Visiting Porto, Portugal

Although Inna visited Portugal in 2022, I had only visited Lisbon and Santiago de Compostela during a Celebrity European Cruise in 2003. 

For my upcoming birthday, Inna planned an exciting trip to Portugal, with stops in Porto, Douro Valley, Covilha, Coimbra, and Lisbon. 

Date	Flights	Loc	Hotel	Car rental	Activities
9/20	TAP Portugal TP238 SFO 4:20PM - Lisbon 11:25AM (9/21)				Fly SFO -> LIS
9/21		Porto	Gran Cruz House (Check-In Day) Praça da Ribeira, Viela do Buraco 19, 4050-132 Porto  +351 227 662 270		Train from Lisbon to Porto
9/22		Porto	Gran Cruz House
9/23		Porto	Gran Cruz House
9/24		Porto -> Douro Valley	Gran Cruz House (Check-out day) Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta (Check-in day) Quinta de Ventozelo S João da Pesqueira, Ervedosa do Douro, 5130-077 Portugal +351 254 249 670 hotel@quintadeventozelo.pt	V	Rent a car in Porto (Hertz) and drive to the Douro Valley
9/25		Douro Valley -> Covilha	Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta (Check-out day) H2OTEL CONGRESS & MEDICAL SPA **** (Check-in day) Avenida das Termas 6215-674 - Covilha Telephone: +351 275 330 406 geral@naturaimbhotels.com	V
9/26		Covilha	H2OTEL	V
9/27		Covilha	H2OTEL	V
9/28		Covilha -> Coimbra	H2OTEL (Check-out day) Quinta Das Lagrimas (Check-in day) Rua António Augusto Gonçalves - Santa Clara, Coimbra, Santa Clara, 5053, Portugal +351 239 802380 reservas@quintadaslagrimas.pt	V	Drive to Coimbra
9/29		Coimbra	Quinta Das Lagrimas	V
9/30		Coimbra -> Lisbon	Quinta Das Lagrimas (Check-out day) Torel Palace Lisbon (Check-in day) Rua Câmara Pestana 45 Lisboa, 1150-082 Portugal +351 226 000 815 Call to the national fixed network reservas@torelpalacelisbon.com	V	Drive to Lisbon
10/1			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/2			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/3			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/4			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/5			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/6	TAP Portugal TP237 LIS 9:55AM - SFO 2:35PM		Torel Palace Lisbon (Check-out day)		Fly LISBON - SFO

					Fly LISBON - SFO

Due to the long flight from San Francisco to Lisbon, Inna purchased business-class tickets well in advance to maximize comfort on the 11-hour nonstop flight. She booked a TP238 flight with Air Portugal from San Francisco (SFO) to Lisbon (LIS) for September 20, 2024, at 16:20. 

Friday, September 20, 2024

We planned to drive to the San Francisco airport at 13:00, but I forgot my light jacket, so I had to return home to pick it up.

I drove the Tesla Model Y to SFO's International Terminal, arriving at 14:12, while Alex drove it home. When we arrived at SFO, we searched for a lounge to enjoy complimentary snacks and drinks before our flight. 

The United Lounge (assigned to TAP Air Portugal) was at Gate G, while our flight was at Gate A. We did not want to traverse  TSA security multiple times, so we decided to find a lounge at Gate A. Unfortunately, none of the lounges would let us in. Virgin Atlantic Lounge had a 12:30 cutoff time, and the Golden Gate Lounge was too full to let anyone in with a Priority Pass. The China Airlines looked open but was extremely busy (and we decided to skip it).

We stopped by a Mexican restaurant for lunch, ordering two bowls of chicken, but the food was horrible (but worse than Chipotle) and more expensive, too.

After lunch, we stopped for coffee at a nearby coffee shop and headed to gate A10. Our name was being called, and we stopped by TAP Air Portugal to show our passports. We boarded the Airbus A350 with seats 2H and 3K. It was so lovely to fly business class!

Once seated in the fully reclining seats, I read Alexander McCall Smith's Double Comfort Safari Club." I had previously listened to a part of the story on Audible but decided to complete it on my Kindle.

When the plane departed, and the entertainment system became operational, I watched a series of movies. At first, I watched Ferrari, a biopic about Enzo Ferrari, the founder of Ferrari, and his racing (and personal) troubles. It was not as exciting as I expected.

I also watched  The Bucket List with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman. It was an excellent movie about two terminally ill patients who bond over chemotherapy and decide to make a list of all the things they want to do before they die. While dealing with serious health problems, they try skydiving, hiking in Nepal/Tibet, going on an African safari, and visiting Hong Kong.

Our business-class seats had excellent cabin service, though the dinner and breakfast were not outstanding (as on ITA).

I could doze off lightly during the flight (in my fully reclining seats) and get some needed rest.

Saturday, September 21, 2024

We landed on schedule at 11:10 in Lisbon. I was surprised we had to deplane and board a bus to the terminal. However, passing passport control was fast and pain-free, and we were quickly in the giant airport terminal. There were tons of people and many shops. It felt like being in a shopping mall.

After finding the Uber/Bolt car-sharing area, we tried to order using Bolt, but all our attempts were canceled (by drivers). We usually use Uber in the United States, so we tried using Uber in Portugal. 

Luckily, our UberX request was accepted, and we boarded a BYD Electric car to the Lisboa Oriente Train terminal. The BYD car was quite impressive. It had a huge display and fascinating design features (including large displays and funky speakers). I see how BYD would be a threat to US car makers.

We found the train platform at the Lisboa Oriente Train Station and ate lunch nearby. We found a small cafe and ordered some sandwiches and cappuccinos. They were nothing special, but the prices were very reasonable (12 euros for two sandwiches, two cappuccinos, and a bottle of spring water).

We arrived at the Porto Campanha Train Station and ordered a Bolt to our Gran Cruz House Hotel. We boarded a Renault and were dropped off near our hotel. There was a lot of traffic and many people nearby. 

We eventually found our hotel, hidden behind all the restaurant tables on the waterfront (overflowing with tourists).

When we checked into our Gran Cruz House, we were offered a sampling of local Port wines. I tried the Porto Cruz Ruby, which I liked. We talked with our hotel receptionist, and he provided a particular set of recommendations to see:

Sights:

• De Castro Gaia
• São Bento Train Station
• Bolhao Market
• Avenida dos Aliados
• Se' do Porto (12th Century Cathedral)
• Clergios Tower (nightly light show)
• Lello Bookshop (signed first-edition Harry Potter books)

Restaurants:

• Adega Dona Antonia
• Terra Nova
• Muro do Bacalhau
• Mistu (our favorite restaurant in Porto)
• Do Norte Cafe by Hungry Biker

We checked into the Ruby room on the 4th floor, with windows overlooking the Douro River. From our room, we could hear the sounds of street musicians below (and the clamor of the many restaurants).

I felt sweaty and fatigued, so I quickly showered before eating at Osteria di Porto. Although the walk there was short—about 14 minutes—it was all uphill, and we huffed and puffed all the way. After sitting down inside, we looked at the menu and ordered the following:

• Appetizer:
• Salad (with all items separate)
• Boris:
• Primavera Pizza
• Local red wine
• Inna
• Grilled Octopus
• Local green wine

The Grilled Octopus was excellent, and the Primavera pizza was delicious. However, I was not too fond of the restaurant's tranquil atmosphere. I would have preferred to hear some live music.

After dinner, we returned to the Gran Cruz House and crossed the Ponte Luis I Bridge to Villa de Gaia. Gaia's scene was less lively than Porto's, with fewer street musicians. 

Here is a video clip of the Beatles' "When I'm 64" on an organ:

We explored the area and stopped at Portuguese Sardine, which had fun-labeled sardine tins from 1954 to 2022. The tins featured different significant events each year, from the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 to the launch of the iPhone in 2007.

For a quick snack, we stopped by Mercardo Beria Rio, where we purchased the following:

• Pastél de Nata
• White wine Sangria (delicious!)

The Pastél de Nata was outstanding, and the white wine sangria was also deliciously prepared. After some more strolling, we returned to our hotel.

Here is what Wikipedia has to say about Porto:

Porto, also known as Oporto, is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon. It is the capital of the Porto District and one of the Iberian Peninsula's major urban areas. Porto city proper, which is the entire municipality of Porto, is small compared to its metropolitan area, with an estimated population of just 248,769 people in a municipality with only 41.42 km2 (16 sq mi).[1][10] Porto's metropolitan area has around 1.8 million people (2023)[1] in an area of 2,395 km2 (925 sq mi),[11] making it the second-largest urban area in Portugal.[12][13][14] It is recognized as a global city with a Gamma + rating from the Globalization and World Cities Research Network.[15]

Located along the Douro River estuary in northern Portugal, Porto is one of the oldest European centers, and its core was proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996 as the "Historic Centre of Porto, Luiz I Bridge and Monastery of Serra do Pilar". The historic area is also a national monument in Portugal.[16] The western part of its urban area extends to the coastline of the Atlantic Ocean. Its settlement dates back many centuries, when it was an outpost of the Roman Empire. Its combined Celtic-Latin name, Portus Cale,[17] has been referred to as the origin of Portugal, based on transliteration and oral evolution from Latin.

Port wine, one of Portugal's most famous exports, is named after Porto since the metropolitan area, particularly the Vila Nova de Gaia cellars, was responsible for the packaging, transporting, and exporting of fortified wine.[18][19] Porto is on the Portuguese Way path of the Camino de Santiago. In 2014 and 2017, Porto was elected as the Best European Destination by the Best European Destinations Agency.

 Sunday, September 22, 2024

I awoke at 07:00 to a loud alarm I had set the day before. After showering, shaving, and dressing, I waited for Inna to get ready, and then we walked downstairs to floor 2 for our breakfast.

We decided to sit indoors since the outside weather was cold and cloudy (with significant street noise). After looking at the à la Carte menu, we decided to order the following:

• Appetizer:
• Croissant and small rolls
• Cheeses: Azores, Cottage Cheese, Goat Cheese
• Ham: Iberica Ham
• Boris
• Omelette with tomatoes and mushrooms (served with tomatoes & mushrooms on the side)
• Cappuccino
• Inna
• Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Salmon

After breakfast, we walked a few blocks to Carris Hotels on Rua do Infante D. Henrique, where we ordered a Bolt car to take us to Parque e Jardim da Fundação Serralves.

Inna had pre-ordered tickets to Yayoi Kusama's exhibition. We arrived at around 10:00, before the crowds, and were able to walk around and enjoy all of the beautiful paintings and sculptures.

After we finished, we exited the museum and walked around the beautiful gardens, stopping by to do a Tree Walk.

Once we finished with the park, we ordered another Bolt car to take us to Do Norte Cafe (by Hungry Biker). After waiting for 10 minutes, we were assigned table 32. All of the staff spoke Portuguese, English, and Russian, and we ordered the following items:

• Drinks: Hot Tea, cappuccino, Lemonade, Water
• Shrimp Salad
• Savory Waffle with egg, hummus, and salmon

We enjoyed our Savory Waffles and Shrimp Salads! Service was quick and friendly, and we were surprised that everyone spoke Russian.

After lunch, we met our Harry Potter tour guide, Vinicius Otaviano (from Brazil), at the São Bento Station (between train platforms 3 and 4). He was holding a small magic wand. He took us around many sites in Porto where J.K. Rowling lived and worked.

Inna had reservations at Livrario Lello (where special first editions of J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter books are kept), and we visited the ornate bookstore. It is the most beautiful (and the busiest) bookstore I have ever visited. We purchased a fancy version of J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone.

Our Gran Cruz Hotel made dinner reservations at Adega Dona Antonia, a few minutes away. We arrived and were seated in the downstairs cellar. After reviewing the menu, we ordered the following:

• Appetizer: Mixed Salad
• Boris: Veal, White wine
• Inna: Octopus, White wine

Inna's Octopus was fantastic - tender and delicious (and not chewy). However, my veal was a bit tough. It should have been more tender.

After dinner, we decided to walk to Torres dos Clerigos, where a daily light show is played. However, when we arrived at 21:00, we learned that the last show for Sunday was at 21:00. We decided to try returning the next day at 21:45 for the previous show.

While wandering around, we heard loud fado music and saw some dancers. We investigated and noticed a large stage with people seated in chairs, all outdoors. It looked like a free display of local fado, and we sat down to listen. It turned out to be an excellent show with three separate fado singers. I especially liked the last female singer, who sounded professional.

Here is a short video clip:

We stayed and listened for one hour (until the show ended at 22:00). It was a rare, unexpected treat to see an excellent fado show for free!

Monday, September 23, 2024

We were exhausted from the previous day's activities and woke up late, at 08:30. I took a quick shower and dressed. We walked down two flights to our usual prepaid breakfast at Gran Cruz House. We were the only patrons in the restaurant and were quickly served fresh orange juice along with fresh rolls and croissants.

We ordered the following items from the à la Carte menu:

• Appetizer: 
• Cold Cuts: Iberico Ham, Turkey Ham  
• Cheeses: Azores, Sheep, Ricotta Cheese
• Boris: Pancake with Honey & Ricotta, Cappuccino
• Inna: Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms and Tomatoes, Cappuccino, Hot Tea

After breakfast, we walked to the nearby Palacio da Bolsa. Unfortunately, the 10:45 English tour was already sold out, so we purchased the 11:45 tour. Since we had over an hour before the tour, we visited the nearby 12th-century Porto Cathedral.

We purchased the tickets (3 euros/person) and entered the cathedral. We expected to see a long queue, but there was none (perhaps it was closed for restoration). There was not much to see in this ancient cathedral. We climbed up the towers with a beautiful view of the city below. After taking photos, we returned to the base of the cathedral and explored the surrounding area.

Eventually, we decided to head back to Palacio da Bolsa. We checked in and waited for our tour to begin. Our English-speaking tour guide began at 11:45 and led us through several chambers of the palace. The last room—the gold-leafed Arabian-style room—was the most impressive.

After the tour ended, we stopped by for a bite of Pastél de Nata and a bottle of water (for 2 euros)! The Pastél de Nata was so delicious! Since Igreja de Santa Clara was closed until 14:00, we decided to skip it and continue to see Capela das Almas da Santa Catarina. This church had beautiful blue-and-white tiles covering the walls. The nave was short, and actual worshippers were praying inside.

From here, we walked to the nearby Majestic Cafe, which was ranked among the most beautiful cafes in Portugal. We queued up to get in and waited for our turn. Once seated, we ordered French Toast (highly recommended) and two black teas. Initially, we thought about ordering a typical lunch. Still, the online reviews were unfavorable (except for a few specialty items like French Toast), and we did not think the high sandwich prices were justified. We liked our French Toast, and our tea was excellent. The cafe reminded us of the many Viennese Cafes we had visited, with its rich, luxurious interior and mirrors.

We decided to eat a standard lunch at the nearby Mercado do Balhao. After walking a few minutes there, we were impressed by the quality of the produce, the market's cleanliness, and the reasonable prices. We ordered a small sandwich for 3.50 euros. It was not bad (though I would have liked something more spicy).

There were many mushrooms, vegetables, meats, and fish for sale. Everything looked fresh!

Inna discovered an excellent cafe nearby — Delta The Coffee House — that also baked Pastél de Nata. They were freshly made and coming right out of the oven! Who can resist that? She ordered two lattes, a croissant sandwich, and two Pastél pastries. The two Pastels were fantastic!

Once we rested briefly, we decided to head to the Crystal Palace Gardens. I ordered a Bolt car, and we were quickly driven there. We walked around the gardens, taking photos of roosters, peacocks, ducks, and other birds. We liked the grounds and the beautiful vegetation. After walking around and inquiring about the concerts that were playing there, we headed to the entrance to get our Uber to our next destination—a marina for our upcoming sunset cruise on the Douro River.

We had real difficulty getting a taxi with both Uber and Bolt, as there was a strike and a lot of rush-hour traffic. We managed to snag an Uber car, arriving about 7 minutes late. We boarded our small Bavarian sailboat, and the captain started the engines.

We cruised to the Ponte Luis I Bridge, but had to turn around because of its low clearance (our sailboat had a very tall mast). From there, we sailed into the Atlantic Ocean. While on the boat, we were offered wine, port, and some small snacks. The wind was light, and the motor sail was relaxing, with excellent weather and visibility. We were fortunate!

The crew shared some interesting facts about how the port-making companies operate. They all moved across the river from Porto to Gaia to avoid paying taxes. They thought that Sandeman made the best port.

For dinner, we asked the receptionist at Gran Cruz Hotel to make a reservation at Mistu for 21:30. It was later than we intended, but it was the only time available. After walking about 10 minutes from our hotel, we entered and waited to be seated. Once seated, we were offered the Tapas menu, and we ordered the following:

• Appetizer: Bread with 
• Drinks: Sparkling Water, Hot Black Tea
• Tapas:
• 3 Scallops
• Oriental Salad with Duck
• Sea Bass
• Dessert: Dulce de Leche Fondant

The Oriental Salad with Duck was excellent (and a generous portion was provided. The Sea Bass was also quite delicious. The scallops were tasty but relatively small (I expected them to be larger). The Dulce de Leche Fondant was exceptional, too (though we waited a very long time).

Porto Trip Review

Highlights

• Visiting Serralves in time to see Yayoi Kusama's eclectic art exhibit
• Dining in a trendy Mistu Restaurant
• Tasting Pastél de Nata pastries at Mercado Beria Rio and at Delta The Coffee House
• Following the Harry Potter tour of Porto, with stops at:
• Majestic Cafe
• Lello Bookshop
• Sailing on the Douro River and watching the sunset
• Strolling through Crystal Palace Gardens
• Visiting the ornate rooms in Palacio da Bolsa
• Listening to Fado
• Tasting different port wines in the Gran Cruz House, including:
• Ruby (my favorite, by far)
• Blanco
• Rose

Lowlights

• Dealing with jet lag and general sleepiness
• Did not have time to visit the light show at Torre dos Clerigos

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Hiking Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park

After many years, we returned to Felton to hike in the beautiful Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park. Inna decided to follow the river to the Cathedral Redwoods.

We followed the Pipeline Road (which parallels River Trail) from the parking lot to the Cathedral Redwoods, a small grove of giant sequoias. It was a pleasant day to hike among the giant redwoods.

 

Here are my Strava statistics:

We stopped by Chocolate in Santa Cruz for a delicious lunch on the way back. We ordered the following items there:

• Drinks: Hot Apple Cider (delicious)
• Inna: Greek Salad with cold-spiced Salmon
• Boris: Chicken Pot Pie with Greek Salad
• Desserts: Hot Chocolate: Frida, Belga

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Hiking Sawyer Camp Trail South in Burlingame

Inna and I decided to try walking a new trail in Burlingame. She heard that the Sawyer Trail South is an easy, paved trail along the Crystal Spring Reservoir. 

We arrived and parked our Tesla near the trailhead. The two-hour round-trip hike was straightforward, and we managed a breakneck pace (3/5 miles/hour).

It was a straightforward, enjoyable hike, and we hope to do it again. There were many hikers and bikers on the trail.

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Hiking Alma Trail in Bear Creek Redwoods

Inna and I tried hiking the Alma Trail in Bear Creek Redwoods, nearby, to burn some calories and explore nearby trails.

This was a moderate hike with significant elevation gain (1469 ft). We enjoyed the hike, but Inna was a bit tired.

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Hiking Castle Rock

 After a long time, we decided to hike in Castle Rock State Park in Los Gatos.

When we arrived, we were surprised by the large parking lot, which had been converted from gravel to a fully paved one with many paid parking spaces.

The hike started from the parking lot, heading south toward the waterfall and westward.

It was a moderate hike that required some rock climbing, but not too much. There was plenty of shade, and we were not significantly exposed to the sun.

The loop we chose took about two hours, with some huffing and puffing on the uphill sections.

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Ride from Palo Alto to Filoli Gardens

I was offered a chance to ride from Palo Alto to Filoli Gardens, and I decided to give it a shot. Initially, I was looking for a gravel bike for the long ride, but I did not want to pay $150/day to rent a bike at Summit Bicycles.

My Specialized FSRS-Works is not the ideal bicycle, but I made it work. When I arrived at 11:30 in Palo Alto and parked at the Car Garage on 350 Sherman Ave, I realized my bike's brakes were not working well. The rear brake was completely non-functional, but the front brake still worked. I decided to proceed as is since Summit Bicycles explained that bleeding both brakes would take some time.

The ride was quite smooth, with a few uphill sections. It took us about 70 minutes to reach Filoli Gardens, where we turned around.

 

After we returned to Palo Alto, I dropped off my Specialized FSR mountain bike at Summit Bicycles to have the brakes bled and the drive chain replaced.

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Celebrating Alex's 22 Birthday

For Alex's 22nd Birthday, we decided to treat him to dinner at ASA Los Gatos, nearby. After arriving at 19:15, we sat down indoors and ordered the following items:

• Drinks: 2 Raspberry Cream Sodas, Lemonade
• Appetizer: Burrata, Truffle Fries, Croquetas de Jamon
• Alex: Carbonara Pasta
• Boris: Paella Entree
• Inna: Mushroom Pasta
• Dessert: Chocolate Chip Cookies, Vu Ice Cream

Our dinner was excellent, and we especially enjoyed the Truffle Fries, Mushroom Pasta, and Paella.

 

 

For presents, we purchased the following for Alex:

• Apple 2024 MacBook Air 15-inch Laptop with M3 chip: Built for Apple Intelligence, 15.3-inch Liquid Retina Display, 16GB Unified Memory, 512GB SSD Storage
• Italo Pro Tube | SwellTech skateboard

The laptop was to replace his older 2020 Apple MacBook Air 13 with 8GB of RAM. He needed a laptop with more memory and a larger screen.

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Mrs. Doubtfire at Orpheum

The musical closely follows Mrs. Doubtfire's plot, but no one can replace Robin Williams. It was a well-acted performance at the Orpheum Theater.

2023 North American Tour and London Production

Act I "That's Daniel" – Lydia, Miranda, Daniel, Ensemble "I Want to Be There" – Daniel "I Want to Be There" (Reprise) – Daniel "Try a Little Harder" – Daniel "Make Me a Woman" – Daniel, Andre, Frank, Ensemble "What the Hell" – Lydia, Natalie, Christopher "The Mr. Jolly Show" – Mr. Jolly, Ensemble "So Long From Mr. Jolly" – Mr. Jolly, Ensemble “Easy Peasy" – Daniel, Ensemble "I Want to Be There" (Reprise) – Daniel "The Mr. Jolly Show” (Reprise) – Mr. Jolly, Ensemble "About Time" – Daniel "Rockin’ Now" – Daniel, Frank, Andre, Lydia, Christopher, Natalie, Ensemble

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Relaxing at Incline Village, North Lake Tahoe

For the July 4th weekend, Inna made reservations at the Hyatt Regency Resort in Incline Village, Nevada (North Lake Tahoe).

Thursday, July 4, 2024

At 10:00, we loaded our Tesla Model Y with our bags and set out on the long drive to North Lake Tahoe. Traffic was not too heavy, but I felt extremely sleepy and tired. On the way there, we stopped for coffee and lunch at The Pour Choice in Auburn. We ordered the following brunch items and rested while waiting for the food to arrive:

• Appetizer: Pretzel Braids with mustard
• Boris: Hot Mocha, Biscuit Breakfast Sandwich with Sausage
• Inna: Hot Latte, Sparkling Lemonade, Loaded Salad

I liked my Biscuit Sandwich, though it was small. The Pretzel Braids were lovely, too. Inna really enjoyed her Loaded Salad. My mocha was delicious and helped to keep me awake.

After lunch, we stopped by the nearby Tesla Supercharger to charge our Tesla to 80% (our battery was down to 34%)  and continued our drive to Incline Village in North Lake Tahoe.

On arrival at Hyatt Regency, we unloaded our bags and had the valet park our car (self-park was full). We explored the area, walking to the nearby private beach and hiking trails.

At 18:30, we walked to dinner at the Le Bistro near our Hyatt Regency Hotel, where Inna had made prior dinner reservations. After searching for Le Bistro, we found it hidden behind the main buildings.

After checking in with the hostess and being seated indoors, we patiently waited 20 minutes for service. We were thirsty and eager to get started (so that we would have adequate time for the upcoming fireworks). However, there was only one waitress, and she was busy with other tables. We grew impatient and decided to try another restaurant. We left Le Bistro and headed to Fumo, a nearby restaurant. We do not recommend dining at Le Bistro (if you are in a hurry).

We stopped at Fumo and were seated outside, though service was slow. However, we were provided with water right away. We ordered the following dinner items at Fumo:

• Appetizer: Beet Salad
• Boris:  Cherry Hibiscus Kombucha, Burrata Sliders
• Inna: Mountain Mojito, Rack of Lamb
• Dessert: Strawberry Short Cake

I liked the Beet Salad, and my Burrata Sliders were excellent. Inna's Rack of Lamb was also delicious.

After dinner, we returned to our Hyatt Regency to prepare to watch the July 4th fireworks at the private beach.

The private beach was packed, but we found a nice place to sit and watch them. The fireworks started at 21:30 and were not too bad.

Friday, July 5, 2024

I woke at around 07:30, showered, and dressed. I made coffee in our room's coffee maker and waited for Inna to shower and dress.

We decided to bike around the area and stopped by the Big Blue Bike Rentals shop just outside the hotel. Inna chose an E-bike and loved riding it along the East Shore Trail to Hidden Beach, Emerald Cove, and Sand Harbor Beach. I selected a regular sports bike, which was tolerable but lacked a front fork suspension (expected for a bike in its price range).

As Inna wanted to eat breakfast, we biked for 10 minutes to the Drink Coffee Do Stuff coffee shop. I locked the bikes while Inna queued up in a long line. We waited over an hour for coffee. It was a big waste of time (as I don't eat breakfast, and we were losing precious morning hours when the temperature was more relaxed).

We decided to bike the East Shore Trail and started our long ride to Sand Harbor, stopping at Hidden Beach, Emerald Cove, and a few scenic viewpoints along the way. The lake was beautiful, with clean, transparent, emerald-green water everywhere.

After hiking around Sand Harbor (and learning about the annual Shakespeare Festival from July 22 to August 8), we stopped by the local restaurant, but it looked too busy (and we did not queue up in the long line).

We biked back along East Shore Trail, stopping at Tunnel Creek Cafe for lunch and drinks. We were starving and thirsty. As I locked up the two bikes, Inna queued up in another line (but we did not have to wait long). We ordered the following items for lunch:

• Boris: Yerba mate (too much sugar), Hoss Burger (with 2 4-oz patties), salad 
• Inna: Green Tea, East Shore Cheese Steak, salad

After lunch, we decided to hike along Tunnel Creek Road to see the famous Monkey Rock. It was a steep uphill climb to an overlook of the Monkey Rock. We were exhausted by the hike, though the return way down was much faster and easier.

We stopped by for a few more drinks at the Tunnel Creek Cafe, ordering the following:

• Boris: Iced Mocha, green tea
• Inna: Iced Mocha, green tea, lemonade

From Tunnel Creek Cafe, we decided to bike along Lakeshore Boulevard to see the famous mansions of the billionaires here. We biked along the lake but couldn't tell which homes belonged to the ultra-wealthy.

We biked back to the Hyatt Regency and dropped off our bikes. We spent a few hours on the beach, savoring the beautiful weather. We managed to find some umbrellas and chairs that were unoccupied. Both Inna and I brought our Kindles, and I read and relaxed.

At 18:45, we returned to our room, changed out of our swimwear, and headed to Fuma for dinner. After being seated at an outdoor table, we ordered the following items:

• Appetizers: Wedge Salad, Wild Mushroom Brie
• Inna: Blackberry Cooler, Rack of Lamb, Hot Tea
• Boris: Cherry Hibiscus Kambucha, Burrata Dinner Sliders

Though service was not especially fast, we were prepared to wait, as we had brought our Kindles to read. The Wild Mushroom Brie was quite delicious, as were my Burrata Sliders and Rack of Lamb.

After dinner, we stopped at Cool Mess for ice cream. We ordered a cup with 2 scoops of Rocky Road and Espresso. It was expensive ($8 for 2 scoops) but no better than Häagen-Dazs from Safeway.

Saturday, July 6, 2024

We woke later, exhausted from the previous day's activities.

After stopping by for mochas and pastries in our Hilton's coffee shop, we decided to walk along the East Shore Trail and explore the hidden beaches. It was scorching out, and we found a few places with shade.

Along the way to Sand Harbor, there were many hidden beaches. We stopped by one for a few cold drinks and at a beach. We thought about swimming, but the water was quite chilly and crowded.

We returned to our Hilton Hotel and rested by the pool.

For dinner, Inna made 18:30 reservations at the Lone Eagle Grille on the private beach of the Hyatt Regency. After sitting down and looking at the menu, we ordered the following:

• Appetizer: Ahi Poke
• Boris: King Salmon
• Inna: Seabass
• Dessert: Baked Tahoe

 The Baked Tahoe was sweet and delicious!

The entrees were well-prepared, but nothing extraordinary. Service was fast and efficient (much better than other Incline Village restaurants).

 

Sunday, July 7, 2024 

I woke at 06:45 to get ready for wakeboarding with North Tahoe Wakesurf & Charter. I hoped for Inna to join me, but she did not sleep or feel well enough at night.

 

I made a small cup of dark roast coffee in our room's coffee machine and put on my swimsuit. I got the Tesla Model Y from the valet and drove 20 minutes to Carnelian Bay, parking at the following address:

5000 N. Lake Blvd

Carnelian Bay, CA 96140

I parked my Tesla Model Y and met with Moose Halpern on the boat pier. After slipping into the Bodyglove wetsuit, I was ready for wakesurfing.

Here is a video of my wake surfing:

 At first, I tried wakesurfing on a 5'8" longboard and had good success surfing on this board. I then tried a shorter version of the board. It was more responsive but also more unstable. I surfed on this shorter surfboard for the rest of the session.

 

I spent two hours wakesurfing and getting more comfortable surfing the boat's wake. I did not have time to ride real wakeboards.

The overall cost of the two-hour wake surfing session was $700 + tax (very expensive).

After my session, I returned to the Hyatt Regency Hotel at Incline Village. Inna was waking up and feeling a bit better. We packed our bags and decided to grab breakfast downstairs.

We checked out of the Hilton and picked up our Tesla Model Y. The staff at the Hilton charged it for us (even without asking), which was very thoughtful. We started our drive home with a stop for coffee at The Pour Choice in Auburn. It was a scorching day, and cold mochas helped me stay awake.

On the way home, there was heavy traffic, and we also needed to stop for a few minutes to charge our Tesla Model Y at the Tesla Supercharger in Pleasanton. 

Lake Tahoe Trip Review

Highlights

• Wakesurfing with Moose Halpern of North Tahoe Wakesurf & Charter.
• Biking along Tahoe's East Shore Trail to Hidden Beach, Emerald Cove, and Sand Harbor Beach
• Hiking Tunnel Creek Road to see Monkey Rock. A short but very strenuous uphill hike with fantastic views of Lake Tahoe and Monkey Rock.
• Terrific Independence Day fireworks at Incline Village
• Dining at Fuma was pleasant (though service was slow)

Lowlights: 

• Slow, unfriendly service at Le Bistro, Incline Village (avoid!)
• Very long lines for coffee at Drink Coffee Do Stuff (we waited over an hour for coffee)
• Crowded beaches during the July 4-5 holiday

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2022 Mazda Miata Grand Touring

I have been looking to replace my 2008 Toyota Sienna Limited with a newer vehicle for a long time. My vehicle requirements were as follows:

• hybrid engine (to lower fuel costs)
• space to carry a mountain bike, windsurfing gear, and surfboards
  
• AWD/4WD for ski trips to Lake Tahoe and Mammoth
  
• low maintenance costs
• excellent long-term reliability
• price of $50,000 or less new (or used with an extended warranty)
  

I started my search over two years ago, during the COVID-19 days. At that time, Toyota Sienna availability was sparse, and I was added to a waiting list (to avoid paying above MSRP). 

 However, no one ever called me back!

In May 2024, when Alex graduated from Northeastern University, we decided we needed an additional car. We resumed our search and looked at a few possible vehicles:

1. 2024 Toyota Sienna Limited AWD
• Positives
• Hybrid 4-cylinder engine without turbo (better reliability)
• Impressive gas mileage (35 mpg)
• Lots of cargo space for holding gear
  
• All-wheel drive (great for going to Lake Tahoe in the winter)
• Negatives
  
• Low vehicle availability
• Most dealers are charging $5,000 - $10,000 above MSRP
• The price was over $55k for the Limited AWD version
• Old-fashioned instrument cluster (looks low-tech)
  
• None available to test drive
• Slower acceleration due to the hybrid powertrain. 
• Very long braking distance
  
2. 2024 Toyota Grand Highlander Hybrid Limited AWD
   
• Positives
• Newest large-panel navigation
  
• Massive storage (great for carrying people and gear)
• Negatives
  
• Limited availability for the Limited Hybrid AWD trim (though turbo versions were more common)
• High price for mid-level interior quality
• Drives like a minibus
• Recent problems during collision tests (stop shipments on vehicles to fix airbags)
  
3. 2024 Kia Telluride SX
• Positives
• Lovely interior with an excellent 12" instrument cluster
• 291hp V6 engine
• Excellent driving dynamics, but very light steering
• 3-row seating
• Plenty of cargo space
  
• High ratings on Consumer Reports
• Negatives
  
• Multiple reliability problems have been reported by owners, so it may not be a good long-term vehicle
• Too many confusing trim levels
  
• Vehicle availability is spotty
• High insurance cost
  
4. 2024 Honda Pilot
• Positives
• Cavernous space
• Honda's reliability with a non-turbo V6 engine
• Reasonable price
  
• Modern instrument cluster
• Negatives
• Huge size
• Unexciting to drive
  
5. 2024 Infiniti QX60 Sensory AWD
• Positives
  
• Luxurious interior
• Excellent controls
• Plenty of space
• Lovely 3.5-liter V6 engine
• 3 rows of seating
• Negatives
  
• High depreciation (low desirability)
  
• Acceleration lag (hesitation when pressing the gas pedal)
• Unimpressive audio system
6. 2024 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4WD 
• Positives
• The finest Toyota build quality from Japan's Tehara factory
• Proven 10+-year-old design, with many vehicles, lasts over 350,000 miles
• Lots of trunk space for bikes and windsurfing gear
• High availability at Toyota dealerships
• Tried and true V6 engine (2024 is the last year of the V6)
• Proven 4WD system for winter driving to Lake Tahoe
  
• Negatives
• Front-end dives during braking
• Very old-fashioned interior 
• Feels cramped inside (despite the large size)
• High price (though discounts are available)
7. 2021 BMW X5 XDrive40i
• Positives
• Excellent acceleration (using Xdrive40i 350hp twin-turbo engine)
• Beautiful exterior design
• Excellent driving dynamics
  
• All Wheel Drive for winter driving to Lake Tahoe
• Modern 12" instrument cluster with Apple CarPlay
• Multiple high-tech features like lane assist, parking assist
  
• Negatives
• Poor long-term reliability
• High cost of maintenance
• Need to buy a Certified Pre-owned (CPO) vehicle to extend the warranty
• Turbo engines require lots of upkeep
• Limited Trunk Space
• High depreciation
  
• High auto insurance cost ($1070/6-months)
8. 2024 Acura MDX SH-AWD with Technology Package
   
• Positives
• Excellent driving dynamics
  
• Good non-turbo V6 engine
  
• Modern 12' instrument cluster with Apple CarPlay (without touch support)
  
• Excellent long-term reliability
• Reasonable maintenance costs
  
• 3 rows of seats with lots of trunk space
  
• High safety ratings
• Low insurance cost (compared to BMW X5)
• Negatives
• No touch user interface (fixed in 2025 model); must use the touchpad
  
• Mushy brakes with long braking distances
• High initial depreciation
  
• Long warranty (CPO certification extends warranty by 2 years)
9. 2016/2022 Mazda Miata GT/Club
   
• Positives
• Excellent driving dynamics
  
• Quick-shifting 6-speed manual transmission
• Modern but small 7" instrument cluster with Apple CarPlay support
  
• Excellent reliability
• Fits in our tiny garage
• Excellent fuel economy 
• Convertible top
  
• Negatives
• Two-seater (roadster), no space for 3 or 4 people (unlike Mini Cooper)
  
• Hard to get in and out of
  
• Lackluster acceleration (compared to BMW X5 Xdrive40i or Tesla Model Y)
  
• Limited trunk space
• Noisy (soft top does not cut out road noise)
  
• Stiff suspension (feel every bump)
  
• Poor Apple CarPlay implementation (when playing Spotify during Apple Maps navigation, Apple does not lower the volume for music but cuts it off in the left speaker)
  

Eventually, we decided to look for a 2021/2022 CPO BMW X5 Xdrive40i, as Inna was enamored by the vehicle. It was her dream car. However, none of the BMW X5 Xdrive40i offered by local dealers (BMW of Mountain View, Fremont BMW, Stevens Creek BMW) were ready for sale; they were all undergoing BMW CPO certification (which can take many weeks).

During this time, I was looking at Autotrader and saw an ad for a 2022 Mazda Miata Grand Touring with low miles. I have always wanted to drive a small manual car, and this Mazda Miata could fit in our garage alongside our Tesla Model Y.

On Monday, July 1, 2024, I met Sam (the owner of the Miata) after work. I was impressed by the car's mint condition. It looked new, beautiful, and well-cared-for. 

After discussing it with Inna, I decided to make an offer on the 2022 Mazda Miata. Sam accepted my offer, and now I am the proud owner of a 2022 Mazda Miata Grand Touring edition in red. Since my 2008 Toyota Sienna Limited minivan still runs fine, I postponed replacing it. 

Registering the car took a little work, but my local AAA Almaden handled all the paperwork, including title transfer and registration.

I checked the tires, and they were at the limit of their life. I ordered 4 new Michelin tires from Costco and installed them (it took about 1 week for them to be delivered to the Almaden Costco warehouse).

• MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 205/45R17 BSW ULTRA HIGH PERFORMANCE

• 
   

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