Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Enjoying Mývatn Spa & Waterfalls, Iceland (July 30)

Wednesday, July 30, 2025  , ,  No comments

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Starting: Wilderness Center, Egilstaðir, Iceland
Ending: Hótel Edda Akureyri, Akureyri, Iceland
Highlights: Rjúkandi Waterfall, Stuðlagil Canyon, Mývatn Nature Baths, Godafoss Waterfall, Akureyri downtown, Akureyrarkirkja, Dinner at Rub23

Happy Birthday, Alex!

Our Wilderness Center accommodations were fairly spartan, but they were comfortable and not too hot or cold (we had the windows open at night), though you could hear the sound of sheep (which were numerous and spread out throughout the area). There was a common room filled with ancient knick-knacks, like an old broken piano and old posters (reminding us of the way things were).

After taking a shower and getting dressed, we swung by the nearby dining hall, where a breakfast buffet was prepared for us. The breakfast buffet offered a limited variety, so I chose boiled eggs, pancakes, and coffee. Usually, I prefer eating plain Skyr with granola or scrambled eggs, but these were not available.

At 08:00, we loaded the mini-bus with our luggage and started our long drive to Akureyri (with many stops planned in between).

We drove by the Fljótsdalur Waterfall (I would have liked to have stopped to take a photo, but we were in a hurry). We continued the drive past the large Hydro Power station (where electricity is generated for heavy industry).

Our guide, Bjorn, also mentioned that Gunnar Gunnarsson was born in this area and pointed out his humble home.
Gunnar Gunnarsson (1889–1975) was one of Iceland’s most prominent authors in the early 20th century, known for his novels, short stories, and poetry that often explored themes of rural life, isolation, and human resilience in Iceland’s harsh landscapes.

Gunnarsson’s works blend Icelandic folklore, nature, and spirituality with modern narrative styles. Some of his most famous include:

  • Guest the One-Eyed (1912) – His first major novel, about a lonely wanderer in rural Iceland.

  • The Good Shepherd (Advent) (1936) – Perhaps his best-known work internationally. Follows Benedikt, a shepherd who endures a perilous winter journey in search of lost sheep; a meditation on endurance and faith.

  • Ships in the Sky (1938) – A story exploring rural Icelandic life confronting modernization.

  • The Black Cliffs (1923) – A murder mystery set against Iceland’s rugged coasts.

  • Seven Days’ Darkness (1927) – A dystopian novel involving a volcanic eruption plunging Iceland into chaos.

We drove by a stunning Hengifoss waterfall, but better viewing would have required hiking (for which we did not have time). Next time, we need to hike to Hengifoss for a close-up view.

Bjorn told us about the legend of Lagarfljótsormurinn, also known as the Lagarfljót Worm. It’s a cryptid said to inhabit Lagarfljót, a lake near Egilsstaðir in East Iceland, and is often compared to Scotland’s Loch Ness Monster.

The Folktale

A well-known story explains the creature’s origins:

  • A girl placed a golden ring on a small slug or worm and set it in a chest, believing it would make the gold grow.

  • When she returned later, the worm had grown huge, filling the chest. Frightened, she threw it into the lake, where it continued to live and grow—becoming Lagarfljótsormurinn.

Sightings

  • Sightings have been reported over the centuries, especially in the 18th and 19th centuries, often associated with impending disasters such as floods or earthquakes.

  • In 2012, a video surfaced showing what appeared to be a serpent-like creature swimming in Lagarfljót. It went viral, but skeptics argued it was likely a floating net or ice.

Cultural Significance

  • The monster is deeply tied to local identity and folklore in East Iceland.

  • It has been featured in Icelandic literature, tales, and even modern tourism campaigns.

  • In 2012, the Egilsstaðir council jokingly declared the video “authentic,” awarding a bounty to the filmer.

Skepticism

  • Scientists attribute sightings to floating ice, plant debris, or optical illusions caused by currents in the glacial lake, whose murky waters make it impossible to see beneath the surface.

  • Still, locals and tourists enjoy the mystery, keeping the legend alive.

There was an attempt by the government to develop forestry in eastern Iceland, and various tree types were planted to determine which grows best in the harsh Icelandic climate. It turned out that Siberian larch grows best, and many were planted to help with reforestation. They are now being farmed, but they are still not as numerous as desired. Most of Iceland is quite barren, and only parts of Iceland can grow trees (during the short growing season in the summer).

We drove by the Golfklúbbur Fljótsdalshéraðs golf course, which is popular in this area. 

According to Bjorn, the best weather is in East Iceland, and we were definitely experiencing less drizzle and fog (compared to other parts of Iceland).
Best Trees for Growing in Iceland

✅ Native and Naturalized Trees

  1. Downy Birch (Betula pubescens)

    • The only native forest tree in Iceland.

    • Hardy, small to medium-sized.

    • Tolerates wind and poor soils well.

  2. Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia)

    • Also called mountain ash.

    • Naturally found in some parts of Iceland.

    • Attractive red berries and good cold tolerance.

✅ Introduced Species That Thrive

  1. Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis)

    • Fast-growing conifer from North America.

    • Excellent for timber and shelterbelts.

    • Grows well in coastal areas, but can be invasive.

  2. Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta)

    • Very wind-resistant.

    • Common in afforestation projects.

    • Grows well in acidic and volcanic soils.

  3. Norway Spruce (Picea abies)

    • Used for windbreaks and Christmas trees.

    • Does well in milder Icelandic regions.

  4. Siberian Larch (Larix sibirica)

    • Deciduous conifer that withstands extreme cold.

    • Fast-growing and used in reforestation.

  5. Black Cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa)

    • One of the fastest-growing species in Iceland.

    • Popular in urban areas and for erosion control.

  6. Russian Bird Cherry (Prunus padus)

    • Hardy ornamental tree.

    • Small, with white flowers in spring.

🌱 Growing Conditions in Iceland

  • Soil: Volcanic, often poor in nutrients but well-drained.

  • Wind: Shelter from wind is essential for young trees.

  • Climate: Cool summers, cold winters, and short growing seasons.

  • Light: Long summer days help boost growth.

🌳 Forest Development in Iceland

  • Forest cover was <1% in early 20th century.

  • Now expanding through national planting programs like Skógræktin (The Icelandic Forest Service).

  • Popular planting areas include Egilsstaðir (East Iceland) and regions around Akureyri and Reykjavík.

We continued our drive past Glacial Valley, passing numerous waterfalls. It would have been impossible to stop at each one to take a photo. It's truly an amazing site. We did stop by Rjúkandi Waterfall and managed to take a few photos.

The weather in Iceland is ever-changing, from sunshine to rain and back again within minutes. One has to be dressed in layers and be ready to put on or take off layers of clothes to stay dry and comfortable.

Our next major stop was at the Stuðlagil Canyon Viewpoint. It's a truly stunning canyon, which Inna and I tried to photograph during our limited time (30 minutes). We could have easily spent a few hours here, as the views were magnificent. One person was launching a drone (probably to show a different perspective).

From here, we drove to Möðrudalur/Fjalladýrð (a small local farm) for a short rest and to see the farm's animals. This particular farm had a domesticated, friendly Reindeer, which both Inna and I petted. His skin was so soft, and he behaved like a well-trained puppy. I was also hoping to see an Arctic fox, but she was not there. Outside the farm, there was a very old, tiny Church that was also quite photogenic, and we took multiple photos. 

For a quick snack, Inna and I ordered the following items from the farm's cafe:
  • Coffee x 2
  • Happy Marriage Cake (kaka)
Our next destination was the Mývatn Nature Baths, where we would spend 90 minutes relaxing (and eating lunch). 

Unlike the Sky Lagoon Hot Spring Spa near Reykjavik, Mývatn Nature Baths had a very strong sulphuric odor (rotten egg smell), which didn't appeal to me. Depending on which way the wind blew, the rotten egg smell could alternate from being hardly noticeable to unbearable.

Floating in the thermally heated pools was still very enjoyable, and Myvatn had both cooler and warmer pools connected together, so one could swim to different parts of the pool to warm up or cool off. Both Inna and I enjoyed relaxing in the thermal pools, especially after so many hours of driving in a cramped mini-bus.

After relaxing for an hour, we rushed to change back into our dry clothes and eat lunch. There was a long line for lunch (and most food was pre-packaged; there was little prepared fresh).  We selected the following items:
  • Boris: Roast Beef Sandwich (on a bagel), mocha
  • Inna: Salad, berry pie, cappuccino
The roast beef sandwich was ok, but the freshly baked berry pie was better than expected.

After everyone returned to the mini-bus, we continued our drive to Lava Field Dimmuborgir.
We had a short, 30-minute walk along a path lined with lava formations, and some were very photogenic. We took lots of photos and marvelled at the complex structures. Thirty minutes here was barely enough to cover all of the interesting formations.

Our drive continued past Myvatn Craters, stopping briefly at Lake Myvatn. Our guide warned us about the extremely aggressive "my" flies, but we didn't believe him until we exited the bus to take photos of fishermen, fly-fishing for trout in Lake Myvatn.
In Iceland, when people talk about “my flies” or “mýflugur” (Icelandic: mý), they’re usually referring to biting midges or non-biting midges—tiny flying insects that can be a nuisance, especially in summer near lakes and wetlands.
The flies were a real menace, biting and buzzing around incessantly, and I now understood why so many anti-insect repellents were sold at various Icelandic mini-markets. I couldn't understand how fishermen fished with these pesky insects around (or how campers avoid them).

Our next major stop was the incredibly impressive Godafoss Waterfall (meaning: Waterfall of the Gods). It's a smaller version of Niagara Falls and just as impressive.

Godafoss Facts

  • Height: ~12 meters (39 feet)

  • Width: ~30 meters (98 feet)

  • Shape: Horseshoe-shaped, similar to a smaller version of Niagara Falls.

  • Surrounded by dramatic lava fields and turquoise waters from the Skjálfandafljót River, which originates from the Icelandic Highlands.

We continued the final leg of our drive with an early arrival in Akureyri. Bjorn was planning our arrival at 18:30, but we disembarked almost an hour earlier at 17:30. 

We checked into Hótel Edda Akureyri (which also serves as a dorm for Akureyri Junior College) during the academic season and dropped off our luggage in the room. The room was quite large and spacious with large windows and a nice view of the lawn. It would have been a very nice dorm room!

Initially, we wanted to eat an early dinner and decided to stop by Aurora Restaurant. Even though we were there quite early, all the tables were booked (the restaurant looked empty). We were surprised that the staff could not find us a table. As a precaution, we made a reservation for 20:30 (but ended up not needing it), and decided to explore the nearby Akureyri Botanical Gardens.

The Botanical Gardens were very nice, and not overly large, and we strolled around, taking lots of photos. We noticed one of the cruise ships departing and took lots of photos. Akureyri is a very popular cruise port (as we saw cruise ships docked each day we were there).

From the Akureyri Botanical Gardens, we walked to Akureyri downtown, following freshly painted houses. Akureyri looks very well-maintained and well-run. We enjoyed strolling by the bookstores and restaurants.

We heard from our guide (and ChatGPT) that Rub23 restaurant was one of the very best in town, and I figured that there would be no chance of getting a table there (without booking ahead of time). Inna and I walked in at around 18:30 to try to get a table, anyway.

Shockingly, we were asked to wait, and were eventually seated! It was a wonderful, pleasant surprise (especially after being turned down by Aurora earlier). After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items (basically, the chef's summer menu):
  • Boris: Summer Menu (Hamachi, Salmon)
  • Inna: Summer Menu (Hamachi, Lamb)
The sushi, lamb, and salmon were all exceptional, and we really enjoyed our delicious dinner. It was expensive (just over $200 for two people) but exceptional.

After dinner, we walked to the shore and discovered a classic European car show/meetup. We took photos of a few classic European cars. I recognized the VW Beetle and a few other makes, but others were completely unknown to me.

We walked back to our hotel to rest and relax, briefly stopping at the beautiful Akureyrarkirkja (the main church), to take photos.

My wife wrote the following about the day's encounter:
Вчера мы гуляли в очень красивом базальтовом каньоне, потом заехали на симпатичную ферму где вкусно попили кофейку, познакомились с практически ручным оленем, потом купались в натуральных геотермальных источниках, после этого небольшой хайк в полях лавы с причудливыми каменными структурами и пещерами, потом еще один потрясающий водопад. Вечером приехали в очень симпатичный городок Акьюрери, который находится на берегу самого длинного фьорда в Исландии (около 60 километров). Там сходили в небольшой, но очень милый ботанический сад, очень вкусно поужинали и погуляли по городу, там набрели на тусовку автолюбителей antique cars, в общем день удался! 

Day Review (July 30)

Highlights

Lowlights
  • Swatting away pesky "my" flies on Lake Myvatn
  • Missing out on photos and hiking opportunities to Hengifoss waterfall
  • Spending too much time at rest stops

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