Thursday, July 25, 2019

ABK Windsurfing Clinic at Sherman Island

Last year (2018), I took my first windsurfing lesson with Andy Brandt of the ABK Windsurfing Clinic at Sherman Island. I have been primarily self-taught in windsurfing (and had picked up many bad habits along the way). Andy significantly improved my sailing technique, and I was eager to become more proficient, especially in planing jibes, duck jibes, and tacking.


Day 1 - Thursday, July 25, 2019

With light traffic, I arrived at Sherman Island at around 08:45. At first, I parked by the power lines, but then I re-parked in the County Park to enable easier foil access to the playpen area.

We met with Andy, Brandon, and Derek in the morning - the ABK windsurfing crew. After a short introduction, we split into three separate groups. I was assigned to group 1, taught by Andy. He explained to us how to do a 360. It was too much for my ability.

Since the wind was very light, I rigged an Ezzy Elite 6.4m and tried my new Exocet RF81 with the Slingshot Infinity 76 wing. At first, I could not make it fly, but it took off briefly.



With the wind being relatively light, Andy decided to have a long lunch - from 12:00 to 15:00 - so we could sail in heavier winds. After eating my bagel sandwich, I tried foiling it a few more times and was able to get flying for a bit longer.

My Exocet RF81's footstraps were incorrectly set up, and I had to move them more inwards.


I re-rigged to an Ezzy Elite 5.7m and flew on multiple runs. I started to get the hang of it. When the board stopped making noise, I knew I was flying! It was a weird sensation. I felt out of control but found that moving forward on gusts helped.

I spent the rest of the day fooling around and getting more comfortable. I could point upwind or downwind without any issues.

Here is a GoPro Hero7 Black video of foiling at Sherman Island:



At around 18:20, we met around Andy's trailer and watched his video recording of progress. Then, we headed home. I arrived at 21:00, really tired and hungry.


Day 2 - Friday, July 26, 2019

I arrived earlier, leaving home at 06:45 to pick up my turkey bagel sandwich and drive to Sherman Island Park.

When I arrived, I prepared my Fanatic 105 STB (attaching the long True Ames 36" fin) since the American River was flooding. It is much harder to go upwind when both the wind and the tide are heading in the same direction.


In the morning section, I spent time with Andy, who helped improve my sailing technique, water-starting skills, and pivot jibing.

Andy Brandt's Windsurfing Pointers
  1. Water-starts
    • Only use the back leg
    • In lighter winds, instead of using the sail to pick you up, stand up with your rear leg
  2. Sailing Technique
    • Keep arms straight (not bent)
    • Keep harness lines long
    • The front toe is pointed in the direction of travel (not sideways)
    • The front leg is straight
    • The body should be straight
  3. Upwind technique
    • Move the front foot in front of the mast track
    • Don't fully power the sail; use rail pressure to sail upwind
  4. Pivot Jibe
    1. Before initiating the Jibe, move the arms far apart
    2. Switch your feet when starting to sail clew first
    3. Do not look down; look ahead
    4. Move the sail left (to turn the board right) or right (to turn the board left)
    5. When sailing clew first, the power is controlled by releasing pressure with the mast-arm

At noon, I was tired and returned to eat my turkey bagel sandwich for lunch. Since lunch was scheduled from 12:00 to 14:00, I sailed a bit from 13:00 to 14:00, practicing pivot jibes.

At 14:00, we met around Andy's Trailer and broke up into groups. I decided to work on tacks and went with Derek. He set me up on a big, comprehensive beginner windsurfing board so that I could have more tacking success.


I practiced many tacks and made quite a few, falling in many times.

Derek's Tacking Technique
  1. Take your feet out of the footstraps.
  2. Place your front foot ahead of the mast track while keeping all the weight on the rear foot.
    • Keep the toe of the front foot pointing down the board
    • Do not stick your butt out, keep your body straight
  3. Place your front hand on the mast below the boom
  4. Quickly step around the mast, taking a long step (as far as possible)
  5. If you stepped early, you might be back-winded, and in that case, you may need to push the sail forward
After two hours of tacking, the wind picked up, and I decided to try windsurfing using my Fanatic 105 STB. Even though a few people were planing,  I had difficulty getting in the straps. The Fanatic felt really small after spending time on the large beginner board.

At 17:20,  we reunited with Andy at his truck to watch videos of our practice sessions.

Day 3 - Saturday, July 27, 2019

Since I was exhausted and sore (and both hands had many callouses, I decided to skip). The weather was also not very favorable, with light winds in the forecast and extremely high temperatures (over 100 F) forecast.

I decided to spend the time recuperating with my family in Santa Cruz, where Alex surfed at The Hook.

Day 4 - Sunday, July 28, 2019

Even though I was tired, I wrapped band-aids around my fingers and prepared for another day of windsurfing at Sherman Island.

I picked up my usual poppy-seed bagel sandwich from the nearby House of Bagels and a blueberry muffin on my way to Sherman Island. I arrived at about 08:15 and set up all my gear to prepare for the clinic.

I removed the Fanatic 105 STB from the board bag and installed a slalom fin. I also installed the Slingshot 76cm Infinity wing into my Exocet RF81 board.

Since the wind was pretty light, I rigged my Ezzy Elite 6.4m sail and went to the ABK Tent for our morning lecture.

Derek taught the lesson on carve jibes, and I took a few essential pointers:

Derek's Carve Jibing Tips
  1. Before initiating a jibe, look around to make sure that the coast is clear
  2. Move your rear arm to the "clew" of the boom as far as possible.
  3. Unhook from the harness. There should be no difference in board speed.
  4. Take the rear foot out of the back foot strap and place it on the leeward rail.
    • The foot should be pointing in the direction of sailing (not sideways)
  5. Bend your knees and put light pressure on your toes to initiate the downwind turn
    • Do not twist your body
    • Apply light pressure to your front arm. 
    • The Front Arm should be straight (lock the elbow)
  6. As the board turns more downwind, you can increase the pressure so that you are almost standing on your tiptoes.
  7. When the board approaches 6 o'clock (bow and arrow position), take your front foot out of the front foot strap and place it perpendicular and against your other foot (the heel of the front foot should be touching the midsection of the rearfoot)
    • Be sure to keep the pressure on the heal of the rear foot
  8. Move your rear-most foot to the side of the mast track, being sure to exert heal pressure on both feet (To keep the board carving)
  9. Flip the sail so that you are sailing clew first. The mast arm can be used to modulate sail power
    • Do not move the mast past you
  10. As the board turns to 9 o'clock, move the arm closest to the boom closer to the mast.
  11. Release the other arm and catch the boom underhanded with your arm.
  12. Sheet in

These are lovely jibing tips, and I hope to try them soon. Even though the wind was light, I took out my Exocet RF81 and tried foiling. I sailed fine but was not able to get the foil flying.

After lunch, from 12:00 to 15:00, we had another lecture where Andy demonstrated his Sail-Chi. He could control the sail with many small movements, pushing different parts of the sail.

As the wind picked up, I decided to try foiling again. I could get the foil flying immediately this time and was incredibly overpowered. I foiled many very fast reaches and eventually returned to the cove.

Andy's Foiling Tips

  1. Keep the body straight and upright. If leaning, lean the whole body back
  2. Sail size is usually 1-2 sizes smaller than regular windsurfing
General advice: I need to spend quality time practicing on a more giant board in lighter winds to get better at fast tacks and pivot jibes.

Andy also suggested that I purchase the Tricktionairy book (in which he was photographed performing all of the windsurfing tricks). I bought the book on Amazon, and it has fantastic details on all the windsurfing techniques.




General Tips from Jem Hall:
  1. Upwind Stance Tip:
    1. Look more upwind, place your hands closer together, and sail with your arms straighter.
    2. Learn the rig back and your body forward for better upwind performance
    3. Practice sailing one-handed
  2. Jumping Tip
    1. Push on the back leg, pull up on the front leg, and open up the sail
  3. Duck Jibe Tip
    1. Push the sail forward
  4. Tacking
    1. Stay low

Fast Tack Instructions (TWS Tenerife)
  1. Head upwind
  2. Bring the rear foot out of the back foot strap and place it near the front foot.
  3. Rap front foot around the base of the mast
  4. Bring both arms to the front
  5. Push both heals to make the board turn upwind
  6. Grab the mast with your front arm
  7. Step around the mast while moving it forward and immediately push the sail out while kicking the board with your front foot to turn it downwind while keeping your body low.
Pivot Jibe Instructions
  1. Head: look before starting a jibe. Make a plan of where you want to jibe. Visualize it.
  2. Feet: Front foot in the foot-strap, rear foot on the centerline, in front of the rear foot-strap
  3. Boom: Slide arm on the boom (for preparation to clew first sailing)
  4. Mast: Push the mast into the wind while pushing on the rear leg. This will initiate the pivot around the rear of the board. 
  5. Tip: Use your legs to pivot the board downwind
  6. Tip: Open the sail as your turn
  7. Body: Slide your hips in the direction of the turn and away from the sail
  8. Clew: While sailing clew first, change feet positions. Front foot against the mast (to lower the nose of the board)
  9. Slide the front arm to the mast/boom front and flip the sail (underhand)
  10. Sheet in and sail away

Duck Jibe Instructions
  1. Head: look before starting a jibe. Make a plan of where you want to jibe. Visualize it
  2. Hand: move your backhand far down the boom to allow for more control (when sailing clew first later in the Jibe)
  3. Hang: detach from harness lines and hang back to keep the speed up (you should not slow down). Bend your knees and continue on a broad reach with maximum speed.
  4. Hoof: take the back foot of the strap and put the toe on the rail. The back foot should be parallel to the front foot.
  5. Push the front arm gently and release the boom. Do not put much pressure on the board with your back foot. 
  6. Throw the boom end with your right arm and catch with both of your arms
  7. Change feet positions
  8. Sheet in and get into foot straps

Carving Jibe Instructions
  1. Head: look before starting a jibe. Make a plan of where you want to jibe. Visualize it
  2. Hand: move your backhand far down the boom to allow for more control (when sailing clew first later in the Jibe)
  3. Hang: detach from harness lines and hang back to keep the speed up (you should not slow down). Bend your knees and continue on a broad reach with maximum speed.
  4. Hoof: take the back foot of the strap and put the toe on the rail. The back foot should be parallel to the front foot.
  5. Push the front arm to initiate the turn while bending your knees. Do not put much pressure on the board with your back foot. 
  6. A carving jibe requires a slight push on the boom (slow, steady pressure is better than quick, sharp movements)
  7. TIP: Roll into the carve with your hips
  8. When approaching a run, move the sail back into a clew first sailing position while switching foot positions: the front foot is taken out of the foot strap and placed next to the rear foot, with the heel of the foot on the rail. The new front foot is gently placed on the rail. Keep pushing on the rail with your heel to keep the board carving.
  9. Sail clew first, heading upwind.
  10. To prepare for the sail flip, move the arm closer to the mast, straighten the mast, and then let go of the sail with your other hand. As the sail swings around, grab the opposite side of the boom with an underhand grab (New Jersey style)
Carving Jibe as described on the iWindsurf.com forum:

The Best Jibe tip I ever got by Mike Fick 

I'm a world-class expert at jibes. Missing them, that is. I failed 10,392 carving jibe attempts (i.e., planing all the way from one beam reach to the next) before a friend gave me a jibing tip that became crucial to my jibing and thus changed my life. I added another tip that significantly helps my board carve and sail jibe timing. 

Both are in this jibe procedure that works for me in every type of carved (planing) jibe and even in many sub-planing jibes. This sequence lets me exit a carved jibe, going at least as fast as I entered it. It doesn't require memorizing a repertoire of handwork and footwork because the same simple handwork and footwork work from mundane to monster winds. 

1. Sail "faster than you've ever sailed" 'til your eyes bleed, you pee your pants, and your shadow is two seconds behind you. (If you don't at least feel like you're going that fast, you don't have time to bobble and recover before you coast to a halt. Recovering from bobbles to complete a  jibe is a good sign that you're developing a feel for jibes rather than memorizing the steps.) 

2. Bear off, still sheeted in, to gain even more speed and to steer from a beam reach into an extensive reach. (A jibe is a 90-degree turn; you SAIL through the first and last 45-degree segments of the 180-degree turn.) 

3. Move your backhand about a foot farther back on the boom, switch your front grip to palm-up to aid significantly the second THROW you'll see below, unhook without disturbing the sail, and set your back foot on the rail behind the front strap. You are still sheeted in, sailing in a broad reach with your sail foot near the back of your board. (Some expert jibers bear off still hooked in, letting the harness pull them forward into the correct weight-forward position. The few times I've tried it, it felt good and worked well, but it has obvious hazards.) 

4. Now, all in the space of about one or two heartbeats -- virtually simultaneously when possible -- point your knees and chest further downwind and into your turn, curtsey (you never bow; you CURTSEY, dropping your butt towards your toes until your knees are bent 90 degrees and you're looking forward from BELOW the boom), aggressively move (or let the sail pull) your weight forward towards your toes, thrust and lock your front elbow out straight as though you were stiff-arming a tackler, tip that front hand (and the mast) downwind as you bend your back elbow hard to sheet in until your sail foot hits your back leg (this is overshooting, to switch the power off), look at the water maybe 50-100 feet out in front of you where you will exit your Jibe (I look at some distant landmark downwind to gauge my progress in my turn and time my sail jibe), and lift your front heel to force its arch into its strap. Your weight is riding evenly on the ball of your front foot and your flat back foot, so you're not carving the turn yet. You're still on a broad reach, ready to jibe your board, sail, and feet to the new tack). 

If you could not oversheet because of too much backhand sail pressure, you (a) waited too late to oversheet and/or (b) did not thrust the front hand forward and into the turn. To correct this error, straighten that front elbow and dramatically tip the mast into the turn while you oversheet. This shuts off the power in the sail, like a kill switch, and puts you back in control. You don't want to oversheet when you're not planning and need to use the sail to push your board through the turn. 

So far, this is all just standard, textbook, powered-up carved jibing. But here is where my friend's tip and my own 
addition helped my jibing in several ways. 

FREEZE FRAME: Notice your arm and hand position; they're cocked as though to fire a bow and arrow at a target downwind of your present path (inside your turn). Your backhand is cocked near your downwind shoulder as though it were holding the bowstring and arrow feathers; your front hand is way out there, holding your bow and supporting the arrow. Both arms are cocked to fire the arrow (spin the sail), but? When should we jibe the sail? 

My own modification helped me time the sail jibe. I began shoving my hips sideways into the turn HARD -- as though trying to bump the car door closed while standing beside it with my arms full. This carves a very tight, smooth turn and puts my body into an excellent position to exit the turn with full power on the new broad reach, automatically hooked and sheeted in if everything falls into place nicely. This hip swing weights the leeward rail to initiate and maintain the carve and times the sail jibe (flip). Your body should be arced into a pronounced C, with your hips leading the convex side of the C into the turn. 

Because your front hand is as far in front of you as you can reach, yet you're thrusting your hips toward the new direction, you will feel like you're trying to surf your board in the opposite direction from where the sail is going. The sail is still heading west, but your board is starting to head east, so to speak. The cure, of course, is 
to jibe the sail and take it along with you. 

Try it, but be forewarned; before you have time to THINK about jibing the sail, you will whip through the full 180 degrees in two heartbeats, get backwinded, and crash. That's a significant improvement because at least you carved (jibed) the board through the turn. Now, all you have to do is disparage (flip) your sail and Jibe (switch) your feet within that same couple of heartbeats, and you're jibin'! This is partly an issue of timing the sail jibe somewhere within the board jibe. 

Piece 'o cake: 

5. Back to our sequence: while you shove your hips into the turn before you're pointing downwind, the pressure will leave your sail. NOW fire the arrow [i.e., Jibe (flip) the sail]. Just as the step jibe technique calls for us to step forward while we release the backhand, this technique works best if we jibe the sail as we thrust the hip. 

Right here is where millions of carved jibe attempts fail. The magazines once told us to release the backhand, grasp the mast, let the wind blow the sail around the mast like a barn door blowing around its hinges as you coast to a slog, and when the sail wanders around far enough, you take the new side of the boom and sail away. 

BS! 

That has a MAJOR, fatal flaw: If you outrun the true wind throughout your Jibe, as you should, there won't BE any tailwind to push the sail around. You feel tailwind only after you drop below the actual wind speed, well on your way to dropping off a plane; at this point, you're standing there at zero speed, holding a fully powered-up sail. In the 15th century, this position was known as a loaded catapult. 

The sailor, not the wind, should jibe the sail. We should SPIN that sucker around its center of gravity like a top, 
not wait until we slow down so much that the tailwind pushes the sail around the mast like a $1,500 barn door. A jibe is a very aggressive mindset and process that WE, not the wind, should control. 

This is where Monte changed my life when he said, "THROW, THROW, GRAB, and GO!" 

Only the sailor can spin the sail inside its boom length; the wind will undoubtedly not do it. At the hip thrust, 
just as you feel you and the sail are heading in opposite directions, you THROW the back of the boom away like a hot shot-putt. A millisecond later, before you complete that first THROW, you THROW the front of the boom across your face and past your downwind ear, right into the new broad reach. Your mast hand motion is like throwing a pass to a receiver running right along your unique broad reach (your jibe exit path). (This is why you inverted the front-hand grip; this second throw is much easier with your palm up.) The sail spins untouched before your heart beats again, leaving the new side of the boom floating in the air in front of you. GRAB it with both hands and GO (i.e., sheet in and sail away on a screaming broad reach, often flowing faster than you were going before you jibed). With luck and practice, you will switch your feet simultaneously within or immediately after the second in which the sail rotates and will exit, accelerating hard in the new broad reach. You should lose no perceptible speed in the process because a) it's all of the wind, and b) you're coasting unpowered for only a second or two. 

As soon as or before I shove my hip into the turn, I stare at a spot on the horizon just past downwind. If I haven't spun the sail by then, I'm late and must stop the carve and turn the sail NOW, or I'm going to be on the new beam reach before I've jibed the sail and grabbing a sail at full power on a beam reach before getting that back foot strapped in is asking for a catapult. 

Jibing quickly like this doesn't give you TIME to lose speed, hit three rows of swell, and lose your balance or crash. From throwing the backhand away to sheeting in on the new tack, my sail flip does not take a full second when I do it right. The whole Throw/Throw/Grab/Go business is just one continuous, fluid, two-handed sweep of my hands and forearms, as much like a Kung Fu move as I can make it. The exact process works for 3.0s and 6.8s; the 6.8 just takes harder THROWS and two heartbeats rather than one. 

The first one of those I tried was the most significant revelation and revolution in my windsurfing life. No more barn doors eating up precious seconds, mph, and two boom-lengths of space while I fight for balance over three of chop! This is partly why leading ABK instructors have begun teaching this boom-to-boom approach to jibing. 

Oh, yeah -- the feet. My feet are too far from my brain to access all the complicated textbook footwork options, let alone select a method in mid-jibe. The step jibe, for example, requires we pull the front foot out of its strap until its heel crosses the board centerline, maintain inside rail pressure with that front heel, and step forward with the back foot while we do several OTHER things with our hands. That footwork was too demanding for me. Besides, the step jibe's purpose is to get our weight forward to avoid sinking the tail after we slow down, and we want to accelerate, not slow down, in our jibes. 

6. I find it simpler to just take my weight off both feet and switch 'em simultaneously during any old half-second I'm not steering with them. That works at any speed, in any chop or swell, overpowered or underpowered, planing or slogging, Sunday or Wednesday, before or after the sail jibe, in an instant, I'm not foot steering. If I'm barely planing, I slip my new front foot further into the step jibe position before reapplying weight to it. Unweighing my feet and jibing them simultaneously increased my jibe success rate. It ranges from merely sliding both feet across the deck on smoother water to hopping a foot off the deck in a huge chop. I'll jibe my feet before, during, or (usually) immediately after jibing the sail -- whenever it seems natural; no thinking required. 

On my bad days, I might still miss half my jibes. Here are my more common errors: 
* A face-plant inside the turn because I bent at the waist? Bowing rather than curtseying into my turn. (I can't 
perceive that error until too late since losing an inner ear to surgery.) 
* Getting overpowered and pulled forward, maybe even launched, when coming out of my Jibe if I jibe the sail too late and/or carved back up to the new beam reach before sheeting in. Fixing my eyes on that landmark just past downwind and spinning the sail simultaneously with the hip thrust stops that. 
* I got bounced around and unbalanced and lost my carve in rough water because I failed to get that front hand WAY out before me and tipped into the turn. Now that we have the front hand palm-up, straight-arming the rig 
like this is how we get our weight forward onto the front 
of the board to stop bouncing. 
* Getting tossed in a big chop because I didn't bend my knees DRASTICALLY. 
* Being unable to oversheet because I bore off the wind too far before trying to oversheet. The save? Shove the mast WAY forward and inward as I oversheet (this shuts off the power instantly), or foot-swerve back to a beam reach, oversheet, then resume the Jibe all in one quick slash. 
* Losing track of where I was in the turn because I watched my gear or the water right before my board rather than looking where I was going. You must look where you intend to go rather than where you are because our boards (cars and mountain bikes) follow our gaze. Do you look at your dashboard or far ahead into the turn to steer your car? I get my best results looking at that spot on the horizon just past 
downwind. 
* Sinking the downwind rail with too much rail pressure for 
inadequate board speed. 
* Overthinking. I have my best successes when I get PISSED OFF and JUST DO IT rather than engaging my brain. My brain can't think in real-time about the dozen or so steps required in a tight carved jibe on a small board. A giant board and sail slow the process sufficiently that I can think it through. 

Textbook footwork and all that boom-to-mast-to-boom handwork work for millions of people. But 1) I couldn't make them work; 2) they leave other millions losing their plane before completing their Jibe, and 3) they are not as inherently fast and tight because they involve more steps; they swing the sail through twice the space, and they require greater coasting (unpowered) time and space. Sarah James, a leading ABK instructor, now teaches boom-to-boom jibing instead of the old, more complicated, cumbersome, slower boom-mast-boom method. 

The boom-to-boom sail jibe helps cure the following aborted carved Jibe that I see every five seconds at the amateur end of the Gorge's Hatchery: They enter the Jibe fast, DELIBERATELY sail off the wind until the board stops planing and the sail yanks their backhand, release the backhand, let the sail take its own sweet time blowing around the mast as the board coasts to a standstill, then grab the new side of the boom and try to get planing again. While that is a jibe, it is NOT a carved or planing jibe, by definition. And it's tough to do in big chop. 

Aggression and commitment are virtually required to carve planing jibes. The wind has already done its job of getting us up to speed; the actual Jibe is OUR responsibility, after which the wind comes back into play. 

Try this. It sure made my decade.

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