Hiking Path of the Gods

Inna originally booked a boat tour for my birthday, but an unfavorable marine forecast necessitated rescheduling. Instead, we decided to hike the world-famous Path of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei).

We woke up at 7:00 a.m., showered, and walked to our favorite Gentile Cafe for a quick Italian breakfast of pastries and cappuccinos. I also stopped by the nearby Deutsche Bank to withdraw 200.00 euros for a taxi (which came in handy later).

We stopped by a grocery store to purchase 2 sizeable 1.5-liter water bottles (as recommended on the hike) and walked to the taxi stand near our Bed and Breakfast on Viale Enrico Caruso. Since this was a last-minute decision, we couldn't secure transfers to Agerola.

The taxi driver we spoke to said the fare would be between 195 and 205 euros, and we hesitated because of the high price. However, we decided to proceed anyway, as this was a last-minute opportunity to complete a fantastic hike.

We boarded the taxi and set off on our drive from Sorrento to Agerola. Overall, it took about 70 minutes, from 9:00 a.m. to 10:10 a.m. With light rain falling, I worried we would get soaked during the upcoming 3-hour hike. When we arrived, the overall taxi cost was 210 euros.

Once we arrived at Agerola, we found a nearby hiking store, Magici Sentieri, where we purchased light, inexpensive rain gear for Inna and me. I also bought a small, light Columbia backpack for water bottles and sandwiches.

We also stopped by a nearby coffee shop to warm up with fresh coffee and pastries. We also picked up 2 sandwiches for the hike (which we did not eat).

We started our hike along the coast at 11:00, with beautiful views. 

On the hike, we encountered groups of people, most of whom were moving quite fast. Some portions of the hike required scrambling over rocks. Although it was recommended to bring 1.5 liters of water per person, I did not drink any, as the temperature was a reasonable 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

We reached Nocelle at around 14:00. We first stopped by a small eatery and sat down. However, after getting no service, we grew impatient and left.

We continued walking around Nocelle until we ran into Rifugio Dei Mele's restaurant. The outdoor views were terrific, but there were lots of mosquitoes and bees flying around. We sat down and ordered the following items for a light lunch (although we had 2 sandwiches with us):

• Boris: Insalata Caprese
• Inna: Prosciutto e bufala
• Drinks: 2 Cappuccinos
• Dessert: Tiramisu

My Caprese salad was tiny but delicious. Inna shared some of her prosciutto from her Prosciutto e bufala salad with me. The Tiramisu was terrific. In addition, the bread was excellent, and the yellow olive oil was the best we've ever tasted. I don't recall seeing any Olive Oil this yellow (or this delicious). The local "Case Mele" Olive Oil was fabulous.

At the end of Nocelle, we also purchased some lemon drinks from Lemon Point Positano. They were very refreshing. There was an excellent place to eat our sandwiches, but we were full.

From Nocelle, we walked 1700+ steps down to Positano and continued through the old town until we reached the ferry dock; we purchased one-way ferry tickets to Sorrento (15.00 euros/person) for the 17:05 sailing.

Our small ferry arrived at 17:07, and we quickly boarded. The ferry was packed, and there was nowhere to sit inside or on the top floor, so we sat at the bow. On the way to Sorrento, the seas became a bit choppy, and we started getting splashed by sea spray. Both Inna and I put on our rain jackets, which helped keep us dry.

We docked in Sorrento at 18:00 and immediately walked back to our hotel. Inna had a special Birthday dinner booked for me and wanted to shower and rest before dining.

Path of the Gods Hike Report

Highlights

• Amazing views of the Amalfi Coast from the hike
• Beautiful views of Positano
• Delicious lunch at Rifugio Dei Mele in Nocelle

Lowlights

• High cost of getting to Agerola by taxi. In the future, it may be better to take the train to Castellammare di Stabia and take a bus or taxi to Agerola.
• The last ferry to Sorrento was at 17:05 (hoping for a later ferry time)