Stirling Castle, Scotland (August 5)

Tuesday, August 5, 2025

Start: #165, Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel, Edinburgh, Scotland

End: #7 Seabeds Luxury Lookouts, Woodlands, Glencoe, Scotland
Highlights: Stirling Castle, Lake Lubnaig, Glencoe

It was time to prepare for the long drive to Glencoe, Scotland. I woke at 07:40, showered, and shaved.

I also packed all of my bags, though not completely (as we would have the use of a car). I made breakfast reservations at Urban Angel (nearby) for the time of 09:15. 

At around 09:05, we started our 10-minute walk to Urban Angel. Upon arrival, we were quickly seated at a table in another room (I did not realize how much space there was inside). We ordered the following items from the breakfast menu:

• Boris: Cappuccino, Yogurt with Granola and Banana
• Inna: Latte, Baked Eggs with Goat Cheese

My Yogurt with Granola and Banana was excellent (as expected), and Inna's Baked Eggs (sort of like Eggs Benedict) were also delicious. After breakfast, we returned to our room in the Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel and prepared to check out.

At 10:15, we ordered an UberX to drive us to Edinburgh Airport (EDI), where the SIXT Car Rental was located. Our UberX drive picked us up in a Tesla Model 3, but had to drop us off at the main airport terminal to avoid getting fined. The Edinburgh airport car rental location does not allow for taxis to drop off renters there. Our driver was unhappy about the political climate in the U.K. and was hoping for a change. He said that the U.K. was becoming more authoritarian, and he was considering relocating.

At around 10:30, we entered a large building where SIXT (along with many other car rental companies) was located. I talked to a SIXT agent about my rental, and he suggested that I upgrade from a Mini Cooper to a small SUV, explaining that roads in the Highlands were too harsh for the low ground-clearance Mini. I eventually negotiated a smaller upgrade (GBP 55 / day) for a small crossover Vauxhall Mokka 1.2-liter gasoline version (in white) with license plate DY25SXA.

The Vauxhall Mokka is a small crossover SUV produced by the British car manufacturer Vauxhall (part of Stellantis, previously Opel under GM). It is designed to offer the elevated driving position and practicality of an SUV in a compact, city-friendly package.

We had difficulty finding the Vauxhall Mokka's location, but eventually found it. We loaded the Mokka with our luggage (our two small suitcases barely fit in its trunk). I got out my USB-A to Lightning cable and connected my iPhone 14 Pro Max so that I could use Google Maps for navigation. I could also play music using Spotify (as I had pre-downloaded many songs onto my iPhone).

The weather was a bit windy and drizzly as we started the drive toward Doune Castle (our first planned stop) on the way to Glencoe.

While nearing Doune, Inna mentioned that Stirling Castle was rated much higher and was closer, so we re-programmed my iPhone's Google Maps for Stirling instead. When we reached Stirling, we had major difficulties on the narrow one-lane roads (squeezing by other cars), and finding parking was impossible. We decided to park on the outskirts in the Castleview Park & Ride.

We parked our car and waited to board a bus that goes around the area, stopping near Stirling Castle. It took about 10 minutes to reach the Castle, arriving there at 13:15.

Once we purchased tickets (online could be 4 GBP cheaper), we asked about castle tours and found that the next one-hour tour would depart at 13:30 (in about 10 minutes). We walked around the outskirts, waiting for our tour guide.

Our tour guide was excellent and showed all the fine points of this 12th-century castle. The tour showed us the following:

• Dining Hall
• Royal Apartment
• Making soap, making makeup,
• Proper greeting of the queen
• Can tell her she is running the country badly
• Gallery of wooden faces, carved oak medallions
• The paint of King's gold (not apricot) on the dining hall is disliked by locals.

Stirling Castle is one of Scotland’s most important historic fortresses — both strategically and symbolically — often described as the “key to the kingdom.”

Location & Setting

It sits dramatically atop Castle Hill, a volcanic crag in Stirling, commanding views over the River Forth. This position controlled the main crossing point between the Scottish Highlands and Lowlands, making it a critical stronghold for centuries. Whoever held Stirling Castle could effectively control movement through much of Scotland.

Historical Significance

• Early history: The first records of a castle here date from the 12th century, but the site was likely fortified even earlier.

• Wars of Independence: Stirling Castle played a major role in Scotland’s struggle against England in the late 13th and early 14th centuries. It changed hands multiple times, including after the famous Battle of Stirling Bridge (1297) and the Battle of Bannockburn (1314).

• Royal residence: From the 15th to early 17th centuries, it was a favored home of the Stewart monarchs. Several Scottish kings and queens were crowned here, including Mary, Queen of Scots in 1543.

• Architectural grandeur: Much of the castle’s Renaissance architecture — such as the Great Hall, Royal Palace, and Chapel Royal — was built or remodeled during the reigns of James IV, James V, and James VI.

Features & Highlights

• The Great Hall: Completed by James IV in 1503, it’s one of the largest medieval banqueting halls in Scotland.

• The Royal Palace: Lavishly decorated with ornate carvings and replicas of the “Stirling Heads” — carved oak portraits from the 16th century.

• Chapel Royal: Built by James VI in 1594 for the baptism of his son Prince Henry.

• Defensive works: Strong curtain walls and artillery fortifications, particularly on the vulnerable northern approach.

Modern Era
The castle saw military use well into the 18th century (including during the Jacobite risings) and later served as a barracks. It is now a major tourist attraction managed by Historic Environment Scotland, offering interactive exhibits, costumed interpreters, and restored interiors that give a vivid sense of royal life.

Fun fact: Because of its commanding location, the castle was sometimes called the “brooch of Scotland” — holding it pinned together the nation’s key routes.

After we finished the tour, we decided to grab a few snacks for lunch. We were a bit late for a normal lunch, so soups were no longer being served. We grabbed a few pre-made sandwiches and a slice of homemade pie. It was delicious!

As we were tired and still had a long drive ahead of us, we decided to return to our car. We boarded the park-and-ride bus and returned to our car's parking lot. We resumed our long drive to Glencoe at around 16:30. We decided to skip Doune Castle (as it was getting late).

Most of the way there, we drove along two-lane roads (one lane each way) without any passing lanes, turnouts, or road shoulders. It took me a while to get used to constant roundabouts, and oncoming heavy trucks and buses.

As we were passing Lake Lubnaig, we stopped by to stretch and to take a photo. It was such a beautiful, quiet place. We continued our drive north, and I got stuck behind a slow-moving truck.

On reaching Tyndrum at 17:50, we decided to stop for dinner at the Real Food Cafe. This cafe had multiple communal tables, and we sat down on high chairs. We ordered the following food at the cashier's window:

• Boris: Haddock and Chips standard portion - huge
• Inna: Salmon Salad

The portions were huge and I enjoyed my Haddock & Chips (a standard Scottish dinner). Inna's Salmon Salad was also delicious.

We continued our drive to Glencoe, arriving at Glencoe Woodlands at 20:05. It was already too late for the Food Truck there (which works from 17:00 - 20:00).

We checked into our Glencoe Woodlands (Seabeds Luxury Lookouts) and were given a map to help identify the location of our unit #7 with a loch (lake) view. We asked about recommended local hikes, and were given the following suggestions:

Recommended Hikes:

• Glencoe Lochan hike
• Grey Mare’s tale waterfall hike

After checking into our room and unpacking, we rested a bit, and I made some hot tea. We decided to rest and relax (though we did not use the hot tub).

Day Report  (August 5)

Highlights

• Touring Stirling Castle
• Seeing the Royal Apartment
• Seeing Wooden Faces
• Seeing Dining Hall
• Breakfast at Urban Angel in Edinburgh
• Getting used to driving the Vauxhall Mokka on windy Scottish roads

Lowlights

• Missing Doune Castle (not enough time)
• Windy, drizzly weather
• Traffic and getting stuck behind slow-moving trucks