Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Hiking Verwall Trail in St. Anton

Wednesday, December 25, 2024

After breakfast, we decided to head into town and try hiking the Verwall Trail around Verwall Lake (the trail starts at  Hotel Mooserkreuz). 

According to our hotel's concierge and Snow-Online:

Verwall trail is considered one of the most beautiful trail sections in Austria. This 10-kilometer intermediate route starts near Hotel Mooserkreuz and leads into the scenic Verwall Valley.
Our hotel's shuttle quickly dropped us off at the Nasserein bus stop, where we boarded the free local bus No. 3 and rode a few more stops southwards. There, we boarded a different bus that dropped us off near Hotel Mooserkreuz. Since we forgot to bring the trail map, we stopped by Hotel Mooserkreuz for more explicit trail directions and learned that the trail started right across the street.



Upon entering the trail, we saw signs for Verwall Trail "Loipe Verwall", and a list of open cross-country trails. As we started our hike on the snow-cleared road (also frequented by buses), we saw nearby cross-country tracks (with well-defined lanes for each ski). 



We encountered many groups on the trail, including cross-country skiers, hikers, and dog walkers. 

Next time, bring cross-country skis!

After a 50-minute walk, we reached the Wagner Huette (which was quite busy) and were happy to learn that it was open on Christmas Day. We decided to stop for lunch (and to warm up) and sat down at an indoor table. We ordered the following lunch items:
  • Boris: Warm Glühwein, Goulash (Hungarian Soup), Sparkling water
  • Inna: Latte, Beef Soup with dumplings
I liked the warm Glühwein (wine), and my Goulash soup with a bread roll was delicious. Inna's Beef Soup was quite good, too. We heard a lot of English spoken, and many British skiers were dining there. St. Anton is extremely popular with British skiers, due to its reliable snowfall and vibrant après-ski scene (Krazy Kangaroo and Moosewirt).



We also noticed many downhill skiers and snowboarders arriving, so this trail is linked to St. Anton am Arlberg. After reaching this area, they board buses to return to the resort.



We realized we had not yet reached Verwall Lake and decided to continue on. We hiked further south, finding the snow-covered Verwall Lake (with small patches still unfrozen). As we continued hiking around the lake, we realized we needed to return to Wagner Huette because the rest of the trail was for cross-country skiers only (not hikers).



We decided to stop again at the Wagner Hutte to warm up before continuing on our hike. We ordered the following items (and shared a table with another Austrian couple). The Apple Strudel was enormous (and delicious), and the hot chocolate helped! 
  • Boris: Hot Chocolate, Apple Strudel
  • Inna: Hot Tea
It took us 3 hours to hike the 6.5-mile loop. Many sections of the Verwall Trail were slightly uphill and covered with freshly fallen snow, slowing forward progress. This trail could also be fun on cross-country skis (provided one knew how to brake in the downhill sections).



When we finished the trail, we ordered an UberX to take us back to our hotel. (We could have tried to ride the free buses back, but it would have taken a lot more time.)

 

Verwall Trail Report

Highlights
  • Enjoying the beautiful hike around Verwall Lake
  • Dining at Wagner Hutte
Lowlights
  • Not bringing our cross-country skis to this trail
Links

Monday, December 23, 2024

Snowboarding Ski Arlberg

I reserved two days of snowboarding, with the idea of extending it by one additional day if the snow conditions were excellent.


Here is a map of the Ski Arlberg Ski Resort:



Sunday, December 22, 2024 - Renting Snowboards
 
After lunch, we boarded the hotel's shuttle for a short ride to Nasserein, where we stopped by Alber Sport to pick up our rented snowboards.

We first tried out various snowboard boots, and Alex found that the K2 Maysis (10.5", 28.5 cm) fit his feet well. These same boots also worked for me (Alex and I have the same shoe size), but Alber Sport did not have any additional boots in this size. I had to rent a larger boot (11', 29cm), which was too large (and my foot moved around too much).



For snowboards, Alex selected a Burton Custom 168W (wide) version for better float on powder. I selected a similarly sized Capita Defenders of Awesome 163W snowboard. We also selected large helmets and picked our storage lockers (our hotel provided us with free locker access).

Both of our snowboards were set up with standard bindings. 

My snowboard was configured for the following duck stance:
  • +15 degrees (angled forward) for the front foot
  • -9 degrees (angled backward) in a classic duck stance. 
In general, a freeride snowboarding setup calls for the following duck stance:
  • +18 degrees for the forward foot
  • -6 degrees on the back foot
After we dropped off our boards in locker #142, we talked to Inna, who was also finishing up her cross-country ski rental. She planned to cross-country ski the next day and stored her gear in locker #143. The lockers can be opened with the St. Anton Ski Pass (once registered in the system).


Monday, December 23, 2024 - First Day of Snowboarding

We arrived at Nasserein at around 08:30 and had our lockers opened. We put on our snowboard boots and helmets. I noticed that my snowboard boots were too big and decided to try to change them later that day (which I did).



We boarded the Nasserein Gondola (there was a very long line, mostly of skiers). It was not very orderly, but we managed to get on and make it there. 
 
 Here is a GoPro Hero11 video that I recorded on the first run down the mountain.


 
 
The weather started sunny and beautiful, and not overly cold.
  



We boarded the Kapallbahn chairlift and snowboarded down nearby trails multiple times. The mountain had light powder, and we had an enjoyable time snowboarding down.



For lunch, we stopped at the Gampen Lodge/Restaurant. It's a very quaint, modern lodge with excellent facilities. We found a table and dropped off our wet gear (sharing it with another party). We ordered the following items:
  • Boris: Wiener Schnitzel with Fries, Pretzel, Hot Chocolate with Cream, Sparkling Water
  • Alex: Wiener Schnitzel with Fries, Hot Chocolate with Cream, Sparkling Water
The schnitzel was excellent, and the hot chocolate hit the spot!  The pretzel was not bad either. Given the amount of food and drinks, the overall cost was very reasonable at 60 euros. 



After lunch, we tried snowboarding on a different part of the mountain. By this time, the weather had turned cloudy, with very low visibility and blistering winds. Riding the chairlifts was less enjoyable, and seeing the moguls was more difficult.



My left foot started to hurt (probably because of the oversized snowboarding boot I was wearing). I had to overtighten it multiple times because my foot kept sliding around in it. 



At around 14:00, we stopped by the Gampen Lodge again for Hot Chocolate (to warm up). We rode the Nasserein Gondola back down because visibility was abysmal. We stopped by Alber Sport to drop off our snowboards and boots. Luckily, the shop had a smaller boot for me, and I swapped out my oversized snowboarding boots! After storing all the gear in the locker, we returned to the nearby shuttle/bus stop.



We met up with Inna (who had returned from her cross-country skiing adventure) and waited for the hotel shuttle to pick us up. At 13:30, the shuttle came by, and we were back in our hotel, resting. 


Tuesday, December 24, 2024 - Second Day Snowboarding

We arrived at Nasserein at around 08:45 and had our lockers opened. We put on our snowboard boots and helmets. Finally, my snowboard boots were the right size!



We boarded the Nasserein Gondola (there was a very short line, quite unexpected for Christmas Eve!).  
 
Here are a couple of GoPro Hero11 videos I recorded on this fabulous day:
 
 
Here is another GoPro Hero11 video:



 The weather was a bit cloudy, with light snow falling.



We did not expect such deep powder coverage. The snow forecast called for 4 inches, but there was a couple of feet of fresh powder on the tracks. 

It was awesome! An epic powder day!

We boarded the Kapallbahn chairlift and snowboarded down nearby trails multiple times. We were thrilled to have the chance to snowboard on such fantastic, fresh powder.



For lunch, we stopped at the Gampen Lodge/Restaurant. We found a table and dropped off our wet gear (sharing it with another party). 

My Telesin G3 carbon selfie stick (used to hold the GoPro Hero11 Black mini) had jammed during previous runs, and I tried to clear the jam, eventually succeeding. I also charged the GoPro Hero11, whose battery had died.

At the Gamden Lodge, we ordered the following items.
  • Boris: Spaghetti Bolognese, Espresso, Sparkling Water, Chocolate
  • Alex: Beef Soup, Latte, Sparkling Water
My Spaghetti Bolognese portion was huge and so delicious! I really enjoyed it! Alex liked his soup so much, he returned for a 2nd helping.



We continued to snowboard after lunch for a few more runs. We stopped by the Gampen Lodge for a light snack, where I ordered another espresso and chocolate (while Alex had a latte).

As my feet were tired and my left foot was hurting, we decided to end the day and ride the Nasserein Gondola back down to the village. We returned our snowboards, boots, and helmets and boarded the hotel shuttle to our hotel.

We were surprised to discover Christmas Presents from both the hotel (chocolates and a bottle of wine) and from Inna. It was very kind and thoughtful!
 
Snowboarding St. Anton Report

Highlights
  • Epic Powder Day on Tuesday, December 24
  • Light powder day on Monday, December 23

Lowlights
  • Alber Sport did not have the correct size snowboard boot for me
    • Due to the oversized boot, I developed numbness in my left foot
Links
 

Enjoying St. Anton amd Arlberg

The famous Austrian village of St. Anton am Arlberg has long been a dream ski destination for me, so I was excited when Inna reserved four nights at the Pfeffermühle Hotel in St. Anton from December 22 - 26, 2024.



Pfeffermühle Hotel recommended renting skis and snowboards from Alber Sport (which also has on-site ski storage lockers). The closest shop was at Alber Sport Nasserein (a few bus stops from the hotel). Alber Sport Nasserein opens at 08:30 and closes at 18:30.

I reserved two days of snowboarding, with the idea of extending it by one additional day, if the snow conditions were excellent.


Sunday, December 22, 2024

At 13:10, our train arrived at St. Anton am Arlberg Train Station in Austria. We handled our 3 large suitcases and noticed the beautiful snowy surroundings. The forecast called for heavy snow and cold weather. I had contacted the hotel about my arrival and expected the shuttle to be waiting for me.



As we stepped out of the train station, I noticed the van with the hotel's logo. We quickly boarded the hotel van and were dropped off at the hotel. We checked into our room #202. 

Our hotel room was charming and well thought out, with good storage and beautiful, large windows overlooking the countryside. The bathroom had a separate shower and bathtub. Alex's bed was in a separate nook (with large windows overlooking the countryside). 



After unpacking our suitcases and a quick rest, we walked downstairs for a light lunch. We ordered the following items from the small lunch menu at Hotel Zur Pfeffermühle (Pepper Mill):
  • Boris: Tafelspitz soup (beef)
  • Inna: Tafelspitz soup (beef)
  • Alex: Wiener Schnitzel with fries
  • Dessert: Apple Strudel
After lunch, we boarded the hotel's shuttle for a short ride to Nasserein, where we stopped by Alber Sport to pick up our rented snowboards, boots, and helmets.

We first tried out various snowboarding boots, and Alex found that the K2 Maysis (10.5", 28.5 cm) fit his feet well. These same K2 boots also worked for me (Alex and I have the same shoe size), but Alber Sport did not have any additional boots in this size. I had to rent a larger boot (11', 29 cm), which was too large (and my foot moved around too much).

For snowboards, Alex selected a Burton Custom 168W (wide) version for better float on powder. I selected a similarly sized Capita Defenders of Awesome 163W snowboard. We also selected large helmets and picked our storage lockers (our hotel provided us with free locker access).

Both of our snowboards were set up with standard bindings. My snowboard was configured for the following duck stance:
  • +15 degrees (angled forward) for the front foot
  • -9 degrees (angled backward) in a classic duck stance. 
In general, a freeride snowboarding configuration calls for the following duck stance:
  • +18 degrees for the forward foot
  • -6 degrees on the back foot
After we dropped off our boards in locker #142, we talked to Inna, who was also finishing up her cross-country ski rental. She planned to cross-country ski the next day and stored her gear in locker #143. The lockers can be opened with the St. Anton Ski Pass (once registered in the system).



We explored this part of the village for a bit (there wasn't much there) and stopped for a snack at the Der Backer Ruetz bakery in Nasserein. We ordered the following treats:
  • Pastries:Kaisergolatsche, Nougat-Vanilla-Kipferl, Dinkel-Mohn-Stangerl
  • Boris: Espresso
  • Inna: Latte Macchiato
  • Alex: Latte Macchiato
The pastries were all delicious and reasonably priced! I wish such high-quality pastries were available at my nearby Lake Tahoe (Palisades, Kirkwood)  or Mammoth ski resorts!



We decided to walk southward toward the rest of the village to see St. Anton's Christmas Markets. Alex also decided to work out at the nearby Arlberg WellCom fitness center. He separated from us and walked to the Arlberg WellCom on his own. He worked out (lifted weights) for 30 minutes and found the fitness equipment unimpressive. He rejoined us later on (when we were returning from our walk).



Inna and continued our walk on Dorfstrasse toward Museum St. Anton am Arlberg. There was a giant decorated Christmas Tree on display, a petting zoo (where kids could pet miniature horses), and stands selling drinks. 



There was also a holiday choir singing Christmas songs in German. There were also various carvings of Jesus and the Three Wise Men from the Christmas Nativity Scene. We shared a glass of warm Glühwein and enjoyed the festive atmosphere.



We met up with Alex on the way back and ordered an UberX to take us back to Hotel Zur Pfeffermühle.



After resting for a few minutes and changing out of our clothes, we dined at our assigned table (each room gets its own privately assigned dining table) at 19:45. We selected the following items:
  • Appetizer: Salad Bar with mushrooms, deli meats, bread
  • Soup: Cream of Celery with Bacon
  • Boris: Beef Tafelspitz
  • Alex: Beef Tafelspitz
  • Inna: Salmon Trout
  • Dessert: Kaiserschmarrn, Strawberry Sherbet
We enjoyed our dinner but were very tired and went to bed around midnight. 





Monday, December 23, 2024

In the morning, I woke at around 06:30 but slept until 06:56. I showered and dressed for an early breakfast, eager to snowboard on San Anton's slopes (before everyone else). Alex also dressed quickly. 



At 07:45, we walked downstairs (being the first people for breakfast). It was still dark outside (early dawn), but the light was starting to emerge. We ordered some scrambled eggs and selected a few items from the buffet:
  • Boris: Scrambled Eggs, Yogurt with Granola, Coffee
  • Inna: Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Cappuccino
  • Alex: Yogurt, Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Coffee
Alex and I finished breakfast first, then raced to get dressed for snowboarding and catch the next hotel shuttle to Nasserein. Inna was in less of a hurry, as she was planning to cross-country ski on her own.
 
I write about snowboarding at St. Anton in a separate blog post here:

We met up with Inna (who had returned from her cross-country skiing adventure) and waited for the hotel shuttle to pick us up. At 13:30, the shuttle came by, and we were back in our hotel, resting. Alex took a long bath, while Inna and I snacked on macarons and pastries with hot black tea. 



I rested in the room for a bit, and then Inna and I decided to try the multiple saunas. I walked downstairs and tried multiple saunas (each at a different temperature). After showering, Inna and I rested in the nearby quiet room. I continued reading Ian Fleming's autobiography on my Kindle, and Inna read hers as well.



At around 19:00, we returned downstairs for our dinner. We were provided with the following items:
  • Drinks: Sparkling Water, Radler (beer + lemonade)
  • Soup: Tomato Soup
  • Main: Sea Bass
  • Dessert: Pancake with curdled cheese

Tuesday, December 24, 2024

In the morning, I woke at around 07:00. It had snowed overnight, and I was expecting an epic day of powder snowboarding. It did not disappoint!



I showered, shaved, and dressed for an early breakfast. Alex also dressed quickly, and we waited for Inna to get ready. At 08:00, we walked downstairs for breakfast. It was still dark outside, but the light was starting to emerge. We ordered some scrambled eggs and selected a few items from the buffet:
  • Boris: Scrambled Eggs, Yogurt with Granola, Coffee
  • Inna: Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Cappuccino
  • Alex: Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Coffee
Alex and I finished breakfast first, then raced to get dressed for snowboarding and catch the next hotel shuttle to Nasserein. Inna was in less of a hurry, as she was going to visit the village later.


 
I write about snowboarding at St. Anton in a separate blog post here:
On returning to the hotel, we were surprised to discover Christmas Presents from both the hotel (chocolates and a bottle of wine) and from Inna. It was very kind and thoughtful!

Inna had already returned to the hotel (from her day of shopping in the village). She was already relaxing in the sauna. I went downstairs to enjoy the sauna and read my Kindle. I started reading 
Alex decided to take a long bath and relax.



For dinner, the hotel prepared a specialty meal at 19:15. We dressed and went downstairs at 18:30 to enjoy a few drinks and socialize. Inna ordered a margarita (quite delicious and unique), and I ordered some sparkling wine. Inna's drink was much better! Alex ordered some sparkling water (as he was avoiding alcohol).



Our elaborate 6-course Christmas dinner included the following items:
  • Scallop carpaccio with whey stock, lime, and poppy seed miso
  • Cream of Parsley root soup with quail galantine and egg white
  • Slow-cooked mountain char on a camomile and rapeseed broth with caviar and radishes
  • Fillet of milk-fed veal on yellow beetroot with sunflower seeds, egg yolk cream, and more cream jus
  • Warm-grey cattle Camembert cheese with cranberry sorbet and lemon emulsion
  • Layered apple on pecan nuts with pistachio crumble, sheep's cheese ice cream, and vanilla cream
We enjoyed the elaborate Christmas Dinner, but it was lengthy, lasting over 2.5 hours.





Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Merry Christmas!

In the morning, I woke at around 08:00. I showered and dressed for breakfast. Inna was not feeling well and slept until 08:45.



At 09:15, we walked downstairs for breakfast, ordering the following items:
  • Boris: Omelet, Yogurt with Granola, Austrian Pancakes with Hazelnut and Marmalade, Coffee
  • Inna: Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Cappuccino
  • Alex: Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Coffee
After breakfast, Alex decided to work out at the Arlberg Wellcom gym, while we decided to hike the Verwall Trail, about which I write in a separate blog post here:
After we returned to our hotel, we spent some time in our hotel's lobby, drinking hot tea and trying small snacks, including lasagna and gingerbread cookies. The lasagna was made with unusual cheese (at least to me) and tasted different from standard Italian lasagnas.



At around 17:00, we decided to visit the saunas. I spent 15 minutes in one sauna, showered, and rested in the quiet room. I finished reading Private by Kate Brian (which I didn't like).



At around 19:15, we headed downstairs for our last dinner. We enjoyed the following items:
  • Salad Bar (where I primarily selected fresh cheeses)
  • Marinated yellowfin tuna carpaccio with avocado, peppers, and passion fruit
  • Truffled Topinambur (Jerusalem Artichoke) cream soup
  • Medium roasted saddle of beef with chives and mashed potatoes with green asparagus
  • Walnut tart with glazed grapes and yuzu apple sorbet
Dinner was excellent as usual, and I especially enjoyed the saddle of beef. We really enjoyed having our own assigned dinner table each night and the flexibility of dining from 18:30 - 20:20 without worrying about dinner reservations.


Thursday,  December 26, 2024

I came down with a cold (I had severe nasal congestion and pain in my throat) and did not sleep during the night. I woke at 08:00, showered, shaved, and dressed. I started packing my suitcase and carry-on backpack. When both Alex and Inna were ready, we walked downstairs for our last breakfast at Hotel Zur Pfeffermühle.



As usual, we ordered scrambled eggs from our waitress (and picked up the other items ourselves from the self-serve island):
  • Boris: Yogurt with Granola, Deli. Meats, Scrambled Eggs, Coffee, and Bread with Strawberry Jam
  • Alex: Yogurt, Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Coffee
  • Inna: Deli Meats, Cheeses, Salad, Scrambled Eggs with Bacon, Latte
The strawberry jam was so delicious! We don't have anything like this in the U.S. I enjoyed looking at the snow-covered buildings outside and was a bit sad about leaving the area. We had such a wonderful time snowboarding, hiking, and dining here.



After breakfast, we checked out of our room (and reviewed the bill) and confirmed that our hotel shuttle would pick us up at 10:30 and take us to the nearby Train Terminal (a 5-minute ride). 

We were a bit sad leaving our excellent hotel and St. Anton. We really loved our time here. We double-checked our room and transferred all of our luggage downstairs, where the shuttle was already waiting. We boarded the hotel shuttle van and were quickly whisked away to the train station.

I had already pre-purchased train tickets in the OBB Mobile App (with assigned seats), so we were guaranteed seating on the 11:03 train to Innsbruck.



Since the luggage was large and heavy, we needed to use the elevators to get it to track #3, where the train would be arriving. We boarded the train (looking for car #306 and our seats #64, 65, and 66). The ride was easy and uneventful, passing small, beautiful Austrian villages covered in snow. We saw a few cross-country skiers nearby, too.

We arrived in Innsbruck right on time at 12:11.


St. Anton Trip Report

Highlights
  • Snowboarding in St. Anton am Arlberg
    • Epic Powder Day on Tuesday, December 24
    • Light powder day on Monday, December 23
  • Staying in the beautiful Hotel Zur Pfeffermühle
    • Enjoying the delicious breakfast (from 07:30 - 10:00)
    • Enjoying free snacks in the afternoon (12:00 - 17:00)
    • Enjoying the 3-course dinner in the evening (from 18:30 to 20:30)
    • Enjoying the 4 saunas and the quiet rest area
  • Hiking the Verwall Trail around Verwall Lake with a lunch stop at Wagner Hutte

Lowlights
  • Alber Sport did not have the correct size snowboard boot for me
    • Due to using an incorrectly sized boot, I developed numbness in my left foot
  • Waiting 10-30 minutes for the hotel shuttle to pick us up
    • The hotel shuttle starts pick-ups from Nasserein at 15:00
Links






Sunday, December 22, 2024

One Day in Zurich

For our winter vacation, we planned to visit Austria's Tyrol region (via Zürich, Switzerland), where we could ski at the famous St. Anton am Arlberg, Innsbruck, and the Solden Ski Resort (Längenfeld). 

Inna purchased tickets on the Swiss Air flight LX039 departing at 19:30 from San Francisco.

Our itinerary was as follows:

DateLocationHotelActivities
12/20/2024SFOFly Swiss Air LX039 07:25PM SFO -> Zurich
12/21/2024ZürichPark Hyatt ZürichSee the Iluminarium at the National Museum in Zürich



12/22/2024Zürich -> St AntonPfeffermühle Hotel

https://www.zurpfeffermuehle.com/en/hotel/

Timmlerweg 6 • 6580 St. Anton am Arlberg • Austria
Phone number: +43 5446 3740
Things to do in Zürich:

City Exploration
Old Town (Altstadt)
Wander through cobblestone streets, admire medieval buildings, and explore landmarks such as the Grossmünster and Fraumünster churches.
Bahnhofstrasse
Stroll along one of the world’s most famous shopping streets, beautifully lit with festive decorations in winter.
Lindenhof Hill
Enjoy panoramic views of the city while surrounded by a tranquil, snow-dusted park.
Kunsthaus Zürich
Explore a vast collection of modern and classical art.
Christmas Markets (if visiting late November to December)
Christkindlimarkt at Zürich Hauptbahnhof: A market under the giant Swarovski Christmas tree.
Sechseläutenplatz near the Opera House: A market with a view of Lake Zürich.
12/23/2024St AntonPfeffermühle Hotel
12/24/2024St AntonPfeffermühle Hotel
12/25/2024St AntonPfeffermühle Hotel
12/26/2024St Anton -> InnsbruckHotel Innsbruck

Innrain 3 | A-6020 Innsbruck
ATU53329107
+43 (0) 512 59868-0
reservations@hotelinnsbruck.com
www.hotelinnsbruck.com
12/27/2024InnsbruckHotel Innsbruck
12/28/2024InnsbruckHotel Innsbruck
12/29/2024InnsbruckHotel Innsbruck
12/30/2024Innsbruck - > LängenfeldAQUA DOME - TIROL THERME LÄNGENFELD
Oberlängenfeld 140 | A-6444 Längenfeld
T: +43 5253 6400
www.aqua-dome.at
office@aqua-dome.at
12/31/2024AQUA DOME
1/1/2025AQUA DOME
1/2/2025AQUA DOME
1/3/2025AQUA DOME
1/4/2025AQUA DOME
1/5/2024AQUA DOME
1/6/2024Längenfeld -> ZürichHyatt Regency Zürich Airport The CircleTrain from Otztal to Zürich
1/7/2024Zurich -> SFOFly Swiss Air LX038 01:30PM Zurich -> SFO

Friday, December 20, 2024

We packed our large suitcases on Friday, December 20 (I added Apple AirTags to each bag with a green strap). Unlike previous ski trips, we did not take our snowboards; we rented them in Europe. We packed all of our ski clothes in large suitcases.

At 15:45, we ordered an UberX (a Tesla Model S) and were taken to San Francisco International Airport for our departure. We had difficulty fitting all our large suitcases into the Tesla Model S (next time, we will order UberXL).

Inna was flying business class, so she boarded separately from Alex and me. Our economy-class seats (30A and 30B on a Boeing 777-300) were tolerable for the 11-hour flight to Zürich, but I had very little legroom. 

I chose the window seat, and Alex got stuck in the middle seat. Alex was also uncomfortable in the middle seat and was unable to sleep (or nap) throughout the flight.

My window seat was also quite uncomfortable because the person in front of me reclined her seat, leaving me with very little room (especially when eating). The main entree was beef (tolerable), and I skipped breakfast altogether as it looked unappetizing (some quiche with cold bread rolls).

I watched the new Shogun TV series on my iPad Pro (pre-downloaded on Plex). This was an exciting series that took my mind off the tedious flight.

The front pocket of my seat turned out to have a hole, and all of my electronic devices dropped through. I was able to easily get my iPhone, Kindle, and iPad, but my large wireless headphones were missing. Alex could not find them. Eventually, I asked everyone to empty the row, then looked for the headphones and found them hidden in a crevice near the window.




Saturday, December 21, 2024

We landed at Zürich airport on Saturday, December 21, at 15:00, about 30 minutes ahead of schedule. After quickly going through customs, we collected our luggage (it took 10-15 minutes for our bags to arrive, though Inna's suitcase arrived first) and strolled through the airport, trying to find where Uber pickups occur. Once found, I ordered an UberX, which took about 35 minutes to reach downtown (there was heavy traffic), where the Park Hyatt Zürich was located.



On arrival at Park Hyatt, we quickly checked in and went to room #631. Alex was extremely tired and passed out on the bed. He did not sleep on the 11-hour flight, as his middle seat was uncomfortable. I managed to nap for a few hours, but also had a splitting headache.




Since the weather forecast called for heavy rain the next day (Sunday), Inna and I decided that Saturday had to be the day to explore the Christmas Markets. As we were also hungry, Inna went downstairs to talk to the concierge. She made reservations for 18:00 at Ristorante Bianchi in downtown Zürich (about a 15-minute walk from the Park Hyatt Hotel).




On the way to Ristorante Bianchi, we were a bit cold (and needed time to adjust to the freezing temperatures), and we saw beautiful Christmas decorations along the way. Zürich looked like a spotless, well-run city with no homelessness. There were lots of people bicycling (despite the cold weather) and numerous electric trams running everywhere. The mood was quite festive, and the multiple Christmas Markets were usually crowded.




After reaching  Ristorante Bianchi, we sat down indoors (there were outdoor tables) and ordered the following items:
  • Drinks: San Pellegrino
  • Appetizer: Creme di Astice (Lobster Cream Soup)
  • Inna: Risotto Frutti di Mare (1/2 portion)
  • Boris: Trancio Di Salmone
Our waiter was fast and efficient, and our meal was prepared quickly. While the dinner was being prepared, we were offered freshly baked bread. I tried the Olive and Sundried Tomato breads, and they were delicious. The Salmon was delicious and expertly prepared. Inna's lobster soup and risotto were also excellent.  We decided to skip dessert and use our limited time to explore Zürich's Christmas Markets.



From the hotel concierge, Inna heard that the best Christmas Market was near the Zürich Opera House. This area is also called Sechseläutenplatz. We saw and stopped by numerous Christmas Markets, sampling a few Swiss and Austrian specialties, including:
  • Kaiserschmarrn (a fluffy, shredded Austrian pancake with apple sauce)
  • Opfelchuechli (sliced apple rings dipped in a doughnut-like batter and deep-fried)
  • Hot Chocolate with Baileys (with Baileys and Chocolate on a stick)
  • Glühwein (warm wine)
  • Quince Apple Walnut Sweet Strudel from Poushe
We enjoyed drinking the Glühwein and munching on Kaiserschmarrn and Apfelkuchen. The 
Quince-Apple-Walnut Sweet Strudel from Poushe was also rich and decadent.




The Sechseläutenplatz Christmas Market was exciting, with a lot of energy, loud music, large crowds, and many food and beverage vendors. We tried a few snacks and then boarded the train to Zürich HB. I couldn't get the SBB ticket app to work on my iPhone (it kept timing out). Being in a hurry to catch the 21:00 Illuminarium Light Show at the Landesmuseum, we rode the one-stop ticketless.


The Landesmuseum was quite crowded (there was a restaurant and nightclub inside), and we queued for the Illuminarium. 



It started to lightly rain, and we moved our seating out of the way. The show was quite dull, and we decided to leave early and use the time to explore the Zürich HB train station.



Inside the Zürich HB train station was a large, indoor Christmas Market with similar Christmas items for sale (socks, decorations, wine, strudel, etc.). Inna purchased some cute, fancy Swiss-made socks.



As it started to pour outside, we decided to catch an Uber (since we did not want to walk in the rain). However, the Uber app was showing me random ride prices (and wouldn't accept the initial fare of $11 Swiss francs), so we just got into a taxi and rode back to our hotel. It was more expensive - $29 - but faster. Using Uber is cheaper than using taxis in Switzerland.




Sunday, December 23, 2024

I did not sleep very well; I woke at 3:30 and then had difficulty falling back asleep. Eventually, I did fall asleep but woke to my blaring 07:00 alarm.



After showering and shaving, I packed my suitcase and waited for everyone to get ready for breakfast. Since it was pouring outside and there were strong winds, we decided to eat breakfast indoors at the Parkhuus restaurant at our Park Hyatt.


After sitting down, we ordered the following items for breakfast. Our waiter, Leon, was fast and efficient. We ordered à la carte, as the main "Farmer's Breakfast" was expensive - CHF 52 per person.
  • Boris: Egg Royale, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Inna: Egg Royale, Latte Macchiato
  • Alex: Egg Royale, Latte Macchiato, Yogurt
All of us selected the Egg Royale (Two Eggs Benedict with Salmon). My Egg Royale was small but delicious! The hot tea was nice, and my light headache went away after I took an Excedrin.

After breakfast, we quickly packed our bags and ordered a taxi for the Zürich HB Train Station. I purchased train tickets from Zürich HB to St. Anton am Arlberg on my iPhone (downloading the confirmation). However, the purchase did not include assigned seats (BIG MISTAKE).
 
Our train to St. Anton was 100% full, and only Inna managed to find a seat. Next time, we need to purchase seats in advance (on any full-capacity train).


Zürich Trip Report
Highlights
  • Visiting multiple Christmas Markets, including the largest one near the Zürich Opera House
  • Trying traditional Christmas treats, including:
    • Kaiserschmarrn (a fluffy, shredded Austrian pancake with apple sauce)
    • Opfelchuechli (sliced apple rings dipped in a doughnut-like batter and deep-fried)
    • Swiss Hot Chocolate with Baileys (and Chocolate on a stick)
  • Dining at the Ristorante Bianchi (in downtown Zürich)

Lowlights
  • Purchasing Rail tickets on the SBB App does not guarantee assigned seats (essential during peak travel times)
    • When I purchased train tickets for the ride to St. Anton, I did not purchase assigned seats. As a result,  I spent 2 hours standing on the ride there. Next time, purchase assigned seats (ahead of time)
  • Badly working SBB App on the iPhone (preventing me from buying tickets)
  • Switzerland uses a different A/C plug than the rest of Europe. My USA->Europe A/C adapters, which worked successfully in other European nations (Italy, Portugal, Austria, Spain, etc.), could not be used. (Thankfully, Park Hyatt Zürich had built-in USB ports, and we could use our cables)
  • The Illuminarium Light Show was unimpressive. Skip next time.
  • Rainy weather
  • The Swiss Air Flight LX39 (from SFO to ZHR) was very uncomfortable in Economy Class. Alex was exhausted, sitting in the middle seat.

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