Friday, August 1, 2025

Horses & Waterfalls, Iceland (August 1)

Friday, August 1, 2025

StartHótel Laugarbakki, Iceland

End: Hotel Island, Reykjavik, Iceland
Highlights: Glanni Waterfall, Barnafoss Waterfall, Bjorn's Home

I can't believe it's already August 1st! Time sure flies when you're on vacation.

After waking up, taking a shower, and packing our suitcases. At 07:37, we stopped by for breakfast in the big dining room at Hótel Laugarbakki. Unfortunately, the dining room was packed and there were no free tables. We waited and eventually found a table to sit down. 

I picked up a hard-boiled egg and Skyr yogurt from the breakfast buffet along with a couple of pastries and crackers. It was a mediocre breakfast, and I didn't like any of the pastries. We checked out of Hótel Laugarbakki (I had already paid for the previous day's dinner on Thursday) and returned our room keys.

At 08:30, we loaded our luggage onto the Mercedes mini-bus and began our final drive to Reykjavik. On the way, we passed Hrútafjörður, entering West Iceland.

We stopped at the Glanni Waterfall, near a golf course, and took a group photo. In our group photo, we have: Ashley, Pam, Carol, Bjorn, Matthew, Christine, Boris, and Inna. This was a beautiful waterfall (but not as impressive as many of the others we have seen recently, like Godafoss).

We continued our drive, stopping at another service station for restrooms and snacks. Bjorn warned us that we may not have enough time for a long lunch, and we decided to purchase some energy bars and sandwiches.

As we continued the drive, we crossed the biggest agricultural area of Iceland - Borgarfjardabraut. Bjorn showed us Hótel Varmaland, which supports a hydroponic cucumber farm year-round. 

Bjorn tried to explain the very unpopular handing off of Iceland, in 1262, to Norway:

The Gamli sáttmáli (“Old Covenant”) of 1262–1264, marked the end of Iceland’s independent commonwealth period and brought the country under the rule of the Norwegian crown.


📜 Background
  • From 930 to 1262, Iceland operated as a commonwealth (Þjóðveldið Ísland)—a unique system with no king and no central executive power.

  • The Althing (parliament) made laws, and local chieftains (goðar) enforced them.

  • By the 13th century, Iceland fell into Sturlungaöld (“The Age of the Sturlungs”)—a violent period of clan warfare among powerful families.

  • Trade dependence on Norway (especially for essentials like timber and grain) gave the Norwegian king leverage.


🤝 The Old Covenant (Gamli sáttmáli)
  • Year signed: 1262 (completed by 1264 across all districts).

  • Icelanders agreed to swear allegiance to King Haakon IV of Norway.

  • In return, the king promised:

    • Fair trade rights and stable prices.

    • Legal protection and continuation of the Icelandic legal system.

    • Respect for some local autonomy, with the Althing still functioning.


😒 Popularity & Controversy
  • While it was framed as a mutual agreement, many Icelanders saw it as a surrender.

  • Some chieftains welcomed it to end civil war and secure trade stability.

  • Others resented losing independence and feared royal interference.

  • Over time, Norway’s promises—especially about fair prices—were often broken.

  • By the 14th century, Iceland’s autonomy eroded further, and in 1380, it passed under Danish rule via the Kalmar Union.


📌 Historical Impact
  • Ended the Icelandic commonwealth after more than 300 years.

  • Integrated Iceland into the Norwegian realm for over a century.

  • Seen by some historians as a pragmatic choice in crisis, but by others as a loss of sovereignty under pressure.


Our next stop was the Barnafoss (Children's) Waterfall. It was amazingly beautiful and a highlight of the day. The old Icelandic legend is as follows:

The name “Barnafoss” means “Waterfall of the Children” and comes from an old Icelandic folktale:

  • Long ago, a stone arch bridge—naturally formed—crossed the river above the falls.

  • One Christmas Day, the adults went to church, leaving two children at home.

  • Bored, the children went out to play and tried crossing the stone arch.

  • They slipped and fell into the churning waters below, drowning in the gorge.

  • Their devastated mother cursed the bridge, saying no one would ever cross it again without perishing.

  • Shortly afterward, an earthquake destroyed the stone arch, ensuring her curse came true.


In Reykholt, we stopped by to see the Gamla Kirkjan (church). We also stopped by the bookstore and discovered excellent, illustrated editions of the children's books on the Yule Lads. 
They were too bulky to take with us, but we love the stories:

The Yule Lads (Jólasveinar) are Iceland’s delightfully oddball Christmas characters — part pranksters, part gift-givers, and fully rooted in old Icelandic folklore.

Origins

  • They began as frightening troll-like figures in the 17th–18th centuries, intended to scare misbehaving children into behaving before Christmas.

  • Over time, they softened into mischievous, comical personalities — somewhat like Iceland’s answer to Santa’s elves, but with their own eccentric charm.

  • They are the sons of two terrifying trolls, Grýla (a child-snatcher who supposedly ate naughty children) and Leppalúði (her lazy, not-so-bright husband).

  • They live in the mountains and come down to human homes during the holiday season.

Modern Tradition

  • There are 13 Yule Lads, each with a distinct personality, name, and preferred prank.

  • They arrive one by one on the 13 nights before Christmas (December 12–24) and depart in the same order after Christmas, so by January 6, they’re all gone.

  • Well-behaved children leave a shoe in the window; each night’s visiting Lad leaves a small gift in the shoe.

  • Naughty children might get… a raw potato.

The 13 Yule Lads and Their Habits

  1. Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod) – Harasses sheep, has stiff legs.

  2. Giljagaur (Gully Gawk) – Hides in gullies, steals milk from cows.

  3. Stúfur (Stubby) – Very short, steals pans for food scraps.

  4. Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker) – Licks wooden spoons clean.

  5. Pottaskefill (Pot-Scraper) – Scrapes leftovers from pots.

  6. Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker) – Hides under beds, snatches bowls of food.

  7. Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer) – Slams doors, especially at night.

  8. Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler) – Devours Icelandic skyr (yogurt).

  9. Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper) – Steals sausages being smoked.

  10. Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper) – Peeks in windows looking for things to steal.

  11. Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer) – Has an enormous nose, loves leaf bread (laufabrauð).

  12. Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook) – Snags meat with a hook.

  13. Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer) – Follows children to steal candles (once valuable in Iceland).

Fun Facts

  • The modern Yule Lads were “softened” in the 20th century, influenced by Santa Claus traditions.

  • They still retain their quirky Icelandic humor — they’re not perfect gift-givers, but they’re far less menacing than their parents.

  • Grýla and her giant Christmas Cat (Jólakötturinn) remain part of the tradition — the cat supposedly eats those who don’t get new clothes for Christmas.

Calendar

Date (Arrival)Yule LadMischiefLeaves
Dec 12Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod)Harasses sheep, stiff wooden legsDec 25
Dec 13Giljagaur (Gully Gawk)Hides in gullies, steals cow’s milkDec 26
Dec 14Stúfur (Stubby)Short, steals pans for food scrapsDec 27
Dec 15Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker)Licks wooden spoons cleanDec 28
Dec 16Pottaskefill (Pot-Scraper)Scrapes leftovers from potsDec 29
Dec 17Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker)Hides under beds, snatches bowlsDec 30
Dec 18Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer)Slams doors at nightDec 31
Dec 19Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler)Devours Icelandic yogurtJan 1
Dec 20Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper)Steals sausages from smokehousesJan 2
Dec 21Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper)Peeks in windows for things to stealJan 3
Dec 22Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer)Huge nose, loves leaf breadJan 4
Dec 23Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook)Steals meat with a hookJan 5
Dec 24Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer)Follows children to steal candlesJan 6

In modern Iceland, kids leave a shoe in the window each night.

  • If they’ve been good, they get sweets or small gifts.

  • If naughty, they might find a raw potato.
    By Christmas Eve, all 13 are in town, causing chaos (and giving presents), and by January 6, they’ve all gone back to the mountains.


Our next stop was the Sturlureykir Visiting Horse Farm. We were first shown a short movie about Icelandic horses and their unique capabilities of 5 natural gaits.

What Makes Icelandic Horses Unique

  1. Pure Bloodline for Over 1,000 Years

    • The Vikings brought their ancestors to Iceland in the late 9th–10th century.

    • Importing horses has been banned for centuries, so no new bloodlines have been introduced — meaning Icelandic horses today are direct descendants of those first Viking horses.

    • Once an Icelandic horse leaves the country, it can never return (to protect against disease).

  2. Five Natural Gaits (Most horses have only three)

    • Walk

    • Trot

    • Canter/Gallop

    • Tölt – A smooth, four-beat gait that lets the rider travel long distances without bouncing in the saddle. This is the signature Icelandic gait.

    • Flying Pace (skeið) – A high-speed, two-beat gait used for short bursts in races.

  3. Small but Strong

    • Height: 13–14 hands (pony-sized), but Icelanders insist they’re horses.

    • Incredibly sturdy and able to carry full-grown adults over rough terrain.

  4. Hardy and Weatherproof

    • Evolved to survive Iceland’s harsh winters on limited grazing.

    • Thick double-layer coat in winter, which they shed for a sleeker summer look.

  5. Remarkably Friendly and Intelligent

    • Known for curiosity and a calm temperament.

    • Often walk right up to people, especially if they think you have snacks.

  6. Cultural Icons

    • Appear in Icelandic sagas, poetry, and art.

    • Still widely used for farm work, sheep herding, and leisure riding — not just tourism.

After the movie, we walked to a couple of barns to touch and feed many Icelandic horses. They were incredibly friendly (and hungry). Both Inna and I enjoyed interacting with them. The horse farm has 60+ horses, and we interacted with about 8 to 10. We were also offered freshly baked rye bread and hot chocolate (which we enjoyed). The horse farm also offers rides, but this requires additional time and reservations. The horse farm uses geothermal energy for baking bread and for heating everything (especially during winter).

Our next stop was Deildartunguhver / hot springs - the biggest hot springs in Europe. We took a few photos of the hot springs (mostly steam coming out).  Then, we walked toward a nearby Food Truck to purchase two hot dogs (as this would be our only time for lunch).

As we continued our drive south, Bjorn pointed out Skorradalsvatn - a lake used for water sports (jet skis) by many locals and visitors from Reykjavik. Bjorn also pointed out - Glymur - the highest waterfall in Iceland, but you need to hike to see it.

Our next stop was a complete surprise - Bjorn decided to take us to his home, to show us his nearby residence, meet his wife Linda and his golden retriever "Esse", and to show us his beautifully built wine tasting room.

Björn Ingi Knútsson is a certified wine expert with credentials including WSET Level 3, Spanish Wine Scholar (SWS), French Wine Scholar (FWS), and ongoing studies for the Italian Wine Scholar (IWS).
We tasted some delicious white wine and petted "Esse". We marveled at the beautiful construction of the wine seminar center (and the beautiful location on the lake).

Upon finally returning to Reykjavik, we have circumnavigated Iceland, driving over a total of 2,150 km in six days.

We were dropped off at Hotel Island (our previous hotel in Reykjavik). Since we had to catch an early flight to Edinburgh the next day, we ordered a taxi for 5:30 the next day.

Since we still had energy left, we decided to get some additional exercise and walked to Reykjavik. I had made dinner reservations for 18:0 at Forréttabarinn (a highly rated restaurant). After sitting down, we ordered the 4-course tasting menu:
  • Fly fish
  • Lamb
  • Beer
The dinner was fantastic with excellent portions and deliciously prepared lamb and fish. It was one of our finest dinners in Reykjavik.

After dinner, we tried to walk back, but the wind was cold, gusty, and unrelenting. We decided to try riding a bus instead and boarded #14 downtown. We were much better off using the bus!

Once in our hotel room, we packed everything, showered, and prepared for an early departure.

Day Review (August 1)

Highlights

Lowlights
  • Unrelenting, cold, gusty wind in Reykjavik




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