Friday, August 8, 2025

Castles & Loch Lomond, Scotland (August 8)

Friday, August 08, 2025    No comments

Friday, August 8, 2025

Start:  #7 Seabeds Luxury Lookouts, Woodlands, Glencoe, Scotland

End: #351, Cameron House, A82, Loch Lomond, Alexandria G83 8QZ, Scotland

I woke at 07:30, showered, and dressed. The weather outside was gray and drizzly, but we had to get ready to check out. It always seems to be drizzling in the Scottish Highlands. I packed my luggage and all the power adapters. 

Our last breakfast basket arrived, and I took it inside. The basket contained one plain croissant, one pain au chocolat, slices of bread, raspberry jam, cheddar cheese, and two glass containers of yogurt with granola. I made coffee in the room's Nespresso coffee machine, and we enjoyed the delicious yogurt and the bread. I still didn't care for the plain croissant (in general, the quality and variety of food declines as we get further from Edinburgh).

We loaded our Vauxhall Mokka with our bags and drove to the Woodlands Glencoe office to check out. I left the key in the door of our #7 SeaBed and stopped at a nearby gas station to fill up my gasoline tank. The price of gasoline was GBP 1.39 per liter, which translates to $7.13 / gallon (very high!)

At 10:00, we started our drive to Kilchurn Castle, our first stop on the way to Loch Lomond. About 10-minutes into the drive along A82, we hit heavy traffic that continued for most of the drive. Later on, we learned that we got stuck behind a large boat being transported. I should have gone a different way, using A828 (which Google Maps suggested but I ignored). This delayed our arrival at Kilchurn Castle by 90 minutes, arriving at 12:37 (we were originally expecting to arrive at 11:00).

I had programmed the Kilchurn Castle Viewing area (instead of the Kilchurn Castle itself) by accident. When we finally reached it, we were surprised by the fact that we could see it plainly, as many other cars and buses parked nearby did too, but we could not reach it. There was a wire fence and grazing animals in the field. I had recalled from reading about the castle on ChatGPT that there was a 10-minute walk to reach it, but I did not see a path to the castle. After taking a few photos, we decided to drive to our next destination, St Conan’s Kirk.

However, as soon as I started driving, we reached the Davisons of Dalmally (parking lot), where lots of cars were parked. Upon parking, we saw a clear pathway to Kilchurn Castle. For 10 minutes, we hiked to the castle, past fields of cows. The castle looked much more scenic and impressive at a distance. Now that we were close, it was not very remarkable at all. It was falling apart, and the area around it was boggy and muddy.

Kilchurn Castle is a dramatic and picturesque ruin perched on what was once an island at the northeastern end of Loch Awe in western Scotland WikipediaScotlandArgyll Coast. Over time, falling water levels transformed the island into a peninsula, linking it to the mainland WikipediaSecret ScotlandArgyll Coast.

Historical Highlights

  • Origins & Builders
    The castle was founded around 1450 by Sir Colin Campbell, 1st Lord of Glenorchy, after being granted the land in 1432 WikipediaHistoric Environment Scotland. Originally a Campbell stronghold built on land formerly owned by Clan Gregor, it featured a five-storey tower house and a courtyard defended by a wall WikipediaHistoric Environment Scotland.

  • Development Through the Centuries

    • Early 1500s: Sir Duncan Campbell added the laich hall (a dining hall) before dying at Flodden in 1513 WikipediaHistoric Environment Scotland.

    • Late 1500s: The 6th Lord Campbell upgraded the tower with corner turrets and moved the family’s main seat to Balloch (now Taymouth Castle) WikipediaVisitScotland.

    • Early 1600s: "Black Duncan" (Sir Duncan Campbell, 1st Baronet) rebuilt and extended the south range (including a chapel), enhancing its residential and defensive capabilities WikipediaHistoric Environment Scotland.

  • Military Role & Garrison
    After the first Jacobite Rising (1689), the castle was converted into a garrison under Sir John Campbell, 1st Earl of Breadalbane. A three-story, L-shaped barracks was constructed to house up to 200 troops, making it the oldest surviving barracks building on mainland Britain WikipediaHistoric Environment ScotlandVisitScotland.

  • Later History & Decline
    The castle saw limited active use beyond the Jacobite rebellions of 1715 and 1745 WikipediaHistoric Environment ScotlandAtlas Obscura. In 1760, a lightning strike caused significant structural damage (including a collapsed turret in the courtyard), after which it was abandoned and largely fell into ruin WikipediaArgyll CoastSecret Scotland.

Today
What Makes Kilchurn Special

  • Photographic Appeal: The castle’s romantic ruin framed by Loch Awe and the dramatic surrounding Highlands makes it a favourite among photographers ScotlandCountryfileArgyll CoastOban.

  • Architectural & Historical Significance: From its medieval build to its pioneering role as a garrison with purpose-built barracks, Kilchurn offers a unique glimpse into Scotland’s medieval and Jacobite-era past Historic Environment ScotlandAtlas ObscuraCountryfileOban.

  • Atmospheric Setting: Today, the ruined battlements and tower offer scenic views across Loch Awe, and its silent, historic presence evokes the complex legacy of the Highlalnds.


After a quick stroll around the castle, we returned to our car and drove a few minutes to St Conan's Kirk, arriving at 13:15. Inna was hoping to stop by for afternoon tea at the Stag & Ivy at The Kirk, but the receptionist told us that there was no room now (or in the future). Inna was a bit disappointed.

Nevertheless, we walked around the small, privately built St Conan's Kirk, taking photos and admiring the lovely church.

St Conan's Kirk is a fascinating and uniquely eclectic church located in the village of Lochawe, on the shore of Loch Awe in Argyll and Bute, Scotland WikipediaVisitors Guide to Scotland. Designed and built by Walter Douglas Campbell, an amateur architect, around an initial chapel begun in 1881 and substantially expanded from 1907 until his death in 1914, the church was finally consecrated in 1930 WikipediaSt Conan's KirkVisitors Guide to Scotland.

It was reportedly built to spare his mother the long journey to the nearest church, making it both a heartfelt family project and a remarkable architectural treasure St Conan's KirkAtlas Obscura.

Architecture & Artistic Highlights

  • The design blends a breathtaking range of styles—from Romanesque, Norman, Saxon, Gothic Revival, Arts & Crafts, to Celtic Revival—all in one composition St Conan's KirkWikipedia.

  • Found objects and repurposed materials add layers of historic charm:

    • Oak beams in the cloisters were salvaged from two decommissioned battleships, HMS Caledonia and HMS Duke of Wellington WikipediaWikipediaAtlas Obscura.

    • Other older elements include a medieval window from South Leith Parish Church and stone fragments possibly from Iona Abbey WikipediaAtlas Obscura.

  • Charming decorative touches:

    • Look for unusual carvings and motifs throughout: carved owls, cherubs, swallows, griffins, whimsical faces, a hare-shaped water spout, a gargoyle in the form of a hunting dog, and dolphin chairs St Conan's KirkAtlas Obscura.

  • Chapels within the Kirk:

    • The Bruce Chapel houses a carving of Robert the Bruce with an ossuary—reportedly holding one of his bones WikipediaAtlas Obscura.

    • Other chapels include the St Bride’s Chapel (with a carved effigy of Walter Douglas Campbell) and St Conval’s Chapel, each flanked by ornate metal gates by Thomas Hadden Wikipedia.

Visiting Info

  • Opening Hours:

  • Admission is by donation, often around £3 suggested, with proceeds supporting conservation and upkeep St Conan's KirkAtlas Obscura.

  • Location & Access:

    • It's on the A85 between Dalmally and Oban. Parking is limited, but you can walk from the nearby Lochawe railway station, or arrive by bus (Oban–Glasgow route) St Conan's KirkSt Conan's Kirk.

    • The Gatehouse Tearoom runs during summer months, serving tea and home-baked cakes St Conan's Kirk.

  • Guided Tours are available—for groups and schools, by arrangement and for a fee that supports restoration efforts St Conan's KirkSt Conan's Kirk.

  • Accessibility:

    • Some parts of the Kirk have challenging access—steep paths, gravel surfaces, single steps, and no handrails. There are limited wheelchair-accessible routes, and during staffed events a ramp may be available St Conan's Kirk.

    • Note: Toilet facilities are in the Gatehouse Tearoom; disabled access is limited but under improvement St Conan's Kirk.

Cultural & Community Significance

  • Recognized by the Royal Incorporation of Architects in Scotland as one of the Top 10 Scottish buildings of the past century, St Conan’s stands as both artistic and spiritual legacy WikipediaSt Conan's Kirk.

  • It serves as a Chapel of Ease, remains active (with monthly Church of Scotland services), and is maintained by the St Conan’s Church Trust and supported by Friends of St Conan’s Kirk WikipediaSt Conan's Kirk.

  • The Kirk also plays a vibrant role in the local community—hosting craft days, sing-alongs, festivals, concerts, and even Christmas tree celebrations

At around 13:30, we decided to continue our drive, with a stop at Inveraray Castle. The scenic drive took about an hour, arriving at Inveraray at 14:30. We found paid parking in the city, near the castle (but could have parked directly in the castle's large parking lot). 

Before stopping to tour the castle, we decided to have lunch at Brambles of Inveraray. After being seated, we eventually managed to order the following (service was a bit slow):
  • Drinks: Cappuccino x 2
  • Main: Fish and Chips x 2
  • Dessert: Apple Strudel with Ice Cream
The food and drinks were brought out at the same time. The fish & chips were decent, and the apple strudel was excellent. After about an hour, we finished lunch and headed to Inveraray Castle. It was a 15-minute walk (we could have saved time by driving there directly).

At 16:30, we reached Inveraray Castle and purchased tickets for the castle & gardens. We asked how much time a tour would require and were told that an hour should be sufficient for the castle and gardens. The closing time was listed at 17:00 (for the last admitted entry). The castle closes to visitors at 18:00.

We walked inside and marvelled at the beautiful paintings. While not a large castle, it was still occupied by its owners and was tastefully furnished. It had a beautiful display of medieval weapons arranged in a very artistic and creative way.
Historical & Architectural Overview

  • Location & Significance
    Inveraray Castle sits near Inveraray in Argyll, western Scotland, on the tranquil shores of Loch Fyne—Scotland’s longest sea loch. It has served as the seat of the Dukes of Argyll, chiefs of Clan Campbell, since the mid-18th century WikipediaHistoric Houses.

  • Architectural Style & Construction
    One of Britain’s earliest Gothic Revival buildings, the current castle was built on the foundations of a 15th-century stronghold. Construction began in 1746 under Archibald Campbell, the Earl of Ilay (later 3rd Duke of Argyll), with work led by architects William Adam and Roger Morris WikipediaThe Castles of Scotland. Originally featuring flat, crenellated roofs, the structure later gained pitched roofs and conical tower roofs added to enhance its silhouette Wikipediahttps://www.discoverbritain.com.

Interior Highlights & Collections

  • Armoury Hall
    This soaring hall, with a nearly 21-meter-high ceiling (among Scotland’s tallest), is lined with more than 1,300 weapons—muskets, pikes, Lochaber axes, and even Rob Roy MacGregor’s personal dirk and sporran World Castlehttps://www.discoverbritain.comCrerar Hotels Group.

  • State Dining & Drawing Rooms
    Lavishly adorned, the State Dining Room features ornate plasterwork, French tapestries from Beauvais, and richly crafted furnishings by French and British artists, including Girard and Guinand and the French upholsterer Dupasquier https://www.discoverbritain.comLuxury Vacations UKGuide to Europe.

  • Other Noteworthy Rooms
    The castle also features a Gallery, Clan Room (with Campbell genealogy), Saloon, and atmospheric bedrooms—some with local ghost lore such as the “Grey Lady” and haunted harpist Crerar Hotels GroupLoch Lomond WaterfrontThe Castles of Scotland.

  • Historical Fires & Restorations
    A fire in 1877 led to Victorian renovations—including the addition of the conical turrets—while a serious blaze in 1975 prompted a global appeal to restore the castle; the then-12th Duke and Duchess even lived in its basement during the renovations https://www.discoverbritain.comWikipediaThe Times.

Gardens, Grounds & Landscape

  • Gardens
    Enveloping the house are formal gardens of about 16 acres, famed for seasonal displays—from daffodils and bluebells in spring to vibrant rhododendrons and azaleas in early summer, followed by autumn colors Discover Scottish GardensHistoric Houses. Notably, in 2024, these gardens earned the Historic Houses Garden of the Year award Discover Scottish Gardens.

  • Estate Scale
    Beyond the gardens lies a sprawling estate of approximately 60,000 acres, encompassing forestry, farmland, and sporting areas WikipediaLuxury Vacations UK.

  • Aray Bridge
    Nearby stands the elegant 18th-century stone-arch Aray Bridge (also known as Inveraray Bridge), built between 1775–76 and recognized as a Category A listed structure Wikipedia.

Visiting Today
Cultural & Media Highlights

  • Media Appearances
    Inveraray Castle has featured in numerous TV series, including Downton Abbey (as “Duneagle Castle”), Great Estates Scotland, A Very British Scandal, An American Aristocrat's Guide to Great Estates, and The Diplomat (2024) Wikipedia+1The TimesThe Castles of Scotland.

  • Heritage & Community
    It continues as the private family home of the Duke of Argyll, with public spaces blending into heritage displays and community events.

We enjoyed the castle and its beautifully manicured gardens. However, it was time to move on. We continued our drive to Loch Lomond with a stop in Ardkinglas Woodland Garden.
Overview & Location

  • Nestled overlooking Loch Fyne in Argyll, near the village of Cairndow, Ardkinglas Woodland Garden is part of the historic Ardkinglas Estate. The garden lies within a designed landscape listed on Scotland's inventory of significant gardens.Scotland's GardensWikipedia

  • It spans approximately 25 acres of lush woodland on a hillside, offering beautiful views and peaceful strolls.Britain ExpressWild About Argyll

Historical Roots & Horticultural Legacy

  • Gardening on this land dates back to at least the 14th century, with early orchards and culinary gardens near the original Ardkinglas House. Woodland management began more systematically in the late 18th century, with species like larch, beech, elm, lime, and silver fir introduced.Ardkinglas

  • In ~1875, the Callander family established a pinetum—an arboretum of conifers—that still supports today’s Champion Trees.ArdkinglasBritain Express

  • The estate was acquired in 1905 by Sir Andrew Noble, and the 1920s saw the planting of a rhododendron collection, thanks in part to plant imports from Bodnant Garden in Wales. Subsequent generations, including Michael Noble and Lady Glenkinglas, continued hybridization and expansion of this floral collection.ArdkinglasBritain Express

  • Though the garden was briefly renamed Strone Woodland Garden in the 1960s, it returned to Ardkinglas in the 1990s. A dedicated gardener helped restore and further develop the grounds.Ardkinglas

What Makes It Special

  • Champion Trees Galore
    The garden boasts extraordinary specimens, including a Silver Fir dubbed the “Mightiest Conifer in Europe” (with a girth exceeding 31 ft), and a Grand Fir—once Britain’s tallest tree, soaring over 200 ft.Britain ExpressBritain's FinestVisitScotlandWikipedia

  • Stunning Plant Collections
    May and June are peak months to see rhododendrons and azaleas in full bloom. The garden’s favorable conditions support a rich variety of species like Rhododendron augustinii and Rhododendron ‘Polar Bear’. Autumn showcases autumnal hues and a colorful Sorbus collection.Britain ExpressWild About ArgyllVisitScotlandHerald ScotlandArdkinglas

  • Garden Features & Trails
    Paths meander past an old mill by the River Kinglas, a gazebo scriptorium displaying literary quotes, and uniquely engaging features for families—Gruffalo Trail, Fairy Trail, and the playful Snakey Slide.ArdkinglasScotland's GardensVisitScotlandWild About ArgyllHerald Scotland

  • Wildlife & Atmosphere
    Keep an eye out for red squirrels and enjoy the soothing woodland ambience, rich with moss, lichens, and seasonal color.

It was a small but beautiful garden, nestled near a Loch (that was highly recommended by ChatGPT). We liked strolling through it, but the light drizzle outside started to become heavy, and we were not prepared for a heavy torrent. We decided to return to our car and continue to our final destination.

Our final drive to Luss started at 18:30. Upon arrival at Loch Lomond, we found a beach with a variety of water sports (kayaks, SUPs, swimmers) and a few nearby restaurants. We decided to dine at Colquhoun's Restaurant on the beach. Walking in, we were quickly seated, despite having made no reservations. We ordered the following items:
  • Appetizer: Buffalo Mozarella
  • Drinks: Sparkling water
  • Inna: Lamb Rump
  • Boris: Korean Crispy Chicken
  • Dessert: Choux straciatella
The Crispy Chicken was not bad, and Inna's Lamb was better than average. Service was fast and efficient. We enjoyed the view of Loch Lomond from our seats in the restaurant. I saw a few people swimming, but I imagine that the water must have been quite cold.

After dinner, we drove for 10 minutes south to Cameron House, a posh 5-star hotel, where we would be staying. On arrival, we unloaded our car (with the help of Cameron House staff) and checked in. The valet parked our car.

Inna had booked a Loch View room, but the first room we were assigned was underground (without any view). We returned to the receptionist to complain, but she insisted that some part of the lake was visible. Eventually, another gentleman stepped in to help out, and we were assigned a different room (#351) with a view of a parking lot (just lovely!). 

The unhelpful attitude at the very beginning and unwillingness to make it right was disappointing.  We eventually received some room credit for staying in our downgraded room (but we didn't come all the way to Scotland for a view of the parking lot.)

From the outside, Cameron House looks impressive and imposing. Inside, however, there are multiple levels and confusing room numbers (room numbers don't indicate which floor they are on). We got lost on one occasion, walking through the vast complex, which contains a movie theater, multiple bars, and an indoor pool. It did not appear well thought out - almost like someone haphazardly merged several buildings together.

Our room was well furnished, but with weirdnesses (like no A/C sockets in the bathroom) and a sink so low that I could not fill my electric kettle. Whoever designed the bathroom did not think about practicality at all. On the positive note, the bed was very comfortable and we slept very well. The shower worked and the toilet flushed. There was even one bottle of water in the mini-fridge.

Cameron House is no Four Seasons (a real 5-star resort). After spending two days at Cameron House, I would rate it as a 3.5 stars (out of 5).

My wife wrote the following review about Cameron House on Tripadvisor:
I had very high expectations for Cameron House on Loch Lomond, given its reputation as a beautiful 5-star property, but unfortunately, the experience did not fully live up to them. We had specifically booked a lake view room, so we were surprised to be escorted to a basement-level room upon arrival. While the room itself was tastefully decorated in a classic Scottish style, it was extremely dark, and the only “lake view” was through a tiny window set nearly 7 feet high — impossible to actually see the lake. We assumed there must have been a mistake, but when we raised the concern at reception, the staff member who had checked us in, Jennah, insisted that this was in fact a lake view room because of its location on the lakeside of the building. She was dismissive, unhelpful, and frankly quite unprofessional, which was a very unpleasant start to our stay. Thankfully, her colleague — a very kind and professional gentleman — stepped in to help. Since no true lake view rooms were available, he moved us to a room in the modern wing. This room faced the parking lot, so we lost the lake view we had booked, but at least it was bright, clean, and comfortably decorated. He mentioned a rate adjustment, when we settled the bill the charge for lunch at the hotel and 2 spa passes were waved. Overall, our stay was a mixed bag. Most of the personnel we encountered were warm, cheerful, and eager to help — with the exception of our first interaction with Jennah, which left a lasting negative impression. For a property that carries such high prestige (and prices), the handling of our check-in and room assignment fell well below expectations. Cameron House is undoubtedly a beautiful hotel in a stunning location, but based on our experience, it struggles to deliver the consistent 5-star service and attention to detail that guests rightfully expect.


Day Report (August 8)

Highlights
Lowlights
  • Getting stuck in heavy, bumper-to-bumper traffic on the A82 when leaving Glencoe and heading to Kilchurn Castle
  • Poor Customer Service at Cameron House
    • Trying to pass off an underground room without a view as "Loch Lomond" view
  • Drizzly weather


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