Day 1 - Thursday, July 25, 2019
With light traffic, I arrived at
Sherman Island
at around 08:45. At first, I parked by the power lines, but then I re-parked
in the County Park to make it easier to foil access to the playpen area.
We met with Andy, Brandon, and Derek in the morning - the ABK windsurfing
crew. After a short introduction, we split into three separate groups. I was
assigned to group 1, taught by Andy. He explained to us how to do a 360. It
was too much for my ability.
Since the wind was very light, I rigged an Ezzy Elite 6.4m and tried my new
Exocet RF81 with the Slingshot Infinity 76 wing. At first, I could not make it
fly, but it took off briefly.
With the wind being relatively light, Andy decided to have a long lunch - from
12:00 to 15:00 - so we could sail in heavier winds. After eating my bagel
sandwich, I tried foiling it a few more times and was able to get flying for a
bit longer.
My
Exocet RF81's footstraps were incorrectly set up, and I had to move them more
inwards.
I re-rigged to an Ezzy Elite 5.7m and flew on multiple runs. I started to get
the hang of it. When the board stopped making noise, I knew I was flying! It
was a weird sensation. I felt out of control but found that moving forward on
gusts helped.
I spent the rest of the day fooling around and getting more comfortable. I
could point upwind or downwind without any issues.
Here is a GoPro Hero7 Black
video of foiling at Sherman Island:
At around 18:20, we met around Andy's trailer and watched his video recording
of progress. Then, we headed home. I arrived at 21:00, really tired and
hungry.
Day 2 - Friday, July 26, 2019
I arrived earlier, leaving home at 06:45 to pick up my turkey bagel sandwich
and drive to Sherman Island Park.
When I arrived, I prepared my Fanatic 105 STB (attaching the long True Ames
36" fin) since the American River was flooding. It is much harder to go upwind
when both the wind and the tide are heading in the same direction.
In the morning section, I spent time with Andy, who helped improve my sailing
technique, water-starting skills, and pivot jibing.
Andy Brandt's Windsurfing Pointers
- Water-starts
- Only use the back leg
-
In lighter winds, instead of using the sail to pick you up, stand up
with your rear leg
- Sailing Technique
- Keep arms straight (not bent)
- Keep harness lines long
-
The front toe is pointed in the direction of travel (not sideways)
- The front leg is straight
- The body should be straight
- Upwind technique
- Move the front foot in front of the mast track
- Don't fully power the sail; use rail pressure to sail upwind
- Pivot Jibe
- Before initiating the Jibe, move the arms far apart
- Switch your feet when starting to sail clew first
- Do not look down; look ahead
-
Move the sail left (to turn the board right) or right (to turn the board
left)
-
When sailing clew first, the power is controlled by releasing pressure
with the mast-arm
At noon, I was tired and returned to eat my turkey bagel sandwich for lunch.
Since lunch was scheduled from 12:00 to 14:00, I sailed a bit from 13:00 to
14:00, practicing pivot jibes.
At 14:00, we met around Andy's Trailer and broke up into groups. I decided to
work on tacks and went with Derek. He set me up on a big, comprehensive
beginner windsurfing board so that I could have more tacking success.
I practiced many tacks and made quite a few, falling in many times.
Derek's Tacking Technique
- Take your feet out of the footstraps.
-
Place your front foot ahead of the mast track while keeping all the weight on the rear foot.
- Keep the toe of the front foot pointing down the board
- Do not stick your butt out; keep your body straight
- Place your front hand on the mast below the boom
-
Quickly step around the mast, taking a long step (as far as possible)
-
If you stepped early, you might be back-winded, and in that case, you may
need to push the sail forward
After two hours of tacking, the wind picked up, and I decided to try
windsurfing using my Fanatic 105 STB. Even though a few people were
planing, I had difficulty getting in the straps. The Fanatic felt really
small after spending time on the large beginner board.
At 17:20, we reunited with Andy at his truck to watch videos of our
practice sessions.
Day 3 - Saturday, July 27, 2019
Since I was exhausted and sore (and both hands had many calluses), I decided
to skip. The weather was also not very favorable, with light winds in the
forecast and extremely high temperatures (over 100 F) forecast.
I decided to spend the time recuperating with my family in Santa Cruz, where
Alex surfed at The Hook.
Day 4 - Sunday, July 28, 2019
Even though I was tired, I wrapped band-aids around my fingers and prepared
for another day of windsurfing at Sherman Island.
I picked up my usual poppy-seed bagel sandwich from the nearby House of Bagels
and a blueberry muffin on my way to Sherman Island. I arrived at about 08:15
and set up all my gear to prepare for the clinic.
I removed the Fanatic 105 STB from the board bag and installed a slalom fin. I
also installed the Slingshot 76cm Infinity wing into my Exocet RF81 board.
Since the wind was pretty light, I rigged my Ezzy Elite 6.4m sail and went to
the ABK Tent for our morning lecture.
Derek taught the lesson on carve jibes, and I took a few essential
pointers:
Derek's Carve Jibing Tips
-
Before initiating a jibe, look around to make sure that the coast is clear
- Move your rear arm to the "clew" of the boom as far as possible.
-
Unhook from the harness. There should be no difference in board speed.
-
Take the rear foot out of the back foot strap and place it on the leeward
rail.
-
The foot should be pointing in the direction of sailing (not sideways)
-
Bend your knees and put light pressure on your toes to initiate the
downwind turn
- Do not twist your body
- Apply light pressure to your front arm.
- The Front Arm should be straight (lock the elbow)
-
As the board turns more downwind, you can increase the pressure so that
you are almost standing on your tiptoes.
-
When the board approaches 6 o'clock (bow and arrow position), take your
front foot out of the front foot strap and place it perpendicular and
against your other foot (the heel of the front foot should be touching the
midsection of the rear foot)
- Be sure to keep the pressure on the heel of the rear foot
-
Move your rear-most foot to the side of the mast track, being sure to
exert heel pressure on both feet (To keep the board carving)
-
Flip the sail so that you are sailing clew first. The mast arm can be used
to modulate sail power
- Do not move the mast past you
-
As the board turns to 9 o'clock, move the arm closest to the boom closer
to the mast.
- Release the other arm and catch the boom underhanded with your arm.
- Sheet in
These are lovely jibing tips, and I hope to try them soon. Even though the
wind was light, I took out my Exocet RF81 and tried foiling. I sailed fine but
was not able to get the foil flying.
After lunch, from 12:00 to 15:00, we had another lecture where Andy
demonstrated his Sail-Chi. He could control the sail with many small
movements, pushing different parts of the sail.
As the wind picked up, I decided to try foiling again. I could get the foil
flying immediately this time and was incredibly overpowered. I foiled many
very fast reaches and eventually returned to the cove.
Andy's Foiling Tips
-
Keep the body straight and upright. If leaning, lean the whole body back
- Sail size is usually 1-2 sizes smaller than regular windsurfing
General advice: I need to spend quality time practicing on a more giant board
in lighter winds to get better at fast tacks and pivot jibes.
Andy also suggested that I purchase the
Tricktionairy book
(in which he was photographed performing all of the windsurfing tricks). I
bought the book on Amazon, and it has fantastic details on all the windsurfing
techniques.
General Tips from Jem Hall:
- Upwind Stance Tip:
-
Look more upwind, place your hands closer together, and sail with your arms straighter.
-
Learn to lean the rig back and your body forward for better upwind
performance.
-
Practice sailing
one-handed
- Jumping Tip
-
Push on the back leg, pull up on the front leg, and open up the sail
- Duck Jibe Tip
-
Push the sail forward
- Tacking
- Stay low
- Head upwind
-
Bring the rear foot out of the back foot strap and place it near the front
foot.
- Rap front foot around the base of the mast
- Bring both arms to the front
- Push both heels to make the board turn upwind
- Grab the mast with your front arm
-
Step around the mast while moving it forward, and immediately push the
sail out while kicking the board with your front foot to turn it downwind,
keeping your body low.
Pivot Jibe Instructions
-
Head: Look before starting a jibe. Make a plan of where you want to jibe.
Visualize it.
-
Feet: Front foot in the foot-strap, rear foot on the centerline, in front
of the rear foot-strap
- Boom: Slide arm on the boom (for preparation to clew first sailing)
-
Mast: Push the mast into the wind while pushing on the rear leg. This will
initiate the pivot around the rear of the board.
- Tip: Use your legs to pivot the board downwind
- Tip: Open the sail as you turn
-
Body: Slide your hips in the direction of the turn and away from the sail
-
Clew: While sailing clew first, change feet positions. Front foot against
the mast (to lower the nose of the board)
-
Slide the front arm to the mast/boom front and flip the sail (underhand)
- Sheet in and sail away
Duck Jibe Instructions
-
Head: look before starting a jibe. Make a plan of where you want to jibe.
Visualize it
-
Hand: move your backhand far down the boom to allow for more control (when
sailing clew first later in the Jibe)
-
Hang: detach from harness lines and hang back to keep the speed up (you
should not slow down). Bend your knees and continue on a broad reach with
maximum speed.
-
Hoof: take the back foot off the strap and put the toe on the rail. The
back foot should be parallel to the front foot.
-
Push the front arm gently and release the boom. Do not put much pressure
on the board with your back foot.
-
Throw the boom end with your right arm and catch with both of your arms
- Change feet positions
- Sheet in and get into foot straps
Carving Jibe Instructions
-
Head: look before starting a jibe. Make a plan of where you want to
jibe. Visualize it
-
Hand: move your backhand far down the boom to allow for more control
(when sailing clew first later in the Jibe)
-
Hang: detach from harness lines and hang back to keep the speed up (you
should not slow down). Bend your knees and continue on a broad reach
with maximum speed.
-
Hoof: take the back foot off the strap and put the toe on the rail. The
back foot should be parallel to the front foot.
-
Push the front arm to initiate the turn while bending your knees. Do not
put much pressure on the board with your back foot.
-
A carving jibe requires a slight push on the boom (slow, steady pressure
is better than quick, sharp movements)
- TIP: Roll into the carve with your hips
-
When approaching a run, move the sail back into a clew-first sailing
position while switching foot positions: the front foot is taken out of
the foot strap and placed next to the rear foot, with the heel of the
foot on the rail. Gently place the new front foot on the rail. Keep
pushing on the rail with your heel to keep the board carving.
- Sail clew first, heading upwind.
-
To prepare for the sail flip, move the arm closer to the mast,
straighten the mast, and then let go of the sail with your other hand.
As the sail swings around, grab the opposite side of the boom with an
underhand grab (New Jersey style)
Carving Jibe as described on the
iWindsurf.com forum:
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The Best Jibe tip I ever got by Mike Fick
I'm a
world-class expert at jibes. Missing them, that is. I
failed 10,392 carving jibe attempts (i.e., planing all
the way from one beam reach to the next) before a
friend gave me a jibing tip that became crucial to my
jibing and thus changed my life. I added another tip
that significantly helps my board carve and sail jibe
timing.
Both are in this jibe procedure that works for me
in every type of carved (planing) jibe and even in
many sub-planing jibes. This sequence lets me exit a
carved jibe, going at least as fast as I entered it. It
doesn't require memorizing a repertoire of handwork
and footwork because the same simple handwork and
footwork work from mundane to monster winds.
1. Sail "faster
than you've ever sailed" 'til your eyes bleed, you
pee your pants, and your shadow is two seconds behind
you. (If you don't at least feel like you're
going that fast, you don't have time to bobble and
recover before you coast to a halt. Recovering from
bobbles to complete a jibe is a good sign that
you're developing a feel for jibes rather than
memorizing the steps.)
2. Bear off,
still sheeted in, to gain even more speed and to
steer from a beam reach into an extensive reach. (A
jibe is a 90-degree turn; you SAIL through the first
and last 45-degree segments of the 180-degree
turn.)
3. Move your backhand about a foot farther back on
the boom, switch your front grip to palm-up to aid
significantly the second THROW you'll see below,
unhook without disturbing the sail, and set your back
foot on the rail behind the front strap. You are
still sheeted in, sailing in a broad reach with your
sail foot near the back of your board. (Some expert jibers
bear off still hooked in, letting the harness pull
them forward into the correct weight-forward
position. The few times I've tried it, it felt good
and worked well, but it has
obvious hazards.)
4. Now, all in
the space of about one or two heartbeats -- virtually
simultaneously when possible -- point your knees and
chest further downwind and into your turn, curtsey
(you never bow; you CURTSEY, dropping your butt
towards your toes until your knees are bent 90
degrees and you're looking forward from BELOW the
boom), aggressively move (or let the sail pull)
your weight forward towards your toes, thrust and
lock your front elbow out straight as though you were
stiff-arming a tackler, tip that front hand (and the
mast) downwind as you bend your back elbow hard to
sheet in until your sail foot hits your back leg
(this is overshooting, to switch the power off), look
at the water maybe 50-100 feet out in front of you
where you will exit your Jibe (I look at some distant
landmark downwind to gauge my progress in my turn and
time my sail jibe), and lift your front heel to
force its arch into its strap. Your weight is riding
evenly on the ball of your front foot and your flat
back foot, so you're not carving the turn yet. You're
still on a broad reach, ready to jibe your board,
sail, and feet to the new tack.
If you could
not oversheet because of too much backhand sail
pressure, you (a) waited too late to oversheet and/or
(b) did not thrust the front hand forward and into
the turn. To correct this error, straighten
that front elbow and dramatically tip the mast into
the turn while you oversheet. This shuts off the power
in the sail, like a kill switch, and puts you back in
control. You don't want to oversheet when you're not
planning and need to use the sail to push your
board through the turn.
So far, this is
all just standard, textbook, powered-up
carved jibing. But here is where my friend's tip and
my own addition helped my jibing in several ways.
FREEZE FRAME:
Notice your arm and hand position; they're cocked as
though to fire a bow and arrow at a target downwind
of your present path (inside your turn). Your
backhand is cocked near your downwind shoulder as
though it were holding the bowstring and arrow
feathers; your front hand is way out there, holding
your bow and supporting the arrow. Both arms are
cocked to fire the arrow (spin the sail), but? When
should we jibe the sail?
My own
modification helped me time the sail jibe. I
began shoving my hips sideways into the turn HARD --
as though trying to bump the car door closed while
standing beside it with my arms full. This carves a
very tight, smooth turn and puts my body into an
excellent position to exit the turn with full power
on the new broad reach, automatically hooked and sheeted
in if everything falls into place nicely. This hip
swing weights the leeward rail to initiate and
maintain the carve and times the sail jibe (flip).
Your body should be arced into a pronounced C,
with your hips leading the convex side of the C into
the turn.
Because your
front hand is as far in front of you as you can
reach, yet you're thrusting your hips toward the
new direction, you will feel like you're trying to
surf your board in the opposite direction from where the
sail is going. The sail is still heading west, but
your board is starting to head east, so to speak. The
cure, of course, is to jibe the sail and take it along with
you.
Try it, but be forewarned; before you have time
to THINK about jibing the sail, you will whip through
the full 180 degrees in two heartbeats, get
backwinded, and crash. That's a significant improvement
because at least you carved (jibed) the board through
the turn. Now, all you have to do is disparage (flip)
your sail and Jibe (switch) your feet within that
same couple of heartbeats, and you're jibin'! This is
partly an issue of timing the sail jibe somewhere
within the board jibe.
Piece 'o
cake:
5. Back to our sequence: while you shove your hips
into the turn before you're pointing downwind,
the pressure will leave your sail. NOW fire the arrow
[i.e., Jibe (flip) the sail]. Just as the step jibe
technique calls for us to step forward while we
release the backhand, this technique works best if we
jibe the sail as we thrust the hip.
Right here is
where millions of carved jibe attempts fail. The magazines
once told us to release the backhand, grasp the mast,
let the wind blow the sail around the mast like
a barn door blowing around its hinges as you coast to
a slog, and when the sail wanders around far enough,
you take the new side of the boom and sail
away.
BS!
That has a MAJOR, fatal flaw: If you outrun the true
wind throughout your Jibe, as you should, there won't
BE any tailwind to push the sail around. You feel
tailwind only after you drop below the actual wind
speed, well on your way to dropping off a plane; at
this point, you're standing there at zero speed,
holding a fully powered-up sail. In the 15th century,
this position was known as a loaded catapult.
The sailor, not
the wind, should jibe the sail. We should SPIN that
sucker around its center of gravity like a top, not wait until we slow down so much that the tailwind
pushes the sail around the mast like a $1,500 barn
door. A jibe is a very aggressive mindset and process
that WE, not the wind, should control.
This is where
Monte changed my life when he said, "THROW, THROW,
GRAB, and GO!"
Only the sailor
can spin the sail inside its boom length; the wind
will undoubtedly not do it. At the hip thrust, just as you feel you and the sail are heading in
opposite directions, you THROW the back of the boom
away like a hot shot-putt. A millisecond later,
before you complete that first THROW, you THROW the
front of the boom across your face and past your downwind
ear, right into the new broad reach. Your mast hand
motion is like throwing a pass to a receiver running
right along your unique broad reach (your jibe exit
path). (This is why you inverted the front-hand grip;
this second throw is much easier with your palm up.)
The sail spins untouched before your heart beats
again, leaving the new side of the boom floating in
the air in front of you. GRAB it with both hands and GO
(i.e., sheet in and sail away on a screaming broad
reach, often flowing faster than you were going
before you jibed). With luck and practice, you will
switch your feet simultaneously within or immediately
after the second in which the sail rotates and will
exit, accelerating hard in the new broad reach. You
should lose no perceptible speed in the process
because a) it's all of the wind, and b) you're
coasting unpowered for only a second or two.
As soon as or
before I shove my hip into the turn, I stare at a
spot on the horizon just past downwind. If I
haven't spun the sail by then, I'm late and must stop
the carve and turn the sail NOW, or I'm going to be
on the new beam reach before I've jibed the sail, a
nd grabbing a sail at full power on a beam reach
before getting that back foot strapped in is asking
for a catapult.
Jibing quickly
like this doesn't give you TIME to lose speed, hit
three rows of swell, and lose your balance or crash.
From throwing the backhand away to sheeting in on the
new tack, my sail flip does not take a full second
when I do it right. The whole
Throw/Throw/Grab/Go business is just one continuous,
fluid, two-handed sweep of my hands and forearms, as
much like a Kung Fu move as I can make it. The exact
process works for 3.0s and 6.8s; the 6.8 just takes
harder THROWS and two heartbeats rather than
one.
The first one of those I tried was the most significant
revelation and revolution in my windsurfing life. No
more barn doors eating up precious seconds, mph, and
two boom-lengths of space while I fight for balance
over three of chop! This is partly why leading ABK
instructors have begun teaching this boom-to-boom
approach to jibing.
Oh, yeah -- the
feet. My feet are too far from my brain to access all
the complicated textbook footwork options, let alone
select a method in mid-jibe. The step jibe,
for example, requires we pull the front foot out of
its strap until its heel crosses the board
centerline, maintain inside rail pressure with that
front heel, and step forward with the back foot while
we do several OTHER things with our hands. That
footwork was too demanding for me. Besides, the step
jibe's purpose is to get our weight forward to avoid
sinking the tail after we slow down, and we want
to accelerate, not slow down, in our jibes.
6. I find it
simpler to just take my weight off both feet and
switch 'em simultaneously during any old
half-second I'm not steering with them. That works at
any speed, in any chop or swell, overpowered or
underpowered, planing or slogging, Sunday or
Wednesday, before or after the sail jibe, in an
instant, I'm not foot steering. If I'm
barely planing, I slip my new front foot further into
the step jibe position before reapplying weight to
it. Unweighing my feet and jibing them simultaneously
increased my jibe success rate. It ranges from merely
sliding both feet across the deck on smoother water
to hopping a foot off the deck in a huge chop. I'll
jibe my feet before, during, or (usually) immediately
after jibing the sail -- whenever it seems natural;
no thinking required.
On my bad days,
I might still miss half my jibes. Here are my more
common errors: * A face-plant inside the turn because I bent at the
waist? Bowing rather than curtseying into my turn. (I
can't perceive that error until too late since losing an
inner ear to surgery.) * Getting overpowered and pulled forward, maybe
even launched, when coming out of my Jibe if I jibe
the sail too late and/or carve back up to the new
beam reach before sheeting in. Fixing my eyes on that
landmark just past downwind and spinning the sail
simultaneously with the hip thrust stops
that. * I
got bounced around and unbalanced and lost my
carve in rough water because I failed to get that
front hand WAY out before me and tipped into the
turn. Now that we have the front hand palm-up,
straight-arming the rig like this is how we get our weight forward onto the
front of the
board to stop bouncing. * Getting tossed in a big chop because I didn't bend my
knees DRASTICALLY. * Being unable to oversheet because I bore off the wind
too far before trying to oversheet. The save? Shove
the mast WAY forward and inward as I oversheet (this
shuts off the power instantly), or foot-swerve back
to a beam reach, oversheet, then resume the Jibe all
in one quick slash. * Losing track of where I was in the turn because I
watched my gear or the water right before my board
rather than looking where I was going. You must look
where you intend to go rather than where you are
because our boards (cars and mountain bikes) follow our
gaze. Do you look at your dashboard or far ahead into
the turn to steer your car? I get my
best results looking at that spot on the horizon just
past downwind. * Sinking the downwind rail with too much rail pressure
for inadequate board speed. * Overthinking. I have my best successes when I get
PISSED OFF and JUST DO IT rather than engaging my
brain. My brain can't think in real-time about
the dozen or so steps required in a tight carved
jibe on a small board. A giant board and sail slow
the process sufficiently that I can think it
through.
Textbook footwork and all that
boom-to-mast-to-boom handwork work for millions of
people. But 1) I couldn't make them work; 2) they
leave other millions losing their plane before
completing their Jibe, and 3) they are not
as inherently fast and tight because they involve
more steps; they swing the sail through twice the space,
and they require greater coasting (unpowered)
time and space. Sarah James, a leading
ABK instructor, now teaches boom-to-boom jibing
instead of the old, more complicated, cumbersome,
slower boom-mast-boom method.
The
boom-to-boom sail jibe helps cure the following
aborted carved Jibe that I see every five seconds at
the amateur end of the Gorge's Hatchery: They enter
the Jibe fast, DELIBERATELY sail off the wind until
the board stops planing and the sail yanks their
backhand, release the backhand, let the sail take its
own sweet time blowing around the mast as the board
coasts to a standstill, then grab the new side of the
boom and try to get planing again. While that is a jibe,
it is NOT a carved or planing jibe, by definition.
And it's tough to do in big chop.
Aggression and
commitment are virtually required to carve planing
jibes. The wind has already done its job of getting us up
to speed; the actual Jibe is OUR
responsibility, after which the wind comes back into
play.
Try this. It sure made my decade.
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