Whale Watching in Akureyri, Iceland (July 31)

Thursday, July 31, 2025

Starting: Hótel Edda Akureyri, Iceland
Ending: Hótel Laugarbakki, Iceland

Highlights: Whale Watching (humpback whales) on Lilja, Fish Stew at Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra, Kolugljúfur Canyon

After waking up at 06:30, I took a shower, shaved, and dressed. We had to be ready by 08:20 to load the mini-bus, as we had an 08:30 Whale Watching tour scheduled.

At around 07:30, we walked to the Hótel Edda Akureyri's dining room, where the breakfast buffet was being served. The dining room was large and packed with people. We managed to find a table and grabbed a variety of breakfast items, including Greek yogurt, boiled eggs, cheese, pastries, crackers, and drip coffee. It was not a bad breakfast buffet. I especially liked the drip coffee, which was especially delicious.

At 08:15, we returned to our room to retrieve our luggage, dropped off our room's key at the hotel reception, and loaded our luggage into the parked mini-bus. In about 5 minutes, we were brought to the nearby pier, where we waited to step aboard Lilja, the whale-watching boat we were assigned.

I had put on waterproof pants and a rain jacket, which were not really needed, as the day's weather stayed excellent. Lilja also had foul-weather gear in cases of stormy weather (which we did not need to use).

Once onboard, we initially sat in the rear of the boat (to minimize the boat's motion), but then came out on the top deck. We had a very nice whale spotting guide, Philippine, who helped to identify the whales and to take photos. She had an excellent Canon DSLR camera with a large zoom lens and managed to capture excellent photos of whales. I had my Nikon P900 ready to take photos, but Philippine's photos were much better.

We were extremely lucky with the weather, as the seas were calm and visibility was excellent. We managed to spot and get close to several humpback whales, which we photographed (and Inna managed to video too with her iPhone).) It was one of the most successful whale watching tours, and Philippine also remarked on how lucky we were.

Aboard Lilja, when we got cold, we stopped by a small cafe/bar on a lower deck, where we purchased some hot English breakfast tea.

After we returned to Akureyri, we loaded on the mini-bus and started our drive to the Western part of Iceland. Our guide, Bjorn, talked about the famous Netflix Trapped series, which takes place in Iceland. We need to try watching it when we return to the U.S.A.

Our first stop was Dalvik for lunch, where (according to Bjorn) the best fish stew in Iceland was served. We stopped into a small, unassuming restaurant, Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra.

We found a small table for two and ordered the famous fish stew, salad, and coffee. The stew was fantastic - the best I've ever tasted. We also tried a couple of the freshly baked cakes, including Happy Marriage Rhubarb Cake and Apple Cake, and they were scrumptious. 

After lunch, we had a quick rest stop at Siglufjordur, a small fishing village. The weather was quite drizzly, and there was not much to do there. We explored the small waterfront and stopped by Harbour House Cafe for cappuccinos. There are many colorful houses (red, yellow, etc.) here (probably to help lighten the mood from the drizzly weather).

We continued our drive further west and southwest, stopping briefly at an N1 service station in Hofsos for bathrooms and snacks.

As we continued our drive, Bjorn pointed out the oldest Church in Iceland - Grafarkirkja - but we did not stop to take photos.

The main industry in this region used to be herring fishing, but it collapsed in the 1960s when herring were overfished. Herring fishing is starting to recover now.  There is a large company based here in Hofsós - The Skagafjörður Cooperative Society (Kaupfélag Skagfirðinga) in Sauðárkrókur - that does a lot of good for the community. In general, Western fjords are a great place to visit in Iceland.

We stopped by for a short hike in Hrutey to get some exercise after lunch. There were some small bridges to cross and some beautiful views all around. Inna and I also found many mushrooms growing throughout.

Around this area of Iceland, fly fishing is very popular, and Bjorn mentioned that Eric Clapton fishes on the Asum River for salmon (on occasion).

This is also the place where the last execution (by beheading) had occurred in Iceland. 

On January 12, 1830, two farm workers—Agnes Magnúsdóttir (33) and Friðrik Sigurdsson (19)—were beheaded at Vatnsdalshólar (also referred to as Þrístapar), in Húnavatnssýsla, northern Iceland. They had been convicted of murdering two men—Natan Ketilsson and Pétur Jónsson—on March 14, 1828 at the Illugastaðir farm. After a lengthy trial that culminated in confirmation by the Supreme Court in Copenhagen, the sentence was carried out by beheading.

The execution was the final one carried out on Icelandic soil. The original execution axe is now housed in the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. 

At 18:26, we noticed that the drizzly weather started to clear u, and we were looking forward to hiking without rain gear.

As we kept driving, Bjorn pointed out a large circular structure (Sheep Sorting Coral) that had been used for generations to sort sheep between multiple farmers. It's not needed anymore due to electronic tracking.

Bjorn got a call from our hotel, informing him of a power outage. The hotel did not know when it would be restored and asked to delay our group's arrival to allow more time for dinner preparations.

Our next major stop was the Kolugljúfur Canyon. It's an amazing canyon with waterfalls and beautiful overlooks everywhere. It's a dangerous place, and Bjorn warned us to be extra careful. We walked around taking hundreds of photos. We hoped for a bit more time, as it was truly spectacular.

We continued our drive to Hótel Laugarbakki, arriving at 19:44. Thankfully, power had been restored, and we checked in, dropped off our luggage, and returned to the main dining room for our group dinner. The chef prepared a special meal for our large group, and we enjoyed it a lot.

After dinner, we strolled a bit around the area (there were mostly farms around and not much else).

Inna checked out the hot tubs (that close at 23:00) but was not excited (so we decided to skip them).

Wifi worked very well (pw=skeggiagata), and I was able to back up all my iPhone photos in the cloud.

Day Review (July 31)

Highlights

• Whale Watching (humpback whales) aboard Lilja in Akureyri
• Eating fish Stew at Gisli Eirikur Helgi Kaffihûs Bakkabrædra
• Exploring spectacular Kolugljúfur Canyon

Lowlights

• Power Outage at Hótel Laugarbakki (but it was restored)

Read More

Enjoying Mývatn Spa & Waterfalls, Iceland (July 30)

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Starting: Wilderness Center, Egilstaðir, Iceland
Ending: Hótel Edda Akureyri, Akureyri, Iceland
Highlights: Rjúkandi Waterfall, Stuðlagil Canyon, Mývatn Nature Baths, Godafoss Waterfall, Akureyri downtown, Akureyrarkirkja, Dinner at Rub23

Happy Birthday, Alex!

Our Wilderness Center accommodations were fairly spartan, but they were comfortable and not too hot or cold (we had the windows open at night), though you could hear the sound of sheep (which were numerous and spread out throughout the area). There was a common room filled with ancient knick-knacks, like an old broken piano and old posters (reminding us of the way things were).

After taking a shower and getting dressed, we swung by the nearby dining hall, where a breakfast buffet was prepared for us. The breakfast buffet offered a limited variety, so I chose boiled eggs, pancakes, and coffee. Usually, I prefer eating plain Skyr with granola or scrambled eggs, but these were not available.

At 08:00, we loaded the mini-bus with our luggage and started our long drive to Akureyri (with many stops planned in between).

We drove by the Fljótsdalur Waterfall (I would have liked to have stopped to take a photo, but we were in a hurry). We continued the drive past the large Hydro Power station (where electricity is generated for heavy industry).

Our guide, Bjorn, also mentioned that Gunnar Gunnarsson was born in this area and pointed out his humble home.

Gunnar Gunnarsson (1889–1975) was one of Iceland’s most prominent authors in the early 20th century, known for his novels, short stories, and poetry that often explored themes of rural life, isolation, and human resilience in Iceland’s harsh landscapes.

Gunnarsson’s works blend Icelandic folklore, nature, and spirituality with modern narrative styles. Some of his most famous include:

• Guest the One-Eyed (1912) – His first major novel, about a lonely wanderer in rural Iceland.

• The Good Shepherd (Advent) (1936) – Perhaps his best-known work internationally. Follows Benedikt, a shepherd who endures a perilous winter journey in search of lost sheep; a meditation on endurance and faith.

• Ships in the Sky (1938) – A story exploring rural Icelandic life confronting modernization.

• The Black Cliffs (1923) – A murder mystery set against Iceland’s rugged coasts.

• Seven Days’ Darkness (1927) – A dystopian novel involving a volcanic eruption plunging Iceland into chaos.

We drove by a stunning Hengifoss waterfall, but better viewing would have required hiking (for which we did not have time). Next time, we need to hike to Hengifoss for a close-up view.

Bjorn told us about the legend of Lagarfljótsormurinn, also known as the Lagarfljót Worm. It’s a cryptid said to inhabit Lagarfljót, a lake near Egilsstaðir in East Iceland, and is often compared to Scotland’s Loch Ness Monster.

The Folktale

A well-known story explains the creature’s origins:

• A girl placed a golden ring on a small slug or worm and set it in a chest, believing it would make the gold grow.

• When she returned later, the worm had grown huge, filling the chest. Frightened, she threw it into the lake, where it continued to live and grow—becoming Lagarfljótsormurinn.

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Sightings

• Sightings have been reported over the centuries, especially in the 18th and 19th centuries, often associated with impending disasters such as floods or earthquakes.

• In 2012, a video surfaced showing what appeared to be a serpent-like creature swimming in Lagarfljót. It went viral, but skeptics argued it was likely a floating net or ice.

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Cultural Significance

• The monster is deeply tied to local identity and folklore in East Iceland.

• It has been featured in Icelandic literature, tales, and even modern tourism campaigns.

• In 2012, the Egilsstaðir council jokingly declared the video “authentic,” awarding a bounty to the filmer.

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Skepticism

• Scientists attribute sightings to floating ice, plant debris, or optical illusions caused by currents in the glacial lake, whose murky waters make it impossible to see beneath the surface.

• Still, locals and tourists enjoy the mystery, keeping the legend alive.

There was an attempt by the government to develop forestry in eastern Iceland, and various tree types were planted to determine which grows best in the harsh Icelandic climate. It turned out that Siberian larch grows best, and many were planted to help with reforestation. They are now being farmed, but they are still not as numerous as desired. Most of Iceland is quite barren, and only parts of Iceland can grow trees (during the short growing season in the summer).

We drove by the Golfklúbbur Fljótsdalshéraðs golf course, which is popular in this area. 

According to Bjorn, the best weather is in East Iceland, and we were definitely experiencing less drizzle and fog (compared to other parts of Iceland).

Best Trees for Growing in Iceland

✅ Native and Naturalized Trees

1. Downy Birch (Betula pubescens)

   • The only native forest tree in Iceland.

   • Hardy, small to medium-sized.

   • Tolerates wind and poor soils well.

2. Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia)

   • Also called mountain ash.

   • Naturally found in some parts of Iceland.

   • Attractive red berries and good cold tolerance.

✅ Introduced Species That Thrive

1. Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis)

   • Fast-growing conifer from North America.

   • Excellent for timber and shelterbelts.

   • Grows well in coastal areas, but can be invasive.

2. Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta)

   • Very wind-resistant.

   • Common in afforestation projects.

   • Grows well in acidic and volcanic soils.

3. Norway Spruce (Picea abies)

   • Used for windbreaks and Christmas trees.

   • Does well in milder Icelandic regions.

4. Siberian Larch (Larix sibirica)

   • Deciduous conifer that withstands extreme cold.

   • Fast-growing and used in reforestation.

5. Black Cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa)

   • One of the fastest-growing species in Iceland.

   • Popular in urban areas and for erosion control.

6. Russian Bird Cherry (Prunus padus)

   • Hardy ornamental tree.

   • Small, with white flowers in spring.

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🌱 Growing Conditions in Iceland

• Soil: Volcanic, often poor in nutrients but well-drained.

• Wind: Shelter from wind is essential for young trees.

• Climate: Cool summers, cold winters, and short growing seasons.

• Light: Long summer days help boost growth.

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🌳 Forest Development in Iceland

• Forest cover was <1% in early 20th century.

• Now expanding through national planting programs like Skógræktin (The Icelandic Forest Service).

• Popular planting areas include Egilsstaðir (East Iceland) and regions around Akureyri and Reykjavík.

We continued our drive past Glacial Valley, passing numerous waterfalls. It would have been impossible to stop at each one to take a photo. It's truly an amazing site. We did stop by Rjúkandi Waterfall and managed to take a few photos.

The weather in Iceland is ever-changing, from sunshine to rain and back again within minutes. One has to be dressed in layers and be ready to put on or take off layers of clothes to stay dry and comfortable.

Our next major stop was at the Stuðlagil Canyon Viewpoint. It's a truly stunning canyon, which Inna and I tried to photograph during our limited time (30 minutes). We could have easily spent a few hours here, as the views were magnificent. One person was launching a drone (probably to show a different perspective).

From here, we drove to Möðrudalur/Fjalladýrð (a small local farm) for a short rest and to see the farm's animals. This particular farm had a domesticated, friendly Reindeer, which both Inna and I petted. His skin was so soft, and he behaved like a well-trained puppy. I was also hoping to see an Arctic fox, but she was not there. Outside the farm, there was a very old, tiny Church that was also quite photogenic, and we took multiple photos. 

For a quick snack, Inna and I ordered the following items from the farm's cafe:

• Coffee x 2
• Happy Marriage Cake (kaka)

Our next destination was the Mývatn Nature Baths, where we would spend 90 minutes relaxing (and eating lunch). 

Unlike the Sky Lagoon Hot Spring Spa near Reykjavik, Mývatn Nature Baths had a very strong sulphuric odor (rotten egg smell), which didn't appeal to me. Depending on which way the wind blew, the rotten egg smell could alternate from being hardly noticeable to unbearable.

Floating in the thermally heated pools was still very enjoyable, and Myvatn had both cooler and warmer pools connected together, so one could swim to different parts of the pool to warm up or cool off. Both Inna and I enjoyed relaxing in the thermal pools, especially after so many hours of driving in a cramped mini-bus.

After relaxing for an hour, we rushed to change back into our dry clothes and eat lunch. There was a long line for lunch (and most food was pre-packaged; there was little prepared fresh).  We selected the following items:

• Boris: Roast Beef Sandwich (on a bagel), mocha
• Inna: Salad, berry pie, cappuccino

The roast beef sandwich was ok, but the freshly baked berry pie was better than expected.

After everyone returned to the mini-bus, we continued our drive to Lava Field Dimmuborgir.
We had a short, 30-minute walk along a path lined with lava formations, and some were very photogenic. We took lots of photos and marvelled at the complex structures. Thirty minutes here was barely enough to cover all of the interesting formations.

Our drive continued past Myvatn Craters, stopping briefly at Lake Myvatn. Our guide warned us about the extremely aggressive "my" flies, but we didn't believe him until we exited the bus to take photos of fishermen, fly-fishing for trout in Lake Myvatn.

In Iceland, when people talk about “my flies” or “mýflugur” (Icelandic: mý), they’re usually referring to biting midges or non-biting midges—tiny flying insects that can be a nuisance, especially in summer near lakes and wetlands.

The flies were a real menace, biting and buzzing around incessantly, and I now understood why so many anti-insect repellents were sold at various Icelandic mini-markets. I couldn't understand how fishermen fished with these pesky insects around (or how campers avoid them).

Our next major stop was the incredibly impressive Godafoss Waterfall (meaning: Waterfall of the Gods). It's a smaller version of Niagara Falls and just as impressive.

Godafoss Facts

• Height: ~12 meters (39 feet)

• Width: ~30 meters (98 feet)

• Shape: Horseshoe-shaped, similar to a smaller version of Niagara Falls.

• Surrounded by dramatic lava fields and turquoise waters from the Skjálfandafljót River, which originates from the Icelandic Highlands.

We continued the final leg of our drive with an early arrival in Akureyri. Bjorn was planning our arrival at 18:30, but we disembarked almost an hour earlier at 17:30. 

We checked into Hótel Edda Akureyri (which also serves as a dorm for Akureyri Junior College) during the academic season and dropped off our luggage in the room. The room was quite large and spacious with large windows and a nice view of the lawn. It would have been a very nice dorm room!

Initially, we wanted to eat an early dinner and decided to stop by Aurora Restaurant. Even though we were there quite early, all the tables were booked (the restaurant looked empty). We were surprised that the staff could not find us a table. As a precaution, we made a reservation for 20:30 (but ended up not needing it), and decided to explore the nearby Akureyri Botanical Gardens.

The Botanical Gardens were very nice, and not overly large, and we strolled around, taking lots of photos. We noticed one of the cruise ships departing and took lots of photos. Akureyri is a very popular cruise port (as we saw cruise ships docked each day we were there).

From the Akureyri Botanical Gardens, we walked to Akureyri downtown, following freshly painted houses. Akureyri looks very well-maintained and well-run. We enjoyed strolling by the bookstores and restaurants.

We heard from our guide (and ChatGPT) that Rub23 restaurant was one of the very best in town, and I figured that there would be no chance of getting a table there (without booking ahead of time). Inna and I walked in at around 18:30 to try to get a table, anyway.

Shockingly, we were asked to wait, and were eventually seated! It was a wonderful, pleasant surprise (especially after being turned down by Aurora earlier). After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items (basically, the chef's summer menu):

• Boris: Summer Menu (Hamachi, Salmon)
• Inna: Summer Menu (Hamachi, Lamb)

The sushi, lamb, and salmon were all exceptional, and we really enjoyed our delicious dinner. It was expensive (just over $200 for two people) but exceptional.

After dinner, we walked to the shore and discovered a classic European car show/meetup. We took photos of a few classic European cars. I recognized the VW Beetle and a few other makes, but others were completely unknown to me.

We walked back to our hotel to rest and relax, briefly stopping at the beautiful Akureyrarkirkja (the main church), to take photos.

My wife wrote the following about the day's encounter:

Вчера мы гуляли в очень красивом базальтовом каньоне, потом заехали на симпатичную ферму где вкусно попили кофейку, познакомились с практически ручным оленем, потом купались в натуральных геотермальных источниках, после этого небольшой хайк в полях лавы с причудливыми каменными структурами и пещерами, потом еще один потрясающий водопад. Вечером приехали в очень симпатичный городок Акьюрери, который находится на берегу самого длинного фьорда в Исландии (около 60 километров). Там сходили в небольшой, но очень милый ботанический сад, очень вкусно поужинали и погуляли по городу, там набрели на тусовку автолюбителей antique cars, в общем день удался! 

Day Review (July 30)

Highlights

• Seeing multiple waterfalls, including the following:
• Rjúkandi Waterfall
• Godafoss Waterfall
• Hengifoss Waterfall
• Exploring the stunning Stuðlagil Canyon
• Floating and relaxing in Mývatn Nature Baths
• Exploring unique lava formations in Lava Field Dimmuborgir
• Exploring Akureyri
• Dining at Rub23 in Akureyri
• Visiting the Akureyri Botanical Gardens.
• Strolling through Akureyri downtown
• Seeing the classic European cars show 
• Photographing the beautiful Akureyrarkirkja Church
• Petting the friendly, domesticated reindeer on the Möðrudalur/Fjalladýrð  farm

Lowlights

• Swatting away pesky "my" flies on Lake Myvatn
• Missing out on photos and hiking opportunities to Hengifoss waterfall
• Spending too much time at rest stops

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Puffin Encounter, Iceland (July 29)

Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Starting: Adventure Hotel Hof, Fagurhólsmýri, Iceland

Ending: Wilderness Center, Egilstaðir, Iceland

Highlights: Eastfjords, Djúpivogur, Borgarfjarðarhöfn, Puffins, Wilderness Center

In the morning, we woke at 06:30 to get ready for another busy day. Our guide had planned to show us Puffins (which required extra driving time). It was slightly drizzly outside, with poor visibility, exactly the weather I had been worried about encountering. Hopefully, our drive to the eastern side of Iceland would let us escape to the sunnier side of the island.

As we began our drive east, our guide pointed out the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon Hotel, the most expensive hotel in this part of Iceland, which is always sold out. When it was being built, the locals thought that this hotel would go bankrupt, but it turned out to be extremely successful.

In 1771, reindeer were brought by Norwegian traders, and a small population of them learned to adapt and survive in East Iceland. Currently, the reindeer population is estimated to be between 4,000 to 5,000 animals. Iceland offers a short reindeer hunting season between July 15 to September 15, covering most hunting areas in East Iceland. Permits to hunt up to 1,200 reindeer are purchased by prospective hunters.

Nearby, in Hali, an extremely famous Icelandic author - Þórbergur Þórðarson (often anglicized as Thorbergur Thordarson, pronounced roughly THOR-ber-gur THOR-thar-son) was born, and we drove by his birthplace home.

Þórbergur was a pioneering figure in Icelandic literature, known for his brilliance in language, irony, satire, and bold experimental style—especially in auto-fiction. He was nicknamed “Maestro Þórbergur” for his unmatched vocabulary and expressive fluency.

Signature Works:

• Bréf til Láru (Letters to Lára, 1924): A sharply satirical critique of capitalism, organized religion, and societal hypocrisy, which led to the loss of his teaching post but firmly established his literary voice.

• Íslenzkur aðall (Icelandic Nobility, 1938) and Ofvitinn (The Eccentric, 1940–41): Largely autobiographical, blending personal narrative with broader social commentary 

• Steinarnir tala (The Stones Speak, 1956): A childhood memoir rooted in his rural upbringing—translated into English and widely praised for its vivid storytelling and strong sense of place. 

In Iceland, Arctic Char and Salmon are usually farmed, while Cod, Haddock, and Pollack are fished in the North Atlantic. We found Arctic Char available throughout Iceland.

Höfn (pronounced "Hub") is the Lobster fishing Capital of Iceland.  We stopped by Hofn for coffee and restrooms.

Our next stop was the Hvalnes Lighthouse. The weather was still drizzly, with poor visibility and fog everywhere. We walked around for some exercise, but all the surrounding beauty was hidden by the fog.

We continued our drive to Djupivogur, where we walked around the small town, stopping for lunch at Langabúð - Café. There were limited selections on the menu, and we chose the following:

• Boris: Goulash soup, bread, coffee
• Inna: Salmon "open-faced" sandwich, Goulash soup, bread, coffee

For dessert, we decided to stop by the Hafið bistro, where we selected the following:

• Dessert: Raspberry Jelly Cake (Kaka)
• Drinks: hot black tea

The Raspberry Jelly Cake was excellent. Note, cakes in Iceland are called "kaka" in Icelandic, which translates as "poop" to Russian speakers.

There was an interesting artistic exhibit of egg statues (Eggin i Gleõivik) of Icelandic birds in Djupivogur, and we stopped by for a look. The large, oversized, oval eggs were impressive. However, we couldn't tell their English name (or how oversized they were).

Our next stop was at Nykurhylsfoss (Sveinsstekksfoss). We hiked for a short time to a bridge that overlooked a beautiful gorge, with views of the ocean. We took lots of photos, but could not cross the bridge to the other side (as the gate was locked by the farmer who owned the property). The weather was starting to clear up, and we were hopeful that we could finally see all the beautiful cliffs and waterfalls around us.

We continued our drive to Borgarfjarðarhöfn (to see and photograph Puffins) with a couple more stops on the way. We drove by Hænubrekkufoss waterfall without stopping. Hopefully, next time, we will have time to stop for photos.

As we continued our drive, we stopped in Egilsstaðir for snacks, bathrooms (WC), and fuel. Note, the Iceland fueling stations (N1) have extensive attached mini-marts, selling a diverse set of items, though snacks and junk food predominate. We were shocked to see how much junk food (chips, chocolate, soda, etc.) our travel group consumed. I have purchased a chocolate bar once (and a smoothie on another occasion), but I usually refrained from purchasing junk food.

Bjorn told us a bit about Dyrfjöll  "Door" Mountains and the amazing hiking there. Here are more details from ChatGPT and Bjorn:

About Dyrfjöll & Stórurð
Dyrfjöll, meaning “Door Mountains,” is a jagged volcanic ridge rising to 1,136 m. Its most striking feature is a massive arch-like gap—roughly 856 m high—carved by glacial erosion.

Located by the remote Borgarfjörður Eystri in East Iceland, Dyrfjöll is geologically ancient and formed between 12 and 3 million years ago.

Trail Overview & Route
Most hikes begin at Vatnskarð pass (road 94), about a 50-minute drive from Egilsstaðir, where there’s a parking area, visitor hut, and toilet facilities.

From the pass, the trail ascends gently at first, offering views over Héraðsflói bay (north) and Dyrfjalladalur valley (south).

You’ll then descend into Urðardalur (Stórurð) valley—home to hundreds of giant rocks and turquoise streams, and ponds.

Distance: ~7.5 km one way (~15 km round-trip). Estimated time: 2.5–3 hours one way, or about 7 hours total, including exploring time. 

For those who want to minimize carryng heavy backpacking gear, hut-to-hut hiking is available. (Small huts are strategically located to allow hiking with daypacks only). 

Stórurð (“Giant Boulder Valley”) lies at the base of Dyrfjöll and features massive tuff blocks, glacial ponds, and mossy meadows—often compared to troll landscapes from Norse mythology. 

After many hours of driving, we finally arrived at Borgarfjarðarhöfn, the best location to view and photograph Puffins in Iceland. After being dropped off, we climbed a small structure to see puffins in action. 

Puffins live in their self-designated, burrowed holes, where they raise and feed their young chicks. We could see puffins fly in and fly out, but had difficulty seeing them inside their burrowed holes. On several occasions, I spotted puffins walking and was able to take photographs.

The Nikon P900 superzoom camera (brought specifically for birding and whale watching) was acting up. My Nikon P900 complained that the batteries were going low, even though I had charged them recently. Perhaps the Nikon batteries were going bad? I managed to take a few photos before the battery died completely.

In Borgarfjarðarhöfn, there is a KHB Brugghús Brewery and a building that used to be a giant freezer that has been turned into a hotel.

On the way to the Wilderness Center hotel, we stopped at  Strorud Visitor overlook on an absolutely beautiful, clear day. The weather had cleared, and we enjoyed staring at the beautiful Icelandic coastline.

Arriving at Wilderness Center, we got our keys (from the note left by the staff) and quickly dropped off our luggage in our room and hurried to dinner. Since Inna and I selected lamb, we sat together along with all other guests who had also chosen lamb.

Our dinner consisted of the following:

• Drinks: Bjor beer, sparkling water
• Main: lamb
• Dessert: rhubarb

After dinner, we stopped by the Museum of Icelandic Life. It had multiple exhibits on the hardships of surviving in Iceland.

Day Review(July 29)

Highlights

• Observing Puffins in their natural habitat on Borgarfjarðarhöfn
• Walking along the gorge in Nykurhylsfoss
• Waterfalls:
• Hænubrekkufoss waterfall 

Lowlights

• Drizzly weather
• Poor visibility in the morning (especially on the way to Hvalnes Lighthouse)
• The food at Langabúð - Café was fairly bland.

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Hiking the Skaftafell Glacier, Iceland (July 28)

Monday, July 28, 2025

Starting: Geirland Hotel, Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Ending: Adventure Hotel Hof, Fagurhólsmýri
Highlights: Skaftafell Glacier, Jökulsarlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Fjallsjökull Lagoon

I woke at 06:15, showered, shaved, and packed my suitcase and backpack. Our Arctic Adventures tour guide had a planned early departure time of 07:45, and we needed to start eating breakfast at 07:00.

When we reached the hotel's dining room, it was packed with people. It looked like other parties also had early departure times and were eager to complete their breakfast, too. The breakfast buffet was very basic, with the common staples like boiled eggs, cheese, and yogurt. 

Inna and I got some plain Skyr yogurt with strawberry jam, a few cold cuts, and some cheese. I tried some pastries too (miniature croissants), but they were unappetizing.  After a couple of cups of coffee, we were done with breakfast.

We quickly checked out and brought over the suitcases to load up in the van. I wish our guide had brought the van closer to the hotel so that I would not have had to carry each of the suitcases by hand.

At 07:45, right on time, we started our one-hour drive to Vatnajökull, where our group would be handed off to Glacier Hiking guides.

On the way there, we drove by the beautiful Stjórnarfoss Waterfall (to which we had hiked one day earlier). We also drove by Foss a Sidu Waterfall, another beautiful soaring waterfall near the coast. 

As we kept driving, we crossed many Lava Fields and glacier rivers.

Once we reached Vatnajökull, we walked toward one of the Arctic Adventure's huts and waited for our turn to pick up the required glacier hiking gear. However, there was some mix-up, and the expected 08:40 guide did not show up. Bjorn, our guide, worked the phone to get us a replacement guide, and he arranged for us to start at 09:40 (one hour later).

We patiently waited, and at 09:40, we picked up our helmets, ice axe, harness, and crampons, and waited for our guide to show us how to put them on correctly.

We boarded the bus to take us to the drop-off point for Skaftafell Glacier. We started walking with our guides, who used the fast pace to split our large group into two smaller groups. Inna and I ended up in the fast group, and our glacier guide Jatzik (from Poland) led the way to the glacier.

The first part of the hike was going over rocky terrain, uphill, at a fast pace for about 20 minutes. Once we stepped onto the glacier, we stopped to put on our crampons and to better understand how to use the ice axes for better stability.

We continue the hike up the glacier, being extremely careful when going over crevasses and moulins.

A crevasse is a deep, open crack or fracture in the surface of a glacier or ice sheet. It forms because of the movement and stress within the glacier as it flows over uneven terrain or changes speed. These stresses cause the brittle upper layer of the glacier to break apart, creating deep fissures.

A moulin is a nearly vertical shaft or hole in a glacier through which surface meltwater flows down into the glacier.

• Formation: Moulins form when meltwater on the glacier's surface finds a crack or weak point and enlarges it through erosion, drilling downwards.

• Shape: They are often cylindrical or funnel-shaped and can extend tens to hundreds of meters deep, reaching down to the base of the glacier.

• Purpose: Moulins act as drainage systems, carrying meltwater from the glacier surface deep into or beneath the ice, which can lubricate the glacier's base and affect its movement.

• Difference from crevasses: Unlike crevasses (which are open cracks), moulins are more like "water shafts" within the glacier. 

Jatzik taught us how to identify crevasses and moulins and explained the extreme dangers of moulins. On some of the crevasses, he used the ice axe to build steps, so that we could ascend with less danger.

We had a fantastic time hiking on the glacier, taking multiple photos. It was a beautiful day and we were extremely lucky with the weather as it was sunny a times. Jatzik explained that he had rain for 8 out of 10 days (and hikers came back soaked).

When our group returned from the glacier hike, we boarded the bus and were taken back to the main base camp (Vatnajökull National Park). Since some of our party were missing and we did not see our guide, we decided to eat lunch at the Glacier Goodies food truck nearby,

We ordered the following for a quick lunch at Glacier Goodies food truck:

• Drinks: 2 x Coffee
• Main: 2 x Fish & Chips

The fried cod in my Fish & Chips was not bad, and the lunch was acceptable (though not noteworthy).

After lunch, we returned to our bus and continued a short drive to Jokulsárlon Glacier Lagoon, where numerous icebergs are floating before being swept toward the open Atlantic Ocean. There were a number of kayakers and zodiacs (small inflatable boats with outboard engines) being used to show the icebergs to tourists. In addition, we saw 2 DUKWs, "ducks" (amphibious boats that can drive on land and maneuver on water). The DUKWs are offered by Ice Lagoon and could be a good way to reach the many icebergs in Jokulsárlon lagoon (though they are very noisy).

After taking numerous photos, we drove to the nearby Diamond Beach (Black Beach), where we saw fewer icebergs on the beach (and a few being swept away from the lagoon).

Finally, we drove to the nearby Fjallsjökull Glacier Laggon, with numerous icebergs floating about. We even heard the "thunder" of the ice cracking.

We were finally finished with the day's activities and headed to Adventure Hótel Hof, where we would spend the night and eat dinner. After arriving and unloading, we changed out of our hiking gear and headed for dinner. Our whole group (18 total) was slowly trickling in.

We ordered the following items for dinner from the menu:

• Boris: Hof's Burger (4,500 ISK), Local Beer (1500 ISK)
• Inna: Hof's Burger (4,500 ISK)
• Dessert: Burnt Cheesecake (2,900 ISK)

Inna initially wanted to order Lamb, but seeing that no one had ordered it, switched to Hof's Burger. The burger was pretty good (but expensive).

After dinner, it started drizzling. We decided to do a short walk, and walked around the property for 10 minutes.

My wife summarized the day's events in Russian here: 

Второй день путешествия вокруг Исландии. Тема сегодняшнего дня - ледники и айсберги. В первой половине дня - ледниковый хайк, нам выдали серьёзную экипировку - специальные крепления с шипами которые одеваются прямо на hiking boots, ледяные топорики, шлемы и harness. Цель harness не совсем была понятна, информация от лидера хайка была туманна, наверное не хотел нас пугать, наверное она была нужна на всякий случай, если мы упадём в какую нибудь расщелину это бы облегчило задачу спасения. Цель ледяного топорика тоже была не ясна сначала, но потом выяснилось, что его нужно использовать как палку для ходьбы. У нас был очень хороший ведущий хайка - мальчик из Польши, который хорошо рассказывал о ледниках и было очень интересно всё это видеть наглядно, я узнала много нового! Произвели впечатление ледниковые колодцы и расщелины. Виды там просто эпические - возможно потому что для меня это что то новое, я никогда раньше не была на настоящем леднике, только издалека видела во время круиза на Аляску. Потом поехали смотреть ледниковую лагуну, с плавающими айсбергами, вдоль неё прогулка и ещё там недалеко "Бриллиантовый пляж" на который эти айсберги выносит сильнейшим течением. Там ещё видели тюленей. И ещё видели ледник с другой стороны где он сразу переходит в красивое озеро и там тоже плавают живописные айсберги.

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Touring the Golden Circle, Iceland (July 27)

Sunday, July 27, 2025

Starting: Hotel Island, Reykjavik

Ending: Geirland Hotel, Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Highlights: Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss, Strokkur Geyser, Seljalandsfoss, Skogafoss,  Reynisfjara, Vikurfjara Black Sand Beach, Vík

I woke at 06:30, showered, dressed, and packed my bags. Inna also woke up and dressed. After our bags were packed, we took the elevator downstairs to try our prepaid breakfast.

The Hotel Island's one large breakfast room was packed with guests, and most tables were already taken. We found a free table and selected a few items from the breakfast buffet:

• Boris: Skyr Yogurt with nuts & granola, scrambled eggs, cold cuts, cappuccino
• Inna: Skyr Yogurt with nuts & granola

The buffet was decent, but did not have the wide variety of meats and pastries (common in more luxury hotels). After finishing breakfast, we returned to our room, picked up our luggage, and then rode downstairs to check out. 

Our Arctic Tours Mercedes-Benz mini-bus was already there, and our guide and driver, Bjorn, was waiting for us. He was impatient to get going, as he had a few more stops to make to pick up the other guests. We had learned later that he arrived at 07:45 and was expecting us to be ready earlier (but this was never communicated to us). We quickly loaded our suitcases and backpacks on the mini-bus and boarded. All 19 seats on the bus would be used.

The bus turned out to be a brand-new Mercedes-Benz, and it had an excellent audio system but limited space for luggage. Bjorn used a separate trailer to tow our luggage.

Our first stop was in Hakið, Þingvöllum (in Thingvellir National Park Visitor Center). The plan was to disembark in the parking lot, hike a small section of the gorge, and then reboard the bus at a later bus stop. During the hike, we would see the summer residence of Iceland's Prime Minister.

We did not realize how cold and windy it was, and I was a bit shocked when I left the bus. I had my Patagonia fleece on, but it was still too cold. Inna and I continued on, taking photos and marvelling at the beautiful gorge and the row of white cottages for Iceland's prime minister. Thankfully, in the gorge, the wind abated and we were able to continue the hike more comfortably.

I decided to retrieve all my thermal underwear and Lululemon jacket (and put them on in the nearby bathroom), so I wouldn't have to endure another hike unprepared. I warmed up quite quickly on the bus.

About 30 minutes later, we made another quick stop at Laugarvatn. This is a small place with Fontana Spa on a thermally heated lake. Instead of the spa (for which we had no time), we visited the beach to see a demonstration of how local Icelander villagers bake their bread in the sand. Due to thermal activity, the sand has a temperature of 65-70 degrees Celsius, which is ideal for baking bread. 

The correct procedure is to wrap the bread, dig a hole in the sand, and place the covered bread in the hole, marking the top with a stone (to indicate who it belongs to). About 24 hours later, when the bread has baked, it can be retrieved.

Our next stop was the Efstidalur farm. It's a small farm with a coffee/ice cream shop. We could see how the cows were eating hay. We decided to try the homemade ice cream, selecting rhubarb and salted caramel. Both rhubarb and salted caramel were delicious.

Our drive continued toward the Gullfoss waterfall, initially passing by the Geyser Center area. Gullfoss is a multisection waterfall, with a short walking trail from the parking lot. I was worried about the heavy spray coming off and decided not to bring my new Canon R8 camera, instead shooting the waterfall with my iPhone 14 Pro. It turned out to be an unnecessary precaution, as the spray was minimal and many other photographers had brought their 35mm DSLRs to shoot the waterfall. Next time, I will bring my Canon R8 mirrorless camera to shoot the waterfall, as this time I shot with my iPhone 14 Pro only.

Gullfoss ("Golden Falls"; Icelandic pronunciation:ⓘ [ˈkʏtl̥ˌfɔsː]) is a waterfall located in the canyon of the Hvítá river in southwest Iceland. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country, and is included in "Golden Circle" tours of the countryside near Reykjavík.

When we finished wth Gullfoss, we were driven to the nearby Geyser Center area, to eat lunch and to explore the Geysers. The Geyser Center had an eatery serving fish & chips and a few other items. Inna and I ordered Fish & Chips. The Fish & Chips were tolerable, but we had difficulty finding seats. In addition, the whole place was overrun by tourists (there were multiple tourist buses parked). It was not an enjoyable lunch.

After lunch, we walked towards the Strokkur Geyser and waited a few minutes before it shot a small flume of water and steam. If you blink, you might miss it. Inna and I were able to record it (on photo and video), but it's not as impressive as the "Old Faithful" geyser in Yellowstone.

Strokkur is a fountain-type geyser located in a geothermal area beside the Hvítá River in Iceland in the southwest part of the country, east of Reykjavík. It typically erupts every 6–10 minutes. Its usual height is 15–20 metres (49–66 ft), although it can sometimes erupt up to 40 metres (130 ft) high.

We boarded the bus at the required time and continued the drive to Seljalandsfoss, a spectacular waterfall, and one of our favorites in Iceland. Unlike other waterfalls, in Seljalandsfoss, one can walk underneath and behind it. Inna had visited this waterfall in her previous trip with her Photofly Iceland tour.  I decided to bring my GoPro Hero10 camera (which is waterproof) along with my iPhone 14 Pro Max to record the waterfall. Both Inna and I wore waterproof pants & jackets to avoid getting soaked. I really enjoyed photographing Seljalandsfoss and hope to come back to see it in the future.

Seljalandsfoss is located in the South Region in Iceland right by Route 1 and the road that leads to Þórsmörk Road 249.[2] The waterfall drops 60 m (197 ft) and is part of the Seljalands River that has its origin in the volcano glacier Eyjafjallajökull.[3] Visitors can walk behind the falls into a small cave.

Our next stop was to see Skogafoss, a wide and very powerful waterfall. There was a steep hike to the top of the waterfall (400+ steps), but our guide warned us that the upper view was not necessarily superior. We decided to skip the steep ascent and enjoy the view from the bottom (taking many excellent photos).

Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). Due to the amount of spray the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow is normally visible on sunny days. Visitors can be drenched if they go too near the waterfall, again due to the spray.[2] According to legend, the first Viking settler in the area, Þrasi Þórólfsson, buried a treasure in a cave behind the waterfall. The legend continues that locals found the chest years later, but were only able to grasp the ring on the side of the chest before it disappeared again. The ring was allegedly given to the local church. The old church door ring is now in the Skógar museum.

We continued our drive to Vikurfjara Black Sand Beach, where we stopped by for 30 minutes, to enjoy the black sandy beach and the amazing basalt columns. Our guide warned us to stay away from the ocean, as there is a dangerous sneaker wave that can come at any time. People have been known to get soaked and even swept into the ocean. We mostly stayed on the Black Sand Beach and enjoyed watching other people climbing the basalt structures.

For a snack and a restroom break, we stopped by the town of Vik to get a few energy bars (for the upcoming glacier hike planned for the next day). The Vik's supermarket was crazy busy, and we ended up waiting a long time in the checkout line. We purchased a few snacks for the upcoming Gacier hike.

We continued our drive through Lava Fields, arriving at the Geirland Hotel, Kirkjubæjarklaustur. In this part of Iceland, there are few artificial lights, so it's an ideal place to watch the Northern Lights, especially from October to February. For Northern Lights, moonless nights are best.

After getting our keys, we moved our suitcases to our room and dressed for dinner. Our room was Spartan but functional, and it had everything we required.

We walked across the street to the Geirland Hotel's reception and dining area and sat down at a very long table prepared for our 18 (guests) + 1 (guide) group. We were the last couple to join the large group and ended up sitting next to Bjorn (our guide).

We ordered the following items from the limited menu:

• Boris: Beef Burger (ISK4500), Somersby Apple Cider (1300 ISK)
• Inna: Smoked Char Salad (ISK 5500)

My beef burger was excellent, as was Inna's Smoked Char Salad. My Somersby Apple Cider was good, but a tad too sweet.

To pay for dinner, we had to show our key to the hotel's receptionist and pay him with a credit card. This way of payment seems to be common in Iceland (but unusual to me).

After dinner, we decided to hike over to the beautiful Stjórnarfoss Waterfall we drove by earlier. It was about a 20-minute walk from our hotel. A few people were camping near the waterfall, but we were mostly alone. 

Inna wrote a nice summary of our first day:

Сегодня первый день путешествия вокруг Исландии. Золотой круг - очень насыщенный день - столько природной красоты! Хайк в очень красивом каньоне, заехали на "горячее" озеро, они там очень интересно пекут ржаной хлеб - закапывают кастрюлю полностью обернутую пленкой в песок и пекут целый день при стабильной температуре 60-70 градусов цельсия. Видели 3 очень красивых водопада - в один можно было зайти как будто изнутри под скалой и это очень клёво - промокли бы до нитки если бы не были правильно одеты. Места конечно очень туристические, это основной сезон для туризма в Исландии, но такая красота того стоит. Группа 18 человек - я бы конечно предпочла поменьше, но нам это никак не мешает. Пока все очень пунктуалные и никто не опаздывает, так что все хорошо. Ещё видели гейзеры, пляж с чёрным песком и очень интересными базальтовыми структурами, заезжали на молчную ферму где попробовали вкусное местное мороженое. Вечером после ужина завершили день уже нашим собственным хайком к ещё одному красивейшему водопаду, где кроме нас никого не было.

Day Review (July 27)

Highlights

• Seeing spectacular waterfalls:
• Gullfoss
• Seljalandsfoss (walking behind)
• Skogafosse
• Godafoss (Mini Niagara)
• Kolugljúfur Canyon Waterfall
• Glacier Hiking:
• Skaftatell Glacier Hike
• Visiting thermal spas:
• Blue Lagoon
• Sky Lagoon Hot Spring Spa
• Mývatn Nature Baths
• Canyons & Parks
• Thingvellir National Park
• Whale watching in Akureyri
• Special Tours - Whale Watching

Lowlights

• Not stopping to see and photograph other waterfalls
• Not having enough time to fully savor all the waterfalls

Links

• Arctic Adventures 

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