Saturday, August 2, 2025

Fringe Festival at Edinburgh, Scotland (August 2)

Saturday, August 02, 2025  ,  No comments

Saturday, August 2, 2025

Starting: Room #411, Hotel Island, Reykjavik, Iceland
Ending: Room #165, Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel, Edinburgh, Scotland
Highlights: Oldtown Edinburgh, Festival Theater: Make It Happen 

Because of the early flight out of the Keflavik Airport (KEF), I set the alarm for 05:00. We quickly woke up, dressed, and rushed downstairs, where our taxi was already waiting (we got a call from the front desk at 05:25). We were supposed to get a takeaway breakfast. Still, in our rush to the airport, we forgot all about it.

The taxi was costly - USD 198 - for a 45-minute ride to the Keflavik Airport. We arrived on time, at 06:15, and walked upstairs through passport control and security.

At 07:15, we stopped by for breakfast at Jomfruin, a Danish restaurant chain (that operated an eatery in the airport).  We ordered the following items (1 USD = 125 ISK)
  • Breakfast Plate (3450 isk)
  • Avocado Toast with Egg (2890 isk)
  • Coffee (2 x 650 isk)
It was not bad for airport food, but it wasn't anything to get excited about. At least the prices were reasonable (given the expensive cost of everything in Iceland).

Our EZJet Flight #3316 (EZY3316) to Edinburgh (EDI) was delayed until 08:56, but we boarded quickly once the boarding started. There were two boarding lines for premium vs regular boarding, and we initially stood in the wrong line. Our seats 2A and 2B were great, and it was nice not having to worry about luggage space.

During the flight, I read a sample of A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle. I managed to finish reading chapter 1. I will probably download the rest of the book. I really enjoyed it.

Once we landed in Edinburgh, we ordered an UberX and were quickly whisked away to our Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel. Our room #165 was ready, and we dropped off our luggage, changed our travel clothes, and decided to stop by for lunch at the Hotel's Baba restaurant. We asked our hotel receptionist to make lunch reservations for us, and she called us to tell us that our table was ready.

Around 13:30, we walked downstairs to Baba. There was a large party ahead of us, and we sat at a communal table (private tables were not available). We ordered the following items from the menu:
  • Smoked Almond Labneh
  • Marinated chicken thigh
  • Shoulder lamb
  • Cauliflower fritters
The shoulder lamb and marinated chicken thighs were delicious (though portions were on the smaller side). Finishing with lunch, we decided to stroll around Edinburgh. I had a particular desire to see some of the famous monuments nearby.

As we started our walk down George Street, we saw a Hot Chocolate Shop, called Knoops, and Inna and I decided to stop by for a taste of premium hot chocolae. We selected a small, 70% chocolate version and liked it a lot.

As we continued walking, we encountered the Scott Monument (dedicated to Sir Walter Scott), which was very crowded. In fact, all of Edinburgh was extremely crowded (especially after Iceland's Reykjavik). We also saw statues of Sir Walter Scott, Dr. Livingston, and Adam Smith.
Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832) was one of Scotland’s most celebrated writers, a towering figure of the Romantic era, and a key architect of how the world pictures Scotland today.

Scott pioneered the historical novel in English literature, blending real events and people with fictional characters.

  • Poetry:

    • The Lay of the Last Minstrel (1805)

    • Marmion (1808)

    • The Lady of the Lake (1810) – inspired tourism to the Trossachs.

  • Novels (often published anonymously as “by the Author of Waverley”):

    • Waverley (1814) – considered the first historical novel in English.

    • Rob Roy (1817) – romanticized the life of an outlaw in the Highlands.

    • The Heart of Midlothian (1818) – set around real historical events in Edinburgh.

    • Ivanhoe (1819) – medieval England, featuring Robin Hood and Richard the Lionheart.

    • The Bride of Lammermoor (1819), The Legend of Montrose (1819), The Talisman (1825), and many more.

 

Dr. David Livingstone (1813–1873) was one of the most famous Victorian-era explorers, a Scottish missionary, physician, and anti-slavery advocate whose travels through Africa captured the imagination of the world.

  • Born: March 19, 1813, in Blantyre, Scotland.

  • Came from a working-class family, started working in a cotton mill at age 10.

  • Studied medicine and theology in Glasgow while working — a rare combination for the time.

  • Inspired by the London Missionary Society’s call for missionary work in Africa.

Missionary and Explorer

  • Went to Southern Africa in 1841 as a missionary-doctor.

  • Believed that Christianity, commerce, and Western education could combat the slave trade and improve African societies.

  • Moved beyond missionary work into exploration, aiming to map unknown regions of Africa for future missions and trade routes.

Major Expeditions

  1. First Journey (1841–1856)

    • Traveled widely in Southern Africa.

    • Crossed the continent from west to east — from Angola to Mozambique — becoming the first European to do so.

  2. Zambezi Expedition (1858–1864)

    • Funded by the British government to explore the Zambezi River as a potential trade route.

    • Discovered and named Victoria Falls (known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, “The Smoke That Thunders”).

    • Expedition struggled with disease, hostile terrain, and political challenges.

  3. Nile Source Search (1866–1873)

    • Ventured into East and Central Africa to find the source of the Nile.

    • This was his most difficult expedition — he lost contact with the outside world for years.

The Famous Meeting

  • In 1871, American journalist Henry Morton Stanley was sent by the New York Herald to find Livingstone.

  • After an arduous journey to the town of Ujiji (in modern Tanzania), Stanley reportedly greeted him with the now-famous line:

    “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”

  • Livingstone, ill but still determined, refused to leave Africa until his work was complete.

Death and Legacy

  • Died May 1, 1873, in present-day Zambia, likely from malaria and dysentery.

  • His African attendants, loyal to the end, buried his heart under a tree in Zambia and carried his body over 1,000 miles to the coast, from where it was shipped to Britain.

  • Buried in Westminster Abbey, London.

  • Remembered as a symbol of exploration, anti-slavery advocacy, and missionary zeal — though his legacy is also debated today for its role in paving the way for European colonial expansion.

After walking around Edinburgh, we grew a bit tired and returned to our hotel. We had made dinner reservations at Shish (a Turkish Restaurant), near Festival Theater, where Inna had booked tickets to our first Edinburgh Fringe show.

We used a public bus to get to Shish (as walking would have taken too long). Our bus was a bit late, but we still managed to arrive around 18:00. The restaurant was very popular and looked quite full. After checking in, we were quickly seated and ordered our dinner:
  • Kuku Casik - cucumber, yogurt, mint
  • Conan Salata - tomato salad
  • Tire Kofte - chargrilled lamb, tomato sauce, garlic
  • Turkish ea x 2
  • Trilece - sweet dessert
The dishes were excellent and we enjoyed our dinner before the show. Some people ordered enormous trays of food, and we wondered how they were going to finish them all! At around 19:10, we paid our bill and headed for Festival Theater (only a few minutes away) for our first Edinburgh Fringe show.

Fringe Origins

  • Started in 1947 when eight theatre groups, who weren’t invited to the new Edinburgh International Festival, staged their own performances on the fringe of the official event.

  • Over time, the “uninvited” spirit became its defining feature.

What it is today

  • Scale: Tens of thousands of performances across thousands of shows, ranging from comedy, theatre, dance, circus, cabaret, spoken word, music, to experimental art.

  • Venues: Anywhere can become a stage — traditional theatres, pubs, basements, churches, even streets. Edinburgh transforms into a city-wide performance space.

  • Open access: Unlike curated festivals, anyone who can find a venue and register can perform, meaning there’s no central artistic gatekeeper.

Comedy

  • The Fringe is particularly famous for comedy, especially stand-up. Many big names (e.g., Rowan Atkinson, Eddie Izzard, Phoebe Waller-Bridge, Flight of the Conchords) first gained recognition there.

  • Prestigious comedy awards like the Edinburgh Comedy Award (formerly Perrier Award) are given out.

Atmosphere

  • The Royal Mile becomes the hub of street performers, flyer-handing actors, and pop-up acts.

  • It’s buzzing, chaotic, and very international, with performers and audiences from all over the world.

Cultural significance

  • Considered a major launching pad for careers in theatre, comedy, and the arts.

  • Part of a bigger August festival season in Edinburgh, which also includes the Edinburgh International Festival, the Edinburgh International Book Festival, and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

Festival Theater had a coffee shop (which was quite busy), and there were crowds of people headed for it. Inna could barely get tickets to Make It Happen at 19:30, and our seats were on the 4th floor (not the best). I was surprised to see the theater fill up to its max, and the show started a bit after 19:30. 

Overall, we found Make It Happen quite boring and had difficulty staying awake. Despite a strong cast of actors, with Brian Cox (a celebrated Scottish actor, see HBO Succession) playing Adam Smith, the subject matter was difficult to get excited about.
What’s It About?
Key Creatives & Cast

  • Brian Cox returns to the Scottish stage after a decade, portraying the philosopher Adam Smith’s ghost—a flamboyant, thought-provoking conscience of capitalism The GuardianEdinburgh International Festival.

  • Sandy Grierson brings depth to the role of Fred Goodwin, exploring his ambition and moral flaws—playing him as both human and chillingly ruthless The TimesEdinburgh International Festival.

  • Directed by Andrew Panton, with dynamic design by Anna Fleischle, and an ensemble cast playing political figures and RBS stakeholders, accompanied by live musicians Edinburgh International Festival+1.

Production Highlights & Reception

  • Reviews spotlight the play’s visual flair, musical interludes, and theatrical ambition:

    • Time Out critiques its density but praises its humor and the presence of Adam Smith Time Out Worldwide.

    • The Scotsman awards it 4 stars, admitting it goes over length—but calls it spectacular and fitting as a Festival opener The Scotsman.

    • FestMag enthusiastically gives it 5 stars, celebrating its “electrifying” ensemble drama and satirical bite Fest Magazine.

    • Financial Times frames it as a modern Greek tragedy fused with jukebox musical stylings—clever, critical, and powerful Financial Times.

    • The Guardian notes its fast-paced, humorous edge and strong economic critique, though admitting it occasionally loses narrative cohesion The Guardian.

Practical Info

  • Venue & Dates: At the Edinburgh Festival Theatre, running from 30 July to 9 August 2025, with evening and matinee performances edinburghguide.comEdinburgh International Festival.

  • Performance Length: Approximately 2 hours 10 minutes (including interval), though some critics mention it occasionally runs longer Capital TheatresThe Scotsman.

  • Special Access Shows: Audio-described and captioned performances are available on select dates Capital Theatres.

  • Who Should Go: Anyone interested in high-stakes satire, Scottish identity, or theatrical innovation.


After Act 1, we decided to leave the show and explore downtown Edinburgh instead. It was so much more fun, seeing street performers and random musical acts.

After we grew tired, we decided to return to our hotel. Inna decided to purchase tickets to The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, but the show got cancelled due to extremely windy weather (a large storm was approaching).

Day Review (August 2)

Highlights

  • Exploring Edinburgh downtown and seeing all the Fringe Festival theaters
    • Seeing street performers and musicians
    • Seeing the Scott Monument
  • Tasting 70% Hot Chocolate at Knoops,  George Street, Edinburgh
  • Mediterranean Dinner at Shish
Lowlights
  • Make It Happen in Festival Theater was underwhelming (boring)
  • Huge crowds in downtown Edinburgh (probably for the Fringe Festival)
  • Public buses were often late
  • Cold weather with gusty winds (random drizzles)

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