some time taking beautiful photos from the many viewpoints of this spectacular waterfall.
We continued the hike for another hour to the Ink Pots. The trail was far less busy now, and we rarely encountered any other hikers. Once we reached the Ink Pots, we found them quite intriguing, and the surrounding mountains were amazing as well.
We unpacked our bags and decided to eat an early lunch on a used bench (there were many benches throughout the Ink Pots). Alex and I shared a burrito, and I also ate both of my energy bars (RXBAR Honey Cinnamon Peanut Butter & Chocolate Sea Salt).
Johnston Canyon is one of the most spectacular, dramatic, and heavily visited day hikes in Banff National Park. Located about 30 minutes west of the Banff townsite along the scenic Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A), it takes you deep into a limestone canyon carved over millennia by rushing water.
What makes it unique is its engineering: a series of steel catwalks and cantilevered walkways are bolted directly into the sheer canyon walls, suspended right over the roaring Johnston Creek.
The Hike Breakdown
The trail functions as a series of progressive checkpoints, allowing you to choose how far you want to go.
Logistics & Planning Strategy
To the Lower Falls
Distance: 2.4 km (1.5 miles) round trip
Elevation Gain: ~30 meters (100 feet)
Time: 1 hour
The Experience: This section is wide, paved, and exceptionally gentle. The highlight is a small, natural rock tunnel that you can walk through to stand on a viewing platform just feet away from the roaring Lower Falls—expect to get caught in the misty spray!
To the Upper Falls
Distance: 5.0 km (3.1 miles) round trip
Elevation Gain: ~120 meters (394 feet)
Time: 2 to 2.5 hours
The Experience: Beyond the Lower Falls, the trail turns into a more traditional dirt and rugged path, continuing upward via steep staircases and catwalks. It ends at a dramatic 30-meter-high (98-foot) waterfall, which features two viewing angles: one from a bottom platform looking up, and another steep trail leading to a platform looking right over the crest.
To the Ink Pots
Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles) round trip
Elevation Gain: ~335 meters (1,100 feet)
Time: 4 hours
The Experience: If you want a true hike that escapes the crowds, continue past the Upper Falls.
The trail leaves the canyon entirely, ascending through a dense pine forest before opening up into a stunning, tranquil mountain meadow. Here, you'll find the Ink Pots: five unique, mineral-rich, greenish-blue spring pools that continuously bubble up from the ground.
What to Bring
Parking vs. Transit: Because over 700,000 people visit a year, the two parking lots (P1 and P2) routinely fill up completely by 8:30 or 9:00 AM during the summer. Roadside parking is strictly prohibited.
The smartest move is to take the Roam Public Transit (Route 9) directly from the Banff townsite, which drops you off right at the trailhead and saves you the parking headache. Crucial Trail Etiquette: Johnston Canyon is a critical nesting habitat for the Black Swift, an endangered bird species that builds nests on the canyon's wet, mossy cliffs.
Because of this, off-trail use is strictly prohibited by Parks Canada. Going off-path or stepping past the railings into the canyon bed can carry massive fines up to $25,000.
Good Footwear: While the path to the Lower Falls is paved, it can be wet and slick from the waterfall spray. Sturdy trail shoes or hiking boots with solid traction are highly recommended.
Bear Spray: Even though the canyon itself is heavily trafficked and noisy, it cuts through prime wildlife corridors along the Bow Valley Parkway. If you plan on pushing past the waterfalls toward the quieter Ink Pots trail, carrying bear spray is an absolute necessity.
From the Ink Pots, we returned to our car, the same way we came, though we encountered a very heavy surge of hikers heading toward us from the parking lot. Being early really helps! We were exceedingly happy to have started hiking the Johnston Trail much earlier, thus avoiding the large (Disneyland) crowd.
Once we returned to our car, we rested a bit and drank the remaining coffee. We started our drive to our next destination - Lake Minnewanka. The direct road there was closed, so we had to take a detour.
Arriving at Lake Minnewanka, we parked our car and inquired about boating activities. There were canoes and powerboats for rent, as well as an hourly boat cruise.
We purchased the hourly boat cruise for 15:00. The tickets were quite expensive - 90 Canadian dollars per person (for a measly 1-hour cruise).
The Lake Minnewanka Boat Cruise is the only motorized boat tour permitted within Banff National Park, taking you across the largest and deepest lake in the park. Known as Minn-waki ("Water of the Spirits") by the Stoney Nakoda people, the lake is surrounded by massive peaks and holds a fascinating history—including a completely submerged turn-of-the-century resort village hidden beneath its glacial waters.
The cruise takes you deep into the lake's dramatic vertical channel, culminating at Devil’s Gap, a striking opening where the rugged Rocky Mountains abruptly meet the flat Alberta prairies.
The boat cruise was ok - both Alex and I had fallen asleep due to the slow rocking motion of the boat and our general tiredness from the hike.
After the cruise, we returned to our Hotel Canoe for a bit of rest. I decided to take a shower and relax for a bit, while Inna decided to check out the coffee shop/restaurant in the lobby of our Hotel Canoe. She found some delicious pastries, including the Portuguese specialty - Pastel de Nata.
At around 17:45, we got dressed for dinner at the nearby Farm & Fire restaurant. We parked nearby (paying $12/hour) and were quickly seated inside.
We ordered the following items:
- Appetizers: Heirloom Salad
- Main: Chicken Pizza, Duck Duo
- Sides: Mashed Potatoes
- Drinks: Haskap Cider
- Dessert: Cowboy Cookie
Saturday, July 4, 2026
Happy 250th Independence Day!
Unlike during previous days, we got a good night's sleep and woke at 07:00 refreshed. I took a shower, shaved, and made fresh pour-over coffee, filling the 24-oz Thermos. I started packing my suitcase, but did not finish before we went downstairs to eat breakfast.
Inna and Alex walked to Hotel Canoe's restaurants, where Inna ordered Italian sandwiches for takeout (to eat during their hike later in the day). Alex got a table for us at the Sudden Sally restaurant, where we ordered the following items for breakfast:
- Drinks: 3 x cappuccinos
- Boris: Spinach Tomato Benny (2 poached eggs with potatoes)
- Inna: The Breakfast Croissant
- Alex: Salmon Benny (2 poached eggs with potatoes)
Banff Trip Report
Highlights
- Savoring amazing views of the Canadian Rockies and Banff during our Tunnel Mountain hike
- Hiking past multiple waterfalls and ink pots during our Johnston Canyon hike
- Touring the beautiful Lake Minnewanka by boat
- Dining at Farm & Fire restaurant in downtown Banff
- Enjoying a delicious breakfast at Sudden Sally (Hotel Canoe's restaurant)
Lowlights
- Heavy traffic in downtown Banff (with a lot of construction making it worse). Parking is a nightmare.
- Heavy crowds at Johnston Canyon (parking can be difficult)
- Lots of mosquitoes, flies, and other insects at Vermilion Lakes and most other places
- High prices in restaurants and hotels
Links
0 comments:
Post a Comment