Friday, August 1, 2025
Start: Hótel Laugarbakki, Iceland
The Gamli sáttmáli (“Old Covenant”) of 1262–1264, marked the end of Iceland’s independent commonwealth period and brought the country under the rule of the Norwegian crown.
📜 Background
From 930 to 1262, Iceland operated as a commonwealth (Þjóðveldið Ísland)—a unique system with no king and no central executive power.
The Althing (parliament) made laws, and local chieftains (goðar) enforced them.
By the 13th century, Iceland fell into Sturlungaöld (“The Age of the Sturlungs”)—a violent period of clan warfare among powerful families.
Trade dependence on Norway (especially for essentials like timber and grain) gave the Norwegian king leverage.
🤝 The Old Covenant (Gamli sáttmáli)
Year signed: 1262 (completed by 1264 across all districts).
Icelanders agreed to swear allegiance to King Haakon IV of Norway.
In return, the king promised:
Fair trade rights and stable prices.
Legal protection and continuation of the Icelandic legal system.
Respect for some local autonomy, with the Althing still functioning.
😒 Popularity & Controversy
While it was framed as a mutual agreement, many Icelanders saw it as a surrender.
Some chieftains welcomed it to end civil war and secure trade stability.
Others resented losing independence and feared royal interference.
Over time, Norway’s promises—especially about fair prices—were often broken.
By the 14th century, Iceland’s autonomy eroded further, and in 1380, it passed under Danish rule via the Kalmar Union.
📌 Historical Impact
Ended the Icelandic commonwealth after more than 300 years.
Integrated Iceland into the Norwegian realm for over a century.
Seen by some historians as a pragmatic choice in crisis, but by others as a loss of sovereignty under pressure.
The name “Barnafoss” means “Waterfall of the Children” and comes from an old Icelandic folktale:
Long ago, a stone arch bridge—naturally formed—crossed the river above the falls.
One Christmas Day, the adults went to church, leaving two children at home.
Bored, the children went out to play and tried crossing the stone arch.
They slipped and fell into the churning waters below, drowning in the gorge.
Their devastated mother cursed the bridge, saying no one would ever cross it again without perishing.
Shortly afterward, an earthquake destroyed the stone arch, ensuring her curse came true.
In Reykholt, we stopped by to see the Gamla Kirkjan (church). We also stopped by the bookstore and discovered excellent, illustrated editions of the children's books on the Yule Lads.
The Yule Lads (Jólasveinar) are Iceland’s delightfully oddball Christmas characters — part pranksters, part gift-givers, and fully rooted in old Icelandic folklore.
Origins
They began as frightening troll-like figures in the 17th–18th centuries, intended to scare misbehaving children into behaving before Christmas.
Over time, they softened into mischievous, comical personalities — somewhat like Iceland’s answer to Santa’s elves, but with their own eccentric charm.
They are the sons of two terrifying trolls, Grýla (a child-snatcher who supposedly ate naughty children) and Leppalúði (her lazy, not-so-bright husband).
They live in the mountains and come down to human homes during the holiday season.
Modern Tradition
There are 13 Yule Lads, each with a distinct personality, name, and preferred prank.
They arrive one by one on the 13 nights before Christmas (December 12–24) and depart in the same order after Christmas, so by January 6, they’re all gone.
Well-behaved children leave a shoe in the window; each night’s visiting Lad leaves a small gift in the shoe.
Naughty children might get… a raw potato.
The 13 Yule Lads and Their Habits
Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod) – Harasses sheep, has stiff legs.
Giljagaur (Gully Gawk) – Hides in gullies, steals milk from cows.
Stúfur (Stubby) – Very short, steals pans for food scraps.
Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker) – Licks wooden spoons clean.
Pottaskefill (Pot-Scraper) – Scrapes leftovers from pots.
Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker) – Hides under beds, snatches bowls of food.
Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer) – Slams doors, especially at night.
Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler) – Devours Icelandic skyr (yogurt).
Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper) – Steals sausages being smoked.
Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper) – Peeks in windows looking for things to steal.
Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer) – Has an enormous nose, loves leaf bread (laufabrauð).
Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook) – Snags meat with a hook.
Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer) – Follows children to steal candles (once valuable in Iceland).
Fun Facts
The modern Yule Lads were “softened” in the 20th century, influenced by Santa Claus traditions.
They still retain their quirky Icelandic humor — they’re not perfect gift-givers, but they’re far less menacing than their parents.
Grýla and her giant Christmas Cat (Jólakötturinn) remain part of the tradition — the cat supposedly eats those who don’t get new clothes for Christmas.
Calendar
Date (Arrival) Yule Lad Mischief Leaves Dec 12 Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod) Harasses sheep, stiff wooden legs Dec 25 Dec 13 Giljagaur (Gully Gawk) Hides in gullies, steals cow’s milk Dec 26 Dec 14 Stúfur (Stubby) Short, steals pans for food scraps Dec 27 Dec 15 Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker) Licks wooden spoons clean Dec 28 Dec 16 Pottaskefill (Pot-Scraper) Scrapes leftovers from pots Dec 29 Dec 17 Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker) Hides under beds, snatches bowls Dec 30 Dec 18 Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer) Slams doors at night Dec 31 Dec 19 Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler) Devours Icelandic yogurt Jan 1 Dec 20 Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper) Steals sausages from smokehouses Jan 2 Dec 21 Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper) Peeks in windows for things to steal Jan 3 Dec 22 Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer) Huge nose, loves leaf bread Jan 4 Dec 23 Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook) Steals meat with a hook Jan 5 Dec 24 Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer) Follows children to steal candles Jan 6
In modern Iceland, kids leave a shoe in the window each night.
If they’ve been good, they get sweets or small gifts.
If naughty, they might find a raw potato.
By Christmas Eve, all 13 are in town, causing chaos (and giving presents), and by January 6, they’ve all gone back to the mountains.
Our next stop was the Sturlureykir Visiting Horse Farm. We were first shown a short movie about Icelandic horses and their unique capabilities of 5 natural gaits.
What Makes Icelandic Horses Unique
Pure Bloodline for Over 1,000 Years
The Vikings brought their ancestors to Iceland in the late 9th–10th century.
Importing horses has been banned for centuries, so no new bloodlines have been introduced — meaning Icelandic horses today are direct descendants of those first Viking horses.
Once an Icelandic horse leaves the country, it can never return (to protect against disease).
Five Natural Gaits (Most horses have only three)
Walk
Trot
Canter/Gallop
Tölt – A smooth, four-beat gait that lets the rider travel long distances without bouncing in the saddle. This is the signature Icelandic gait.
Flying Pace (skeið) – A high-speed, two-beat gait used for short bursts in races.
Small but Strong
Height: 13–14 hands (pony-sized), but Icelanders insist they’re horses.
Incredibly sturdy and able to carry full-grown adults over rough terrain.
Hardy and Weatherproof
Evolved to survive Iceland’s harsh winters on limited grazing.
Thick double-layer coat in winter, which they shed for a sleeker summer look.
Remarkably Friendly and Intelligent
Known for curiosity and a calm temperament.
Often walk right up to people, especially if they think you have snacks.
Cultural Icons
Appear in Icelandic sagas, poetry, and art.
Still widely used for farm work, sheep herding, and leisure riding — not just tourism.
Upon finally returning to Reykjavik, we have circumnavigated Iceland, driving over a total of 2,150 km in six days.
We were dropped off at Hotel Island (our previous hotel in Reykjavik). Since we had to catch an early flight to Edinburgh the next day, we ordered a taxi for 5:30 the next day.
Since we still had energy left, we decided to get some additional exercise and walked to Reykjavik. I had made dinner reservations for 18:0 at Forréttabarinn (a highly rated restaurant). After sitting down, we ordered the 4-course tasting menu:
- Fly fish
- Lamb
- Beer
Once in our hotel room, we packed everything, showered, and prepared for an early departure.
Day Review (August 1)
Highlights
- Seeing amazing waterfalls:
- Visiting Sturlureykir, Visiting Horse Farm, and feeding hay to Icelandic horses
- Visiting Bjorn's beautiful home, meeting Linda, and her golden retriever
- Tasting white wine
- Learning about the 13 Yule Lads and the unique Icelandic Christmas tradition
- Dining at Forréttabarinn in Reykjavik
- Unrelenting, cold, gusty wind in Reykjavik
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