Thursday, December 26, 2024

Innsbruck, Austria

Inna reserved four nights at the Hotel Innsbruck from December 26 - 30, 2024. We wanted to explore the Christmas Markets, visit popular local museums, and ski in the area.

I sent an email to the Hotel Innsbruck to inquire about snowboard rentals in the area:

1. Where is the best/closest snowboard/ski rental shop (near the hotel)?
We recommended „Die Boerse“ for rental equipment
https://www.dieboerse.at/en/

2. Are there snowboard storage lockers in the hotel? If not, where do you recommend to store them?
You can store your snowboard in our ski depot anytime you need it.

3. Is there a hotel ski shuttle to Nordkette? If not, how do we get there?

According to your reservation, you will stay four nights in our hotel, therefore we can send you the day of your arrival the ‘welcome card’ with which you will be able to use all the public transport in the city as well as some discounts. Here is the form:

https://www.hotelinnsbruck.com/de/innsbruck-aufenthaltsplaner-vom-innsbruck-team/welcome-card/

Just around the corner from the hotel is the bus stop „Marktplatz“ and there you can take the bus ‘J’ heading to Hungerburg.
4. Which ski resorts can be easily reached by train?

5. Is there any cross-country skiing nearby? (If so, where and how far away?)

We have also information on our website about the ski resorts near the city and how you can reach them:

https://www.hotelinnsbruck.com/en/destination-innsbruck--stay-planner-by-innsbruck-team/skiing/



Thursday, December 26, 2024

On arrival at Innsbruck's train station from St. Anton at 12:11, we boarded a taxi (at the curb) and were quickly dropped off at Hotel Innsbruck. Our driver wasn't sure all 3 of our large suitcases would fit, but somehow squeezed them into the car.

We checked into Hotel Innsbruck and dropped off our bags, as our room #320 was not yet ready. We decided to eat lunch and looked around for nearby restaurants.

At first, we stopped by Altstadt-Schmankerl, but it was closed (December 26 is a significant holiday in Austria), so we continued to another highly rated Greek restaurant, Akropolis.

We sat down at Akropolis and ordered the following items. All the dishes were excellent, but the service was slow and uneven.

  • Drinks: Hot Tea x 3
  • Soups: Kotosoupa (Chicken Broth)
  • Appetizer: Tzatziki with Pita, Octopus
  • Alex: Samos Pfanne
  • Inna: Juvetsaki
  • Boris: Mousaka
The Tzatziki was excellent, and the Chicken Soup was delicious too. My Mousaka was delicious, and Alex loved his lamb (Samos Pfanne). Overall, we ate a tasty lunch! I wished the waiter were better at refilling our hot tea. I had a sore throat and wanted to drink a lot of hot fluids.



After lunch, we explored the downtown area, stopping by the Christmas Markets (sampling hot chocolate and warm Glühwein). We took many photos of the Golden Roof and the many colorful creatures attached to buildings.



We also stopped by Dieborse Ski Rental, but it was closed. Even though we arrived during its regular operating hours (15:00 - 18:00) and there was an "OPEN" sign, the door was locked, and no one was inside. Other ski shops were also closed (the day after Christmas appears to be a significant holiday in Austria). 



We returned to the hotel and rested for some time. Alex, then Inna, went to use the saunas and the pool. Since I had a severe cold, I decided to relax in our #320 room.



For dinner, we decided to walk downstairs to the Hotel's Zirbenstube Restaurant. Today, the restaurant had a live pianist playing the following songs: 
  • Autumn Leaves
  • Girl from Ipanema 
  • Ochi Chyornye
  • The Godfather Theme
After looking at the menu, we ordered the following:
  • Alex: Lamb Filet, Hot Tea
  • Boris: Tomato Soup, Seafood Platter (scallops), Hot Early Grey
  • Inna: Beef Soup, Seafood Platter, Radler, Hot Tea
  • Dessert: Chocolate Soufflé
The Tomato Soup did not taste half bad, but the Seafood entrees were average. 



The Chocolate Soufflé was too dry. I did enjoy the live piano music, and the service was quick and efficient.





Friday, December 27, 2024

I woke at 08:30, showered, and dressed. When both Inna and Alex were ready, we walked downstairs for breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck.



After sitting down, I ordered some a la carte items and others from the self-serve island. Overall, the breakfast selections were of average quality (a bit disappointing for a 4-star hotel):
  • Alex: Eggs, Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Boris: Omelet (with vegetables, ham), Peach Yogurt, Coffee
  • Inna:  Deli Meats, Latte, Hot Earl Grey Tea
Aside from the basic omelet, nothing else was particularly remarkable in the buffet. I would have preferred better-quality pastries and a greater variety of cold cuts.

After breakfast, we dressed warmly and decided to go for a short one-hour hike recommended by ChatGPT - the Nordkette Panorama Trail.


 
To reach the trail, we walked from the Innsbruck Hotel to the Altstadt Station (the lower station of the Nordkette Funicular). I purchased 3 adult tickets for Hungerburg (where the trail was supposed to begin) and for the Alpine Zoo (which we also wanted to visit). 



We did not find the exact trail and instead walked along Hungerburgweg to Aussichtsplatz Steigerruhe and turned around (when the trail got steep). There was a lot of snow and a steep drop-off (and we did not want to take unnecessary risks).



Although we saw a few skiers and snowboarders at Nordkette, there were only a couple of open trails, and the snow was melting.




We explore the Alpine Zoo next, about which I write in a separate blog post here:
We returned to the Innsbruck Hotel (Alex decided to use the hotel's sauna), while Inna and I strolled through the old town, taking photos. 



I had made a reservation for dinner at Restaurant Zum Wohl Tirol for 19:30. When Inna returned from shopping, she rested briefly before going to dinner.



We met Alex at Restaurant Zum Wohl Tirol, but the wrong one! There are two identical Restaurants, Zum Wohl Tirol, near each other. I had made reservations at the other one, and we walked over. After sitting down, we ordered the following items (see menu.com for the menu):
  • Soups: 3 x Tom Kha Gai 
  • Boris: Radler (30cl), Chicken Tschakka
  • Inna: Hot Tea, Oklahoma Onion Smash Burger - Innsbruck Edition
  • Alex: Hot Tea, Pulled Pork Cheese Fries
The drinks were brought out quickly, but the Tom Kha Gai soups and the entrees took some time (20+ minutes). They were all delicious!



The old town was mostly deserted at 22:00, and I thought there would be more life on Friday night.


Saturday, December 28, 2024

I woke at 08:15, showered, shaved, and dressed. When both Inna and Alex were ready, we walked downstairs for breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck.



I ordered the omelet and coffee from the waitress and picked up the others from the self-serve island. Overall, the food was of average quality, and we selected the following items:
  • Alex: Scrambled Eggs, Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Boris: Omelet (with vegetables, ham), Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Inna:  Omelet (with vegetables, ham), Latte, Hot Earl Grey Tea
After breakfast, Inna and I decided to walk to Schloss Ambras in Innsbruck (a 4.2 km/1-hour walk through downtown Innsbruck). 
 


I write about Schloss Ambras (Ambras Castle) in a separate blog post here:
On the way back from Schloss Ambras, we decided to stop for lunch at Das Schindler (on the 2nd floor), and Alex met us a few minutes later. We ordered the following items:

  • Soups: 2 x Beef Boullion
  • Boris: Radler, Large Wiener Salad
  • Inna: Small Wiener Schnitzel, Hot Tea
  • Alex: Large Wiener Schnitzel, Hot Tea
  • Dessert: Apple Strudel
The Beef Soup was excellent, and my salad was tasty. Inna and Alex liked their Wiener Schnitzel. The Apple Strudel was small but delicious.


We strolled a bit around downtown and near the Inn River.



For dinner, Inna made a reservation for 19:30 at Il Convento (a nearby Italian restaurant we had visited many years ago). After walking there for 5 minutes, we waited to be seated (about 10 minutes while our table was being prepared) and were then led downstairs. After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items:
  • Drinks: San Pellegrino x 2
  • Alex: Filetto di Manzo (Beef)
  • Boris: Insalata Mista, Ravioli Ricotta
  • Inna: Insalata Ricola, Tagliatelle Tartufo
  • Dessert: Chocolate Tort with Pistachio Ice Cream
While table service was spotty, the entrees were excellent. My Insalata Misto didn't have any dressing, and it tasted fine (once I added olive oil and balsamic vinegar). The Ravioli Ricotta was excellent (I could tell the pasta was freshly made). Inna raved about her Tagliatelle Tartufo. Alex's beef (Filetto di Manzo) was also exceptional.



After dinner, we strolled around downtown for a bit, taking photos (until we felt a bit too cold).

Sunday, December 29, 2024

I woke at 08:15, showered, and dressed. When both Inna and Alex were ready, we walked downstairs for breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck.



After sitting down for breakfast, the waiter kept ignoring us. Inna finally managed to get hold of a waiter, who fetched us coffee (Inna made the hot tea herself). I selected the following items from the breakfast island:
  • Alex: Scrambled Eggs, Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Boris: Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Inna:  Poached Egg, Latte, Hot Earl Grey Tea
After breakfast, we decided to stroll around the Inn River (which flows through the city) for a few hours. It was nice to see various houses and other people strolling. We saw many dog walkers and bicyclists.



Around 12:30, we stopped by Der Bäcker Ruetz - Mariahilfpark (a local bakery chain) to warm up. We ordered the following items:
  • Boris: Espresso, pastry with poppy seeds
  • Inna: Latte, pastry with cream, water
While eating, we thought that Alex might want to join us (for lunch) and messaged him. He came over, and we also ordered an additional Wiener-Schnitzel sandwich. The pastries were good, but the schnitzel was just average.



After lunch, Alex decided to head to the local Starbucks to work on the program, while Inna and I decided to visit the Hofburg Palace & Museum. We purchased 2 adult tickets (10 euros/person) and walked on the 1st and 2nd floors. We learned a bit about the Hofburg Palace and Maximilian. According to Wikipedia:

Maximilian I (22 March 1459 – 12 January 1519) was King of the Romans from 1486 and Holy Roman Emperor from 1508 until he died in 1519. He was never crowned by the Pope, as the journey to Rome was blocked by the Venetians.[2] He proclaimed himself elected emperor in 1508 at Trent, with Pope Julius II later recognizing it.[3][4][5] This broke the tradition of requiring a papal coronation for the adoption of the Imperial title. Maximilian was the only surviving son of Frederick III, Holy Roman Emperor, and Eleanor of Portugal. Since his coronation as King of the Romans in 1486, he ran a double government, or Doppelregierung, with his father until Frederick died in 1493.[6][7]

Maximilian expanded the influence of the House of Habsburg through war and his marriage in 1477 to Mary, Duchess of Burgundy. However, he also lost his family's lands in Switzerland to the Swiss Confederacy. Through the marriage of his son Philip the Handsome to eventual queen Joanna of Castile in 1496, Maximilian helped to establish the Habsburg dynasty in Spain, which allowed his grandson Charles to hold the thrones of both Castile and Aragon.[8] Historian Thomas A. Brady Jr. describes him as "the first Holy Roman Emperor in 250 years who ruled as well as reigned" and the "ablest royal warlord of his generation".


After the museum, we stopped by the Golden Roof area to try the local Sauerkraut vendor and ordered a hot dog with sauerkraut. It was delicious (and much better than any hot dog in California)!



We walked a bit farther along the Inn River, then returned to see the Lumagica Christmas Light show.  


I have a separate blog post about it here:

For dinner, our hotel concierge made reservations at Ottorburg for 20:00. After about 10 minutes of waiting to be seated, we looked at the menu and ordered the following items (our waitress brought out the bread rolls quickly, but hot tea was slow to arrive).
  • Alex: Hot Tea, Chicken Breast Toscana (Huhnebrust) 
  • Boris: Radler, Tafelspitz, Salat der Saison
  • Inna: Grüner Veltliner, Hot Tea, Wilderpfand (Deer) 
  • Dessert: Fluffy Chocolate Mousse
My Tafelspitz (Boiled Beef with potatoes) was delicious, though not on par with Plachutta in Vienna. 



Inna's Wildpfand (Deer) was not bad. Alex liked his Chicken Bread ToscanaOttorburg was reasonably priced and well-run (though the service was a bit slow in bringing our hot tea).




Monday, December 30, 2024

After our usual tasteless breakfast, we ordered a taxi for 10:25 and checked out of our room (packing all of our belongings in the 3 large suitcases). After the cab dropped us off at the Innsbruck Train Station, we found platform #31 and waited for our train to Otztal/Langenfeld. I had pre-purchased 3 train/bus tickets using the OBB app on my iPhone (the day before).

We almost missed our train because it was parked much farther ahead, and we didn't realize it was the right train for Otztal. Luckily, we managed to board the train right before it departed.

After getting off in Otztal, we boarded bus #320 for Langenfeld (where Aquadome is located). Once we reached the Langenfeld Gemeindeamt Bus stop, we got off. It was a walk to Aquadome (I was surprised there was no closer stop). (It turned out that there was a closer stop, but Google Maps was not aware of it.

Innsbruck Trip Report

Highlights
  • Viewing the amazing Lumagica Christmas Light show (a major highlight!)
  • Walking around the old town and marveling at the cute decorations
  • Seeing alpine birds and mammals at the Alpine Zoo
  • Dining on fresh Italian pasta at Il Convento 
  • Dining on excellent Greek Food at the Akropolis restaurant
  • Dining on delicious burgers at Restaurant Zum Wohl Tirol
  • Visiting the amory at the Schloss Ambras Innsbruck (far away, need to ride the bus)
  • Visiting the Hofburg Palace to see paintings and beautifully furnished rooms (no photos allowed)
Lowlights
  • Catching a cold (sore throat and runny nose) for both Inna, Alex, and me
  • Poor snow conditions for snowboarding at Nordkette and other nearby resorts
  • Poor response from Dieborse Ski Rental 
    • The shop eventually responded to my emails, but it was too late to rent skis.
  • Mediocre Hotel Innsbruck 
    • Check-in / check-out usually had only one person working, so lines were long.
    • When I shattered a wine glass, I sent out an email and got no response
    • Unimpressive breakfast buffet with slow service
    • Uninspiring dinner (slow service, mediocre food)
Links











Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Hiking Verwall Trail in St. Anton

Wednesday, December 25, 2024

After breakfast, we decided to head into town and try hiking the Verwall Trail around Verwall Lake (the trail starts at  Hotel Mooserkreuz). 

According to our hotel's concierge and Snow-Online:

Verwall trail is considered one of the most beautiful trail sections in Austria. This 10-kilometer intermediate route starts near Hotel Mooserkreuz and leads into the scenic Verwall Valley.
Our hotel's shuttle quickly dropped us off at the Nasserein bus stop, where we boarded the free local bus No. 3 and rode a few more stops southwards. There, we boarded a different bus that dropped us off near Hotel Mooserkreuz. Since we forgot to bring the trail map, we stopped by Hotel Mooserkreuz for more explicit trail directions and learned that the trail started right across the street.



Upon entering the trail, we saw signs for Verwall Trail "Loipe Verwall", and a list of open cross-country trails. As we started our hike on the snow-cleared road (also frequented by buses), we saw nearby cross-country tracks (with well-defined lanes for each ski). 



We encountered many groups on the trail, including cross-country skiers, hikers, and dog walkers. 

Next time, bring cross-country skis!

After a 50-minute walk, we reached the Wagner Huette (which was quite busy) and were happy to learn that it was open on Christmas Day. We decided to stop for lunch (and to warm up) and sat down at an indoor table. We ordered the following lunch items:
  • Boris: Warm Glühwein, Goulash (Hungarian Soup), Sparkling water
  • Inna: Latte, Beef Soup with dumplings
I liked the warm Glühwein (wine), and my Goulash soup with a bread roll was delicious. Inna's Beef Soup was quite good, too. We heard a lot of English spoken, and many British skiers were dining there. St. Anton is extremely popular with British skiers, due to its reliable snowfall and vibrant après-ski scene (Krazy Kangaroo and Moosewirt).



We also noticed many downhill skiers and snowboarders arriving, so this trail is linked to St. Anton am Arlberg. After reaching this area, they board buses to return to the resort.



We realized we had not yet reached Verwall Lake and decided to continue on. We hiked further south, finding the snow-covered Verwall Lake (with small patches still unfrozen). As we continued hiking around the lake, we realized we needed to return to Wagner Huette because the rest of the trail was for cross-country skiers only (not hikers).



We decided to stop again at the Wagner Hutte to warm up before continuing on our hike. We ordered the following items (and shared a table with another Austrian couple). The Apple Strudel was enormous (and delicious), and the hot chocolate helped! 
  • Boris: Hot Chocolate, Apple Strudel
  • Inna: Hot Tea
It took us 3 hours to hike the 6.5-mile loop. Many sections of the Verwall Trail were slightly uphill and covered with freshly fallen snow, slowing forward progress. This trail could also be fun on cross-country skis (provided one knew how to brake in the downhill sections).



When we finished the trail, we ordered an UberX to take us back to our hotel. (We could have tried to ride the free buses back, but it would have taken a lot more time.)

 

Verwall Trail Report

Highlights
  • Enjoying the beautiful hike around Verwall Lake
  • Dining at Wagner Hutte
Lowlights
  • Not bringing our cross-country skis to this trail
Links

Monday, December 23, 2024

Snowboarding Ski Arlberg

I reserved two days of snowboarding, with the idea of extending it by one additional day if the snow conditions were excellent.


Here is a map of the Ski Arlberg Ski Resort:



Sunday, December 22, 2024 - Renting Snowboards
 
After lunch, we boarded the hotel's shuttle for a short ride to Nasserein, where we stopped by Alber Sport to pick up our rented snowboards.

We first tried out various snowboard boots, and Alex found that the K2 Maysis (10.5", 28.5 cm) fit his feet well. These same boots also worked for me (Alex and I have the same shoe size), but Alber Sport did not have any additional boots in this size. I had to rent a larger boot (11', 29cm), which was too large (and my foot moved around too much).



For snowboards, Alex selected a Burton Custom 168W (wide) version for better float on powder. I selected a similarly sized Capita Defenders of Awesome 163W snowboard. We also selected large helmets and picked our storage lockers (our hotel provided us with free locker access).

Both of our snowboards were set up with standard bindings. 

My snowboard was configured for the following duck stance:
  • +15 degrees (angled forward) for the front foot
  • -9 degrees (angled backward) in a classic duck stance. 
In general, a freeride snowboarding setup calls for the following duck stance:
  • +18 degrees for the forward foot
  • -6 degrees on the back foot
After we dropped off our boards in locker #142, we talked to Inna, who was also finishing up her cross-country ski rental. She planned to cross-country ski the next day and stored her gear in locker #143. The lockers can be opened with the St. Anton Ski Pass (once registered in the system).


Monday, December 23, 2024 - First Day of Snowboarding

We arrived at Nasserein at around 08:30 and had our lockers opened. We put on our snowboard boots and helmets. I noticed that my snowboard boots were too big and decided to try to change them later that day (which I did).



We boarded the Nasserein Gondola (there was a very long line, mostly of skiers). It was not very orderly, but we managed to get on and make it there. 
 
 Here is a GoPro Hero11 video that I recorded on the first run down the mountain.


 
 
The weather started sunny and beautiful, and not overly cold.
  



We boarded the Kapallbahn chairlift and snowboarded down nearby trails multiple times. The mountain had light powder, and we had an enjoyable time snowboarding down.



For lunch, we stopped at the Gampen Lodge/Restaurant. It's a very quaint, modern lodge with excellent facilities. We found a table and dropped off our wet gear (sharing it with another party). We ordered the following items:
  • Boris: Wiener Schnitzel with Fries, Pretzel, Hot Chocolate with Cream, Sparkling Water
  • Alex: Wiener Schnitzel with Fries, Hot Chocolate with Cream, Sparkling Water
The schnitzel was excellent, and the hot chocolate hit the spot!  The pretzel was not bad either. Given the amount of food and drinks, the overall cost was very reasonable at 60 euros. 



After lunch, we tried snowboarding on a different part of the mountain. By this time, the weather had turned cloudy, with very low visibility and blistering winds. Riding the chairlifts was less enjoyable, and seeing the moguls was more difficult.



My left foot started to hurt (probably because of the oversized snowboarding boot I was wearing). I had to overtighten it multiple times because my foot kept sliding around in it. 



At around 14:00, we stopped by the Gampen Lodge again for Hot Chocolate (to warm up). We rode the Nasserein Gondola back down because visibility was abysmal. We stopped by Alber Sport to drop off our snowboards and boots. Luckily, the shop had a smaller boot for me, and I swapped out my oversized snowboarding boots! After storing all the gear in the locker, we returned to the nearby shuttle/bus stop.



We met up with Inna (who had returned from her cross-country skiing adventure) and waited for the hotel shuttle to pick us up. At 13:30, the shuttle came by, and we were back in our hotel, resting. 


Tuesday, December 24, 2024 - Second Day Snowboarding

We arrived at Nasserein at around 08:45 and had our lockers opened. We put on our snowboard boots and helmets. Finally, my snowboard boots were the right size!



We boarded the Nasserein Gondola (there was a very short line, quite unexpected for Christmas Eve!).  
 
Here are a couple of GoPro Hero11 videos I recorded on this fabulous day:
 
 
Here is another GoPro Hero11 video:



 The weather was a bit cloudy, with light snow falling.



We did not expect such deep powder coverage. The snow forecast called for 4 inches, but there was a couple of feet of fresh powder on the tracks. 

It was awesome! An epic powder day!

We boarded the Kapallbahn chairlift and snowboarded down nearby trails multiple times. We were thrilled to have the chance to snowboard on such fantastic, fresh powder.



For lunch, we stopped at the Gampen Lodge/Restaurant. We found a table and dropped off our wet gear (sharing it with another party). 

My Telesin G3 carbon selfie stick (used to hold the GoPro Hero11 Black mini) had jammed during previous runs, and I tried to clear the jam, eventually succeeding. I also charged the GoPro Hero11, whose battery had died.

At the Gamden Lodge, we ordered the following items.
  • Boris: Spaghetti Bolognese, Espresso, Sparkling Water, Chocolate
  • Alex: Beef Soup, Latte, Sparkling Water
My Spaghetti Bolognese portion was huge and so delicious! I really enjoyed it! Alex liked his soup so much, he returned for a 2nd helping.



We continued to snowboard after lunch for a few more runs. We stopped by the Gampen Lodge for a light snack, where I ordered another espresso and chocolate (while Alex had a latte).

As my feet were tired and my left foot was hurting, we decided to end the day and ride the Nasserein Gondola back down to the village. We returned our snowboards, boots, and helmets and boarded the hotel shuttle to our hotel.

We were surprised to discover Christmas Presents from both the hotel (chocolates and a bottle of wine) and from Inna. It was very kind and thoughtful!
 
Snowboarding St. Anton Report

Highlights
  • Epic Powder Day on Tuesday, December 24
  • Light powder day on Monday, December 23

Lowlights
  • Alber Sport did not have the correct size snowboard boot for me
    • Due to the oversized boot, I developed numbness in my left foot
Links