Whale Watching in Akureyri, Iceland (July 31)

Thursday, July 31, 2025

Starting: Hótel Edda Akureyri, Iceland
Ending: Hótel Laugarbakki, Iceland

Highlights: Whale Watching (humpback whales) on Lilja, Fish Stew at Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra, Kolugljúfur Canyon

After waking up at 06:30, I showered, shaved, and dressed. We had to be ready by 08:20 to load the minibus, as we had an 08:30 Whale Watching tour scheduled.

At around 07:30, we walked to the dining room at Hótel Edda Akureyri, where the breakfast buffet was being served. The dining room was large and crowded. We managed to find a table and grabbed a variety of breakfast items, including Greek yogurt, boiled eggs, cheese, pastries, crackers, and drip coffee. It was not a bad breakfast buffet. I especially liked the drip coffee, which was especially delicious.

At 08:15, we returned to our room to retrieve our luggage, dropped off our room's key at the hotel reception, and loaded our luggage into the parked minibus. In about 5 minutes, we were brought to the nearby pier, where we waited to step aboard Lilja, the whale-watching boat we were assigned.

I put on waterproof pants and a rain jacket, which were unnecessary, as the day's weather remained excellent. Lilja also had foul-weather gear for stormy weather (which we did not need).

Once onboard, we initially sat in the rear of the boat (to minimize motion), then moved to the top deck. We had a very nice whale-spotting guide, Philippine, who helped identify the whales and take photos. She had an excellent Canon DSLR camera with a large zoom lens and captured fabulous photos of whales. I had my Nikon P900 ready to take photos, but Philippines' photos were much better.

We were fortunate with the weather, as the seas were calm and visibility was excellent. We managed to spot and get close to several humpback whales, which we photographed (and Inna managed to video too with her iPhone).) It was one of the most successful whale watching tours, and Philippine also remarked on how lucky we were.

Aboard Lilja, when we got cold, we stopped by a small cafe/bar on a lower deck, where we purchased some hot English breakfast tea.

After we returned to Akureyri, we boarded the minibus and began our drive to the Western part of Iceland. Our guide, Bjorn, talked about the famous Netflix series Trapped, which is set in Iceland. We should watch it when we return to the U.S.A.

Our first stop was Dalvik for lunch, where (according to Bjorn) the best fish stew in Iceland was served. We stopped into a small, unassuming restaurant, Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra.

We found a small table for two and ordered the famous fish stew, salad, and coffee. The stew was fantastic - the best I've ever tasted. We also tried a couple of the freshly baked cakes, including Happy Marriage Rhubarb Cake and Apple Cake, and they were scrumptious. 

After lunch, we had a quick rest stop at Siglufjordur, a small fishing village. The weather was quite drizzly, and there was not much to do there. 

We explored the small waterfront and stopped by Harbour House Cafe for cappuccinos. There are many colorful houses (red, yellow, etc.) here (probably to help lighten the mood from the drizzly weather).

We continued our drive further west and southwest, stopping briefly at an N1 service station in Hofsos for bathrooms and snacks.

As we continued our drive, Bjorn pointed out the oldest Church in Iceland - Grafarkirkja - but we did not stop to take photos.

The primary industry in this region was herring fishing, but it collapsed in the 1960s due to overfishing. Herring fishing is starting to recover now. There is a large company based here in Hofsós - The Skagafjörður Cooperative Society (Kaupfélag Skagfirðinga) in Sauðárkrókur - that does a lot of good for the community. In general, Western fjords are a great place to visit in Iceland.

We stopped by for a short hike in Hrutey to get some exercise after lunch. There were some small bridges to cross and some beautiful views all around. Inna and I also found many mushrooms growing throughout.

In this area of Iceland, fly fishing is very popular, and Bjorn mentioned that Eric Clapton fishes on the Asum River for salmon (occasionally).

This is also the place where the last execution (by beheading) had occurred in Iceland. 

On January 12, 1830, two farm workers—Agnes Magnúsdóttir (33) and Friðrik Sigurdsson (19)—were beheaded at Vatnsdalshólar (also referred to as Þrístapar), in Húnavatnssýsla, northern Iceland. They had been convicted of murdering two men—Natan Ketilsson and Pétur Jónsson—on March 14, 1828 at the Illugastaðir farm. After a lengthy trial that culminated in confirmation by the Supreme Court in Copenhagen, the sentence was carried out by beheading.

The execution was the final one carried out on Icelandic soil. The original execution axe is now housed in the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. 

At 18:26, we noticed the drizzle was clearing, and we were looking forward to hiking without rain gear.

As we kept driving, Bjorn pointed out a large circular structure (Sheep Sorting Coral) that had been used for generations to sort sheep between multiple farmers. It's no longer needed due to electronic tracking.

Bjorn received a call from our hotel about a power outage. The hotel did not know when it would be restored and asked to delay our group's arrival to allow more time for dinner preparations.

Our next major stop was the Kolugljúfur Canyon. It's an impressive canyon with waterfalls and beautiful overlooks at every turn. It's a dangerous place, and Bjorn warned us to be extra careful. We walked around taking hundreds of photos. We hoped for a bit more time, as it was truly spectacular.

We continued our drive to Hótel Laugarbakki, arriving at 19:44. Thankfully, power had been restored, and we checked in, dropped off our luggage, and returned to the main dining room for our group dinner. The chef prepared a special meal for our large group, and we enjoyed it.

After dinner, we strolled a bit around the area. There were mainly farms, not much else.

Inna checked out the hot tubs (that close at 23:00) but was not excited (so we decided to skip them).

Hotel Wi-Fi worked very well (pw=skeggiagata), and we were able to back up all our iPhone photos to the cloud.

Day Review (July 31)

Highlights

• Whale Watching (humpback whales) aboard Lilja in Akureyri
• Eating fish Stew at Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra
• Exploring spectacular Kolugljúfur Canyon

Lowlights

• Power Outage at Hótel Laugarbakki (but it was restored)

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Enjoying Mývatn Spa & Waterfalls, Iceland (July 30)

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Starting: Wilderness Center, Egilstaðir, Iceland
Ending: Hótel Edda Akureyri, Akureyri, Iceland
Highlights: Rjúkandi Waterfall, Stuðlagil Canyon, Mývatn Nature Baths, Godafoss Waterfall, Akureyri downtown, Akureyrarkirkja, Dinner at Rub23

Happy Birthday, Alex!

Our Wilderness Center accommodations, in Egilstaðir, were fairly Spartan but comfortable, not too hot or cold (we had the windows open at night). However, you could hear the sound of sheep (numerous and spread out throughout the area). There was a common room filled with ancient knick-knacks, such as an old, broken piano and faded posters (reminding us of the way things used to be).

After taking a shower and getting dressed, we swung by the nearby dining hall, where a breakfast buffet was prepared for us. The breakfast buffet offered a limited variety, so I chose boiled eggs, pancakes, and coffee. Usually, I prefer eating plain Skyr with granola or scrambled eggs, but neither was available.

At 08:00, we loaded the minibus with our luggage and started our long drive to Akureyri (with many planned stops along the way).

We drove by the Fljótsdalur Waterfall (I would have liked to have stopped to take a photo, but we were in a hurry). We continued the drive past the large Hydro Power station (where electricity is generated for heavy industry).

Our guide, Bjorn, also mentioned that Gunnar Gunnarsson was born in this area and pointed out his humble home.

Gunnar Gunnarsson (1889–1975) was one of Iceland’s most prominent authors in the early 20th century, known for his novels, short stories, and poetry that often explored themes of rural life, isolation, and human resilience in Iceland’s harsh landscapes.

Gunnarsson’s works blend Icelandic folklore, nature, and spirituality with modern narrative styles. Some of his most famous include:

• Guest the One-Eyed (1912) – His first major novel, about a lonely wanderer in rural Iceland.

• The Good Shepherd (Advent) (1936) – Perhaps his best-known work internationally. Follows Benedikt, a shepherd who endures a perilous winter journey in search of lost sheep; a meditation on endurance and faith.

• Ships in the Sky (1938) – A story exploring rural Icelandic life confronting modernization.

• The Black Cliffs (1923) – A murder mystery set against Iceland’s rugged coasts.

• Seven Days’ Darkness (1927) – A dystopian novel involving a volcanic eruption plunging Iceland into chaos.

We drove past a stunning Hengifoss waterfall, but better views would have required hiking (which we did not have time for). Next time, we need to hike to Hengifoss for a close-up view.

Bjorn told us about the legend of Lagarfljótsormurinn, also known as the Lagarfljót Worm. It's a cryptid said to inhabit Lagarfljót, a lake near Egilsstaðir in East Iceland, and is often compared to Scotland's Loch Ness Monster.

The Folktale

A well-known story explains the creature’s origins:

• A girl placed a golden ring on a small slug or worm and set it in a chest, believing it would make the gold grow.

• When she returned later, the worm had grown huge, filling the chest. Frightened, she threw it into the lake, where it continued to live and grow—becoming Lagarfljótsormurinn.

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Sightings

• Sightings have been reported over the centuries, especially in the 18th and 19th centuries, often associated with impending disasters such as floods or earthquakes.

• In 2012, a video surfaced showing what appeared to be a serpent-like creature swimming in Lagarfljót. It went viral, but skeptics argued it was likely a floating net or ice.

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Cultural Significance

• The monster is deeply tied to local identity and folklore in East Iceland.

• It has been featured in Icelandic literature, tales, and even modern tourism campaigns.

• In 2012, the Egilsstaðir council jokingly declared the video “authentic,” awarding a bounty to the filmer.

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Skepticism

• Scientists attribute sightings to floating ice, plant debris, or optical illusions caused by currents in the glacial lake, whose murky waters make it impossible to see beneath the surface.

• Still, locals and tourists enjoy the mystery, keeping the legend alive.

The government attempted to develop forestry in eastern Iceland, and various tree species were planted to determine which would grow best in the harsh Icelandic climate. It turned out that Siberian larch grows best, so many were planted to support reforestation. They are now being farmed, but they are still not as numerous as desired. Most of Iceland is quite barren, and only parts of it can support trees (during the short summer growing season).

We drove by the Golfklúbbur Fljótsdalshéraðs golf course, which is popular in this area. 

According to Bjorn, the best weather is in East Iceland, and we were definitely experiencing less drizzle and fog (compared to other parts of Iceland).

Best Trees for Growing in Iceland

✅ Native and Naturalized Trees

1. Downy Birch (Betula pubescens)

   • The only native forest tree in Iceland.

   • Hardy, small to medium-sized.

   • Tolerates wind and poor soils well.

2. Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia)

   • Also called mountain ash.

   • Naturally found in some parts of Iceland.

   • Attractive red berries and good cold tolerance.

✅ Introduced Species That Thrive

1. Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis)

   • Fast-growing conifer from North America.

   • Excellent for timber and shelterbelts.

   • Grows well in coastal areas, but can be invasive.

2. Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta)

   • Very wind-resistant.

   • Common in afforestation projects.

   • Grows well in acidic and volcanic soils.

3. Norway Spruce (Picea abies)

   • Used for windbreaks and Christmas trees.

   • Does well in milder Icelandic regions.

4. Siberian Larch (Larix sibirica)

   • Deciduous conifer that withstands extreme cold.

   • Fast-growing and used in reforestation.

5. Black Cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa)

   • One of the fastest-growing species in Iceland.

   • Popular in urban areas and for erosion control.

6. Russian Bird Cherry (Prunus padus)

   • Hardy ornamental tree.

   • Small, with white flowers in spring.

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🌱 Growing Conditions in Iceland

• Soil: Volcanic, often poor in nutrients but well-drained.

• Wind: Shelter from wind is essential for young trees.

• Climate: Cool summers, cold winters, and short growing seasons.

• Light: Long summer days help boost growth.

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🌳 Forest Development in Iceland

• Forest cover was <1% in early 20th century.

• Now expanding through national planting programs like Skógræktin (The Icelandic Forest Service).

• Popular planting areas include Egilsstaðir (East Iceland) and regions around Akureyri and Reykjavík.

We continued our drive past Glacial Valley, passing numerous waterfalls. It would have been impossible to stop at each one to take a photo. It's truly a fantastic site. We did stop by Rjúkandi Waterfall and managed to take a few pictures.

The weather in Iceland is ever-changing, from sunshine to rain and back again within minutes. One has to dress in layers and be ready to put on or take off clothes to stay dry and comfortable.

Our next major stop was at the Stuðlagil Canyon Viewpoint. It's a truly stunning canyon, which Inna and I tried to photograph during our limited time (30 minutes). We could have easily spent a few hours here, as the views were magnificent. One person was launching a drone (probably to show a different perspective).

From here, we drove to Möðrudalur/Fjalladýrð (a small local farm) for a short rest and to see the farm's animals. This particular farm had a domesticated, friendly Reindeer, which both Inna and I petted. His skin was so soft, and he behaved like a well-trained puppy. I was also hoping to see an Arctic fox, but she was not there. Outside the farm, there was a very old, tiny Church that was also quite photogenic, and we took multiple photos. 

For a quick snack, Inna and I ordered the following items from the farm's cafe:

• Coffee x 2
• Happy Marriage Cake (kaka)

Our next destination was the Mývatn Nature Baths, where we would spend 90 minutes relaxing (and eating lunch). 

Unlike the Sky Lagoon Hot Spring Spa near Reykjavik, Mývatn Nature Baths had a strong sulphuric odor (rotten-egg smell), which didn't appeal to me. Depending on which way the wind blew, the rotten egg smell could alternate from being hardly noticeable to unbearable.

Floating in the heated pools was still very enjoyable, and Myvatn had both cooler and warmer pools connected, so one could swim to different parts of the pool to warm up or cool off. Both Inna and I enjoyed relaxing in the thermal pools, especially after so many hours of driving in a cramped minibus.

Here is a short video clip of bathing in Myvatn Spa: 

After relaxing for an hour, we rushed to change back into our dry clothes and eat lunch. There was a long line for lunch (and most food was pre-packaged; there was little prepared fresh). We selected the following items:

• Boris: Roast Beef Sandwich (on a bagel), mocha
• Inna: Salad, berry pie, cappuccino

The roast beef sandwich was ok, but the freshly baked berry pie was better than expected.

After everyone returned to the minibus, we continued our drive to Lava Field Dimmuborgir.
We had a short, 30-minute walk along a path lined with lava formations, and some were very photogenic. 

We took lots of photos and marvelled at the complex structures. Thirty minutes here was barely enough to cover all of the fascinating formations.

Our drive continued past Myvatn Craters, stopping briefly at Lake Myvatn. Our guide warned us about the extremely aggressive "my" flies, but we didn't believe him until we got off the bus to take photos of fishermen fly-fishing for trout in Lake Myvatn.

In Iceland, when people talk about “my flies” or “mýflugur” (Icelandic: mý), they’re usually referring to biting midges or non-biting midges—tiny flying insects that can be a nuisance, especially in summer near lakes and wetlands.

The flies were a real menace, biting and buzzing around incessantly, and I now understood why so many anti-insect repellents were sold at various Icelandic mini-markets. I couldn't understand how fishermen could fish with these pesky insects around (or how campers could avoid them).

Our next major stop was the incredibly impressive Godafoss Waterfall (meaning: Waterfall of the Gods). It's a smaller version of Niagara Falls and just as impressive.

Godafoss Facts

• Height: ~12 meters (39 feet)

• Width: ~30 meters (98 feet)

• Shape: Horseshoe-shaped, similar to a smaller version of Niagara Falls.

• Surrounded by dramatic lava fields and turquoise waters from the Skjálfandafljót River, which originates from the Icelandic Highlands.

We continued the final leg of our drive with an early arrival in Akureyri. Bjorn had planned our arrival for 18:30, but we disembarked almost an hour earlier at 17:30. 

We checked into Hótel Edda Akureyri (which also serves as a dorm for Akureyri Junior College) during the academic season and dropped off our luggage in the room. The room was quite spacious, with large windows and a nice view of the lawn. It would have been a very nice dorm room!

Initially, we wanted to eat an early dinner and decided to stop by Aurora Restaurant. Even though we were there quite early, all the tables were booked (the restaurant looked empty). We were surprised that the staff could not find us a table. As a precaution, we made a reservation for 20:30 (but ended up not needing it), and decided to explore the nearby Akureyri Botanical Gardens.

The Botanical Gardens were very friendly and not overly large, and we strolled around, taking lots of photos. We noticed one of the cruise ships departing and took lots of photos. Akureyri is a very popular cruise port (as we saw cruise ships docked each day we were there).

From the Akureyri Botanical Gardens, we walked to Akureyri downtown, following freshly painted houses. Akureyri looks very well-maintained and well-run. We enjoyed strolling by the bookstores and restaurants.

We heard from our guide (and ChatGPT) that the Rub23 restaurant was one of the very best in town, and I figured that there would be no chance of getting a table there (without booking ahead of time). Inna and I walked in at around 18:30 to try to get a table, anyway.

Shockingly, we were asked to wait, and were eventually seated! It was a wonderful, pleasant surprise (especially after being turned down by Aurora earlier). After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items (basically, the chef's summer menu):

• Boris: Summer Menu (Hamachi, Salmon)
• Inna: Summer Menu (Hamachi, Lamb)

The sushi, lamb, and salmon were all exceptional, and we really enjoyed our delicious dinner. It was expensive (just over $200 for two people) but extraordinary.

After dinner, we walked to the shore and discovered a classic European car show/meetup. We took photos of a few classic European cars. I recognized the VW Beetle and a few other makes, but others were completely unknown to me.

We walked back to our hotel to rest and relax, briefly stopping at the beautiful Akureyrarkirkja (the main church), to take photos.

My wife wrote the following about the day-to-day counter:

Вчера мы гуляли в очень красивом базальтовом каньоне, потом заехали на симпатичную ферму где вкусно попили кофейку, познакомились с практически ручным оленем, потом купались в натуральных геотермальных источниках, после этого небольшой хайк в полях лавы с причудливыми каменными структурами и пещерами, потом еще один потрясающий водопад. Вечером приехали в очень симпатичный городок Акьюрери, который находится на берегу самого длинного фьорда в Исландии (около 60 километров). Там сходили в небольшой, но очень милый ботанический сад, очень вкусно поужинали и погуляли по городу, там набрели на тусовку автолюбителей antique cars, в общем день удался! 

Day Review (July 30)

Highlights

• Seeing multiple waterfalls, including the following:
• Rjúkandi Waterfall
• Godafoss Waterfall
• Hengifoss Waterfall
• Exploring the stunning Stuðlagil Canyon
• Floating and relaxing in Mývatn Nature Baths
• Exploring unique lava formations in Lava Field Dimmuborgir
• Exploring Akureyri
• Dining at Rub23 in Akureyri
• Visiting the Akureyri Botanical Gardens.
• Strolling through Akureyri downtown
• Seeing the classic European cars show 
• Photographing the beautiful Akureyrarkirkja Church
• Petting the friendly, domesticated reindeer on the Möðrudalur/Fjalladýrð  farm

Lowlights

• Swatting away pesky "my" f"ies on Lake Myvatn
• Missing out on photos and hiking opportunities to Hengifoss waterfall
• Spending too much time at rest stops

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Puffin Encounter, Iceland (July 29)

Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Starting: Adventure Hotel Hof, Fagurhólsmýri, Iceland

Ending: Wilderness Center, Egilstaðir, Iceland

Highlights: Eastfjords, Djúpivogur, Borgarfjarðarhöfn, Puffins, Wilderness Center

In the morning, we woke at 06:30 to get ready for another busy day. Our guide had planned to show us Puffins (which required extra driving time). 

It was slightly drizzly outside, with poor visibility, exactly the weather I had been worried about encountering. Our drive to the eastern side of Iceland will let us escape to the sunnier side of the island.

As we began our drive east, our guide pointed out the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon Hotel, the most expensive hotel in this part of Iceland, which is always sold out. When it was being built, the locals thought that this hotel would go bankrupt, but it turned out to be highly successful.

In 1771, Norwegian traders introduced reindeer, and a small population learned to adapt and survive in East Iceland. Currently, the reindeer population is estimated at 4,000 to 5,000 animals. Iceland offers a short reindeer hunting season between July 15 and September 15, covering most hunting areas in East Iceland. Permits to hunt up to 1,200 reindeer are purchased by prospective hunters.

Nearby, in Hali, an extremely famous Icelandic author - Þórbergur Þórðarson (often anglicized as Thorbergur Thordarson, pronounced roughly THOR-ber-gur THOR-thar-son) was born, and we drove by his birthplace home.

Þórbergur was a pioneering figure in Icelandic literature, known for his brilliance in language, irony, satire, and bold experimental style—especially in auto-fiction. He was nicknamed “Maestro Þórbergur” for his unmatched vocabulary and expressive fluency.

Signature Works:

• Bréf til Láru (Letters to Lára, 1924): A sharply satirical critique of capitalism, organized religion, and societal hypocrisy, which led to the loss of his teaching post but firmly established his literary voice.

• Íslenzkur aðall (Icelandic Nobility, 1938) and Ofvitinn (The Eccentric, 1940–41): Largely autobiographical, blending personal narrative with broader social commentary 

• Steinarnir tala (The Stones Speak, 1956): A childhood memoir rooted in his rural upbringing—translated into English and widely praised for its vivid storytelling and strong sense of place. 

In Iceland, Arctic Char and Salmon are usually farmed, while Cod, Haddock, and Pollack are fished in the North Atlantic. We found Arctic Char available throughout Iceland.

Höfn (pronounced "Hub") is the Lobster fishing Capital of Iceland. We stopped by Höfn for coffee and to use the restrooms.

Our next stop was the Hvalnes Lighthouse. The weather was still drizzly, with poor visibility and fog everywhere. We walked around for some exercise, but all the surrounding beauty was hidden by the fog and mist.

We continued our drive to Djupivogur, where we walked around the small town and stopped for lunch at Langabúð - Café. 

There were limited selections on the menu, and we chose the following:

• Boris: Goulash soup, bread, coffee
• Inna: Salmon "open-faced" sandwich, Goulash soup, bread, coffee

For dessert, we decided to stop by the Hafið bistro, where we selected the following:

• Dessert: Raspberry Jelly Cake (Kaka)
• Drinks: hot black tea

The Raspberry Jelly Cake was excellent. Note, cakes in Iceland are called "kaka" in Icelandic, which translates as "poop" to Russian speakers.

There was a fascinating artistic exhibit of egg statues (Eggin i Gleõivik) of Icelandic birds in Djupivogur, and we stopped by for a look. The large, oversized, oval eggs were impressive. However, we couldn't tell their English name (or how oversized they were).

Our next stop was at Nykurhylsfoss (Sveinsstekksfoss). We hiked for a short time to a bridge that overlooked a beautiful gorge, with views of the ocean. We took lots of photos, but could not cross the bridge to the other side (as the gate was locked by the farmer who owned the property). 

The weather was starting to clear, and we were hopeful we could finally see all the beautiful cliffs and waterfalls around us.

We continued our drive to Borgarfjarðarhöfn (to see and photograph Puffins) with a couple more stops on the way. We drove by Hænubrekkufoss waterfall without stopping. Hopefully, next time, we will have time to stop for photos.

As we continued our drive, we stopped in Egilsstaðir for snacks, bathrooms (WC), and fuel. Note that the Iceland fueling stations (N1) have extensive attached mini-marts that sell a diverse set of items, though snacks and junk food predominate. We were shocked to see how much junk food (chips, chocolate, soda, etc.) our travel group consumed. I have purchased a chocolate bar once (and a smoothie on another occasion), but I usually refrain from buying junk food.

Bjorn told us a bit about Dyrfjöll, the "Door" Mountains, and the excellent hiking there. Here are more details from ChatGPT and Bjorn:

About Dyrfjöll & Stórurð
Dyrfjöll, meaning “Door Mountains,” is a jagged volcanic ridge rising to 1,136 m. Its most striking feature is a massive arch-like gap—roughly 856 m high—carved by glacial erosion.

Located by the remote Borgarfjörður Eystri in East Iceland, Dyrfjöll is geologically ancient and formed between 12 and 3 million years ago.

Trail Overview & Route
Most hikes begin at Vatnskarð pass (road 94), about a 50-minute drive from Egilsstaðir, where there’s a parking area, visitor hut, and toilet facilities.

From the pass, the trail ascends gently at first, offering views over Héraðsflói bay (north) and Dyrfjalladalur valley (south).

You’ll then descend into Urðardalur (Stórurð) valley—home to hundreds of giant rocks and turquoise streams, and ponds.

Distance: ~7.5 km one way (~15 km round-trip). Estimated time: 2.5–3 hours one way, or about 7 hours total, including exploring time. 

For those who want to minimize carryng heavy backpacking gear, hut-to-hut hiking is available. (Small huts are strategically located to allow hiking with daypacks only). 

Stórurð (“Giant Boulder Valley”) lies at the base of Dyrfjöll and features massive tuff blocks, glacial ponds, and mossy meadows—often compared to troll landscapes from Norse mythology. 

After many hours of driving, we finally arrived at Borgarfjarðarhöfn, the best location to view and photograph Puffins in Iceland. After being dropped off, we climbed a small structure to see puffins in action. 

Puffins live in their self-designated, burrowed holes, where they raise and feed their young chicks. We could see puffins fly in and out, but had difficulty seeing them inside their burrows. On several occasions, I spotted puffins walking and was able to take photographs.

The Nikon P900 superzoom camera (brought specifically for birding and whale watching) was acting up. My Nikon P900 complained that the batteries were going low, even though I had charged them recently. Perhaps the Nikon batteries were going bad? I managed to take a few photos before the battery died completely.

In Borgarfjarðarhöfn, there is a KHB Brugghús Brewery and a building that used to be a giant freezer, now a hotel.

On the way to the Wilderness Center hotel, we stopped at the Strorud Visitor overlook on a wonderful, clear day. The weather had cleared, and we enjoyed staring at the beautiful Icelandic coastline.

Arriving at Wilderness Center, we picked up our keys (from the note left by the staff), dropped off our luggage in our room, and hurried to dinner. Since Inna and I selected lamb, we sat together along with all other guests who had also chosen lamb.

Our dinner consisted of the following:

• Drinks: Bjor beer, sparkling water
• Main: lamb
• Dessert: rhubarb

After dinner, we stopped by the Museum of Icelandic Life. It had multiple exhibits on the hardships of surviving in Iceland.

Day Review(July 29)

Highlights

• Observing Puffins in their natural habitat in Borgarfjarðarhöfn
• Walking along the gorge in Nykurhylsfoss
• Waterfalls:
• Hænubrekkufoss waterfall 

Lowlights

• Drizzly weather
• Poor visibility in the morning (especially on the way to Hvalnes Lighthouse)
• The food at Langabúð - Café was fairly bland.

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